jaime240z

The one in your picture is for earlier Zs with the integrated turn signals. You can get that style for your 280z without the holes for the lights. Or you can get the 240 style lip but it will take a little work to swap the lights and a 240 front bumper. The choice is yours.

Well it's not the cheapest route, but you can still get NEW OEM steel fenders from your local nissan dealer. Or call courtesy and order them. Guaranteed perfect fit! They ain't cheap though ~ $250/each

Here's one: This is from a "ZG flare gallery" http://www.geocities.com/coolin550/flare1.html

Yeah ditto on the CF ZG flares. I got a set from MSA and I really wish I had got the fiberglass ones and painted them. I will probably end up painting my CF ZGs now.... They fit nice but not the best finish on the weave pattern. The one good thing I've heard for the CF flares is that they are a bit more frlexable or shapeable than the fiberglass ones. The CFs were real easy to fit and install, however I don't have any first hand experience with the glass ones.

Hey Davy, since you're communicating with th guy making the panels maybe you can realy some questions...? I'm just curious about provisions for the window crank and the interior door handle? Are these still going to be functional? I didn't notice them existing in the pic of the 510 panels? The window crank is not a big deal, but I will definitly need the handle. Thanks.

Thanks for getting this organized, Davy. And ditto what MatMan said for me too!

I haven't completed my install yet but I would imagine the design of your front diff mount would have alot to do with what happened...? Do you have a pic of your front diff mount?

long side of the bushing goes toward the rear.

Hey Davy, is this the same guy from stricktly 510? If so I'm in for a set for a 240z. His 510 panels look really clean and it would be so sweet to have a real home for fron speakers! How soon can I order.

Thanks Mark!!! Z-Gad excellent work, thanks for the link !!!! Man I love this site

Thanks for the replies. Sounds easy enough. The hardest part will be forking out the $150 for a new panel. For you guys who spot welded, did you drill small holes in the new panel or just spot weld at the perimiter? Thanks.

Funny I was just out in the garage trying this very thing. I have the "newer" JTR rad mounts and a Griffin 24x19 rad. And the answer is NO! I think you could with the "older" JTR rad mount which was just the lower mount. The newer JTR mounts are more narrow. The lower mount might be usable but will need to me modified a bit. The newer top mount which mounts in the upper bolt holes will not work. The tanks on the Griffin rad are too big. I learned this the hard way. If you get the newer JTR mounts they should be used with their recommended radiator. Making mounts for your Griffin won't be very hard at all. I really like the way JTR designed the mounts to be used with the stock mounting locations. Very smart. I will be making my own and try to use that design. Hope this helps.

Now I know why these pieces are being reproduced for early Z cars. I removed the panel around the hatch area latch and found alot of rust under there. Has anyone alse bought one of the repair panels from MSA or zedfindings? Just curious how they are welded in? My old one is already removed and I plan on sandblasting the area, repairing any rust damage and using por-15.

Start with the basics: http://www.hotrodair.com/acbasics.cfm

OMG that is hilarious!!!! The Q&A at the bottom is so funny!!!! How did you find that anyways.....?

Thanks for the help guys. I think I got it, and you're right it was simple once I figured it out. There is a diagram of the belt routing on my truck too, which was nice. I did goof and turned the wrong bolt on the tensioner so now I will need to fix that in the morning. Other than that it's a done deal! THANKS!

Thanks. That's what I was afraid of. Now if I could just figure out how to get the new one on there...? I guess neither Haynes or Chilton makes a manual for this truck and I'm not going to spend a ton for a FSM. Why is this so difficult!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK this is not Z related but I'm hoping someone here can help me out anyways: I have an 03 Ford Ranger (...I lknow, I know...) Recently the serp belt made a slight squeak in the mornings, probably from dew, and the noise would go away within a couple of minutes of driving. I should have just left it alone, since it seemed to go away on it's own, once the dew dried or whatever. So I thought it might be a good idea to spray some belt dressing on the belt to stop the initial squeak in the mornings. Boy was I wrong!!! The squeak is now constant and about 100x worse than before. The bottle of belt dressing said it was good for "all types of belts" including serpentine. So I've been trying everything to try and stop this head turning squeak that I have caused. I'm close to just putting a new belt on but the old one is fine, except for the loud squeal. I even tried putting some bar soap on the belt. This makes it nice and quiet for about 5-10 miles and then the squeal comes right back. At least this teels me it's probably not one of the pulleys. I have a new belt in hand but I'm looking for maybe an alternative. I'm also afraid that if I just change the belt, the squeal may still come back. Any suggestions,.....? Thanks

Hey, sorry I'm in the same boat as Mark, still in the works. My car won't be on the road until sometime next year (hopefully) but the finish on the dash doesn't seem like it would glare much in the sun. I have held it in sunlight and I think it will be OK as is from PDK. It would also be very easy to scuff lightly and paint if you desire to. That reminds me, I need to weld up some mounts.................! I believe this may be in ref. to dash for dash weights. If that is true then you will also be able to drop a few more pounds when you lose the HVAC and stereo systems if you decide to go that route. Also, my Autometer Ultra-Lite guages are alot lighter than the stockers.

I have one of those for my 240z. Fit and finish was very nice. I also have PDK's rear strut brace. I spoke with Marc from PDK and he was a real nice guy, answered all of my questions, great customer service! Fit and finish on the dash was good. You will need to fab mounts for the dash. Also, keep in mind this is intended as a "racing" piece. You will need all new guages and the heater controls are (to me anyways) not worth the trouble to retro fit into the new dash. I plan on adding guages and maybe some simple switches instead. Marc sent me a few pics of some installs they did in house. Send them an email and I'm sure they will call or write back and answer any questions you might have. The $100 off special they have right now sounds nice too!

Thanks for not forgetting about me Jon. I'll be waiting patiently I can also pm you my phone number....whatever is easier for your bro-in-law. Thanks!