HowlerMonkey

I have been using one from a Z31 but had trouble with it because the Z31 manual just copies the section from the 280zx manual.......which was not correct even in the 280zx manual. Also.....the 300zx timer looks different. I used the schematic supplied in the 280zx manual and followed the board traces through the components to determine the correct pin out and now it works. Luckily, the manual being wrong caused no smoke when connecting it that way........It just did nothing. It works correctly with the wiring on the right side of the diagram.

If you pour oil into the pan (off the car) outside the trap doors (and far enough away such that the pouring energy does not affect test) , does it easily push them open? Since pressure is measured in vertical inches of a liquid, how many inches of oil level does it take to open them? Not a critique......we have a very similar setup on some very high hp mustangs in our shop.

If the engine is sludged up, running ATF will liberate all of the sludge at once which might not be a good thing. If your oil comes up really dirty, do two oil changes within 500 miles. Then check the oil after running it for a day and see if it comes up dirty. If it does, keep changing every 1000 miles until it is clean.

You might also check for a white dot on the modulator. White dot usually means turbo tranny but some have been replaced by now that might not have the dot. Also...the 280zx turbo 3n71b has a larger diameter output shaft.........but the outside diameter of the yoke that goes into the tailshaft housing is the same as in non-turbos.....just a bigger hole.

I just recently installed one on my Infiniti M30 with L28et. Before I installed it, parking the car at the grocery store for 15 minutes and trying to restart was a horrible bitch with mucho missing and popping for about 1 minute until it went away. I guess it depends on the application because the M30 engine compartment does not have a hole directly over the turbo so the heat instead concentrates around the intake manifold rather than passing by it on the way out the hole in the hood. If I'm not mistaken, the 77 hood has vents. Once I added the fan, I no longer have trouble starting the car after a 10 minute hot soak. The timer for the S130 is behind the passenger side kick panel about level with the bottom of the dashboard.

That pattern looks a lot like the pattern of the substance they put on to keep it from rusting while in the box.

The M30 diff. is a little different in that it has a 3/4 inch longer pinion flange that has teeth for an ABS sensor that bolts on the nose of the diff housing. The sensor won't bolt to any other housing but I have swapped a 280zx turbo flange onto one and it works fine. Mine also makes noise and it seems the M30 version makes noise and fails far more often than any other R200. I took M30 axles and they fit a 280zx except for the outer CV having a larger diameter flange....which means you would also need the flanges on the stub axles to go with the axle shafts if you want to mix and match them. I'm not sure if they flanges are the same where they mount to the stub axle and you also have to worry about possibly messing up the bearings if you swap them. http://forums.f31club.com/phpBB3/index.php

Cooling fan on the L28et in the M30 made all the difference. It no longer vapor locks.

Drain tranny and torque convertor, put convertor back on (all the way) and store. I stored one for 5 years....twice...and the frictions got crispy so....if you are handy with snap ring pliers, I suggest replacing the frictions and the modulator once it goes back into the car. It's messy to work on but damn easy to replace just the frictions. I found the O'rings ok and decided not to replace any that required a special tool to compress springs (only one) and it's going strong months later. You can see some information that might be helpful on the thread linked below. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144769

You can take one from most any car that ran a vg30e up to a 2002 nissan quest. At a u-pull yard, it's usually under 30 bucks for transistor and coil and a lot less for transistor itself if you get the right cashier.

Thanks....I will be replacing the "placeholder" L28 in the M30 soon and all of my timing stuff is damn high mileage.

It's possible that the exhaust system is filled with crap that is burning/boiling off or your oil level is way too high though the white smoke usually points to coolant being in the combustion chambers.

I just spent the afternoon tweeking the spring on the front of 2 of my spare fan clutches and found you can really dial it in such that the fan freewheels at your stable operating temperature and starts grabbing anywhere above it. They aren't really optimized from the factory and the bi-metallic spring is pretty brittle but it doesn't take much bending of the spring to have a pretty large effect as to what temperature it comes in. I moved the first one about 15 degrees on a way too tight fan clutch and didn't kick in until the temp gauge was way too high so I tried to bend it back a bit and it snapped. I bent another one about 5 degrees on a way too tight clutch and it's perfect in that you can hear it come in while sitting at the drive-thru at idle but fades after a block or two of 45mph driving and makes no noise at all on the highway. Before, it was so tight that the car sounded like a huge leaf blower and the plastic blade tips actually bent forward from the bite and touched the radiator slightly because of the excessive fan speed going fast on the highway.........it got moved back 1/4 inch as well.

Back bumper gone but engine still complete down to carb setup and air cleaner.

Are those drain and fill plugs? If so, I'll venture a bet that it's the fluid that ages........or seeps out. Crosses fingers hoping that drawing came from a nissan service manual.......because that unit looks servicable with simple snap ring pliers but I doubt seals would be easy to come by. It might be possible that toyota fan clutch fluid could be used. If it is the correct formulation, then toyota offers 3 viscosity indexes.

Never mind......I found it in the FSM. Strangely, text search did not find it in acrobat reader. For the record, it is located in the "B pillar" on the driver's side.......unless the drawing is reversed. Of course, this is the area that gets wet (do you have wet seatbelts?) when the rear side windows become unbonded to the body so... If you wonder why it didn't come in 1987 and later nissans, it is because they went to dual feed injector scheme where the fuel return system allows fuel to flow in one feed and out the other to cool the injectors after a hot soak. Nissan figured out the fuel system modification was far less expensive than the supplemental motor/timer/wiring system and the extra burden on batteries that running a blower 15 minutes after most every run cycle in warm weather causes.

I need one for my M30 with L28et and am having a hard time finding it on the 1985 300zx I have chosen to source it from at the junkyard. Any ideas before I just wade in, remove all the interior panels, and start searching? I'm sure it's near either side kick panel and either above said panels or sunk into the "A pillar" behind other components but it is just too hot here to spend time doing an extended search by unbolting tons of most likely rusted bolts/screws.

Every time I pass up a complete SU induction system on a 240, I later kick myself.

I still had crosshatching on an engine that had 280,000 miles.

I was just at U-pull and pay on benoist farms road in west palm beach and saw a complete (and completely rusted) 240z right down to the non-square top carbs and air filter assembly. It is manual tranny and has the e88 head and has not exeperienced any rain as of 3:00 wednesday (today). I peered through the tinted rear and saw a pair of 3 into 2 into 1 headers in the rear cargo area. Hopefully someone can benefit from this before the butchers descend upon it. http://www.upullandpay.com/Locations/WestPalm/

Remember that the car uses ground as it's reference for zero voltage. If you have a lifted ground, your car will overcharge regardless of how many alternators or regulators are installed. I would check the path from negative battery terminal to body ground and then make sure all wires going to the extrernal regulator actually make the trip. Some common symptoms of a lifted body ground are a jumpy tach and a whining noise when the radio is on and engine running.

Attention Thrustnut. I recently stumbled upon a epic thread which is right up your alley (high performance cars....and planes). Make sure you have plenty of time. http://www.aafo.com/hangartalk/showthread.php?t=5320 For car nuts, it get's to the car stuff on page 13 with stories of mickey thompson and other cool car stuff. http://www.aafo.com/hangartalk/showthread.php?t=5320

The tide has shifted recently to the point that a running LD28 is worth far more than the diesel crank that will just sit until it rusts up before the owner can get around to finishing the stroker engine. Putting a stock L28et turbo setup on a LD28 is just enough boost to wake up the engine and cleans up the smoke pretty well. Great way to get similar to stock performance while getting near 45mpg in the more aerodynamic 280z or 280zx body. The maxima itself shares many parts with the 280zx though it uses the wheel offsets found on S13 and early Z31 4 lugs so it's easy to replace the skinnys with tires as large as 225/50-15 and not worry about rubbing.

Does it actually run without the starter turning it for a couple of seconds while popping and missing?

There is a bi-metallic spring on the front of the fan clutch which turns a shaft that goes into the clutch and varies port opening so the viscous fluid can vary the amount of energy transferred to the fan blades. Yours spring could be stuck in the warm position......or......the clutch has seized solid.