HowlerMonkey

I've recently replaced my water pump because of suspected runout because of a similar noise. When watching the fan (careful)....with the fan at low rpms (cold clutch) and engine at high rpms, I could see the fan running out enough to touch the front pulley (power steering extra pulley). I can also feel more vibration..........but....it only happens when fan is in slippage mode and not when it's tightening up. I'll be trying a variety of clutches to see if that's the problem or whether this problem is runout of the crank pulley being transmitted through the belts to the less robust water pump rotating mass.

A while back, I wanted to supercool the air and enclosed an a/c evaporator....actually many since more than a few had the vanes vibrating an insane amount and one actually had the vanes fold over from the velocity of the air coming in from the turbo. They just aren't made for crazy velocity and you can guarantee that some types would lose vanes or other parts. I guess one could swap velocity for volume further upstream of it and get around possible evaporator core damage but I'm not sure if that would be enough and you would have to add more volume to the "column" or pressurized air causing longer lag times. I used a double pole brakelight switch (cruise control cars have them) and energized the compressor clutch through the brakes to use the A/C system to cool the core. I eventually used a maxima or stanza a/c clutch sensor/controller from the climate control system that would keep the clutch from being energized at crazy rpms. It worked OK but is pretty much only good for a road racing track car where the brakes are used often since the compressor's loading while engaged will negate any HP rewards if it runs during acceleration. Sadly, the extra weight and the fact that most road racing classes don't allow turbochargers means it was more just playing around but......if you only plan to blast the road course for fun in non-sanctioned "arrive and drive" events....it might be fun. The mustang guys are always selling air/water intercooler systems when they swap out the supercharger on thier late model cobra for a turbo system but it might require a bit of work to fit it to a different application. Air/water intercooling works pretty well on the car I am doing some custom parts for......we'll find out october 11th when it competes in the standing mile competition at the "dade collier training and transition airfield" or "everglades jetport" which is a huge airport in the everglades that was intended for the concorde (which later landed an miami anyway). If anybody is interested in seeing an event like this, now might be the time because the super high speeds and lack of sanctioning body tell me someone will crack up pretty badly eventually and these events will disappear shortly. The car is in the center video at the bottom of the page. http://www.milemarker-1.com/

The clicking is probably a grain of sand or other matter between wheel and housing. Blow it out with air (don't spin it up with no oil) and see if you still have the clicking noise.

If you're leaking minor oil, I would first check the drain back to the pan since I have seen many that get clogged causing oil issues.

I'll be dyno'ing a L28 F54 with flattops, p90, and dead stock unmodded mechanicals and turbo blowing through a cat and stock infiniti M30 muffler with the only "mods being a Infiniti M30 ecu and MAF. I will post the numbers at stock boost and boost levels up to 10psi or pinging....whichever comes first.....no intercooler.

The Z32s were accumulating oil in the heads in long turns such that the pcv would sip oil. The Z31 issues I see the most often that lead to failure is heat above 300 degrees.

The spring is pretty damn strong so it will be hard to move. I would undo the hose, the two bolts that hold it on, and the pin that holds the actuator arm to the lever and take out the actuator........or you can use one of the pressure/vacuum pumps and see if it moves when you apply pressure to the actuator port.

A datsun 610 would be cool.

If you're running stock boost or slightly higher, the T28 would be fine since the later Z31 3.0 liter came with T25s.

The fact that he had adjusted the crank angle sensor to it's lowest point and still has 22 degrees might suggest the throttle position switch is not closing when throttle is closed...........or his throttle is not closed. If the car is above the specified idle, the timing will be advanced as well.

Throttle actuation setup is sweet.

It does say "L28 stock internals" but maybe it's got flattops since it doesn't say "L28ET stock internals".

LOL.....I missed that post.

I'm done fricken curving distributors, setting secondary air valve spring tension, swapping metering rods, and playing with float levels. I welcome the new age by poring over mode 6 data on a sweet scantool.

I'll guess you aren't running this on the street in extended running? If you are, does this happen about 5 to 10 minutes into the run cycle regardless of loading? Many sensors can "fail" either at a certain temperature. As the car warms up through that range, the sensor fails to send the proper signal and the ecu ignores it and dumps fuel. When I supported the ecus my company manufacturers, I got 5 calls a week from people that had a car that would run great and suddenly dump fuel just at the end of the warm-up cycle. So I've seen it about 700 times.

Thanks dudes......good idea I hadn't explored.

Quick question.........will I have a difficult time finding the stock shiro white rims? I'm planning on using them on my M30. I've done a couple of searches recently and came up empty but people were just about giving them away a few years ago. Missed the boat?

If you're going to 5 lug, why not embrace the offset required? The offset of the Z31 allows fitment of 5 lug wheels made for a huge variety of cars while a "rear drive offset" with deeper dish is getting rare these days.

I really like the Z31 anniversery edition wheels the japanese market got. Not mine but I will one day own a set of those wheels.

Sounds like his cylinder head temp sensor is either failed or the connector is not making a good connection. It's that injector looking connector near spark plug #5

Actually.....you will have to search a bit nowadays to find 1,1,1 trichloroethane any more. The red can of "brakleen" by CRC is still (I think) the trichloroethane formula. Most brake cleaners have gone to a different formula.........which now burns like crazy unlike tricholorethane........which I used to use to put out fires when welding. Another warning should be that many forumlations of brake cleaner since 1990 or so are very flammable. Of course....I don't use argon but rather C02 for my shielding gas but the warning is duly noted.

How close are those dimensionially to a L engine pan? It looks a little bit like a first generation maxima l24e pan.

It is most definately the shocks. Shocks that don't damp will make for a horribly harsh ride while you can drive on hogged out bushings and worn ball joints and tie rod ends with very little effect on ride quality.

I have 240hoke's adapter and it's so sweet I just display it with the box open showing the sweet hardware it came with. I haven't been able to break my 3n71b yet so mine just sits but I will someday detail doing this to a pathfinder shorty tranny that already has the starter in the proper location.

Make sure your body ground is good. That can cause tach to peg but it's more likely an issue with the tach that other people here are better suited to answer.