jaime240z

I saw those on CL too. I was wondering if they are made by a member here? I thought there was a guy here named somthing-Savage....? They do look sweet. I still like the idea of bushings though....

cyrus, this is the company I was talking to you about. They offer replacement parts/pads for Wilwood and other mfr. too. http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com/wilwood.html jaime

Thanks Mat. I think I know what you mean by the clamps. It looks like my harness is wedged pretty good inside the inner wheel well. I think I'll need a stiff wire to help "guide" it out of there. Was yours a pain to re-install?

I'm finishing up the stripping of my car (72 240z) and I'm having problems with the wiring inside the car. I'm trying to pull the harness on the pass side behind the rear wheel well....? Is there a trick to this? If it's this tricky trying to get it out I'm already afraid of tring to put it back in there:x Also trying to remove the radio ant. lead on the driver's side, same scenario..? Any tips, tricks? thanks

I'm having a hard time believing 2 parts of this story...... 1st, a Ford Ranger doing 100mph.....? 2nd, no traffic on 680............ :icon8: j/k.....If this happened to me while driving my Z I would just jump in front of him, step on the gas and give 'em the old Spy Hunter smoke screen!!!

Looks great! What did you use to strip the car? Did you sandblast the ENTIRE car? Awesome progress....man do I need a rottisserie!!!!!

280bob. If you do decide to separate the strut tube from the control arms I would highly recommend getting yourself a new set of bushing and change those out all together.

I STRONGLY agree with jmortensen. However if you MUST separate the two pieces this write up saved me alot of time: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html

Woohoo....My other addiction! I love nitro r/c. Unfortunatley I had to sell my nitro buggy recently (no time to play) but I still have plenty of cars in my stable! Definitely invest in a good temp gun. This will be your best friend when tuning a nitro engine. I've always kept my engines in the 230-250 deg range. After break-in, you will want to start leaning out the high end needle first. Do this with the car rolling on a flat straight surface. Make small clockwise turns to lean it out until you're getting good WOT accleration. Don't worry if the low end stutters or dies. It will do this naturally since the low end is still rich. Remeber to make small moves closed on the needles. I would say no more than 1/8 turn at a time. Remember to check the temp regularly. You will want a nice trail of smoke on WOT. This means the engine is still able to be cooled. If no smoke is visible at WOT then you're probably too lean and need to reset you HSN setting. Once the high end needle is set move on to the low speed needle. Lean it out slowly until your car is snapping off the line without stuttering or dying. It should be obvious when the performance is gets better and better as you lean out the LSN. Once again keep a close eye on engine temps. Finally you will want to adjust the idle. I always set mine a bit on the high side to keep it closer to the power band off idle. Once everything is set give it a good run on a full tank of fuel, checking temps often to make sure it's not lean. IIRC the P5 also has a mid range needle....? These are usually factory set and you shouldn't need to adjust the MSN. You're going to love the P5. I had the RB WS7II in my hyper7 and it was crazy fast. The P5 was to only other factory (non mod) engine that could hang with the WS7II. If you're not already on there check out the forums on www.rctech.net I've found that sight very usefull.

Note to self: Book a Brazilian vaca. for May 9, '06 immediately:burnout:

Did you bleed the system? When replacing as many parts as you did there is a good chance you got lots of air in the brake lines. Bleed the entire system a few times. Also, be sure to bench bleed your new M/C so you can get ALL of the air out. Did you remember to use to correct bleeding sequence? RR/LR/RF/LF One more thing, make sure the bleeders on the calipers are pointing straight up when bleeding. You may need to remove one of the caliper mounting bolts and pivot the caliper so the bleeders are pointing straight up.

OK Thanks. So, would it be best to achieve this by using a drill press? I've decided that using a hand drill is out of the question since the hole angle could wander....?

Thanks, I did consider that option. However, opening up the holes on the alum. hub to accomodate the bigger 1/2" studs would still be necessary. That's really my biggest concern. Is it OK to drill the front hubs to allow the use of bigger studs? Should this procedure be done on a drill press? There was one particular machinist who said he could drill the hubs by hand (power drill) and the studs would "align themselves once the pressed up against the backing"? This seemed a bit risky to me, so I wanted to see if anyone else has done this successfully!

I'm in the middle of assembling all new drivetrain and brake parts on my 240. I'm kind of stuck on what to do here. I have the MML stub axles and I'm using the AZC 5 lug brakes. The rear stub axles have 1/2 ARP wheel studs, Very Nice (which will be used in the rear)! And the AZC wheels have 12mm studs up front. Now, idealy I would like to have matching sized studs on all four corners. I've figured the best way to go is to install new 1/2" studs up front. ( No sense in installing SMALLER studs in the rear, plus the holes in the rear are too big for 12mm studs anyways ) Just wondering if anyone has done something like this successfully? The front hubs are aluminum and will need to be drilled to accept new 1/2" studs. I have called ARP and spoke with a tech there about knurl/length options. I must say the guy at ARP was very knowledgable and helpfull! The tolerances are very tight (within 7 or 8 thousands). Any suggestions? I'm thinking maybe I should just leave it alone and have mix-match stud sizes....

Someone needs to get them to Vinny!!! Could you image those flairs in a perfect carbon fiber mold........

I wonder.....exactly WHERE does the gas nozzle go into.....?

Am I the only one that wants a set of these flairs......?

Does this pic help? http://us.f3.yahoofs.com/users/41bb0a64z9406f34b/e8e5/__sr_/9917.jpg?phylTdCBTGfHzCyv I believe the 4 holes your are referring to bolt up on the car where the oem strap mounts to .....

Congrats on the new Z! You've definitely come to the right place for info on upgrading your new car. 90K on the car is GREAT! For starters, I would purchase the first item on your list, the master set of poly bushings, first. That way you can install the pieces "as you go" or you can do the whole set in one shot. Either way your car will benefit alot from it and you will curse your car and the bushings before you're done:) If your budget aloows it, go with the Tokico Illuminas. You will appreciate the adjustability, especially when you're out on the track. As far as the springs, I would say go with the coil-overs. Ground control and modern motorsports make great kits for the Z car. Once again these will give you the convinience of adjustability for going from street to track use and vice versa. Also, since you plan on using ZG flairs, the use of coil overs will also allow you to use a slightly wider wheel/tire combo by allowing the removal of the stock spring perch. Plus, IMO, it's easier to "tune" the suspension with different spring rates with the coil overs too. Not to mention they look flippin sweet!!! I final got mine assembled this weekend. Depending on how low you wind up going on your suspension, you will probably want to section the struts as you have stated. Try to decide on this before buying any parts, that way you can avoid yourself the hassle of needing to buy 2 sets of struts, which is what I did aarrrgggg. As for the inserts used, do a search, there was a very informative post on sectioning struts recently and I believe there were even step by step instructions on how to do it. Relocating the LCAs will be needed as well, but don't mess with this procedure until all the above has been completed. When doing this I would recommend first having the car's suspension geometry checked first, instead of guesstimating where to drill/relocate. Here are some great threads on these topics: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98315 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85960

Thanks , cygnus1. That's also what I ended up doing. Just wanted to double check. Looks like it should be fine!

LOL! That's hilarious! Now I need to figure out why my multiple went from a 10 to a 25x? And I haven't even started the swap yet:shock:

The answer is there: Curious question. You will hear the answer in the wind, but you must listen carefully

cygnusx1, looking at the pic in the first post, what did you use to connect the park lock with the prop valve? A very small piece of brake tubing? Just curious, I'm trying to do the same install... Thanks

It's funny you mention that Owen. There's a VW shop 2 blocks from my work. I never really paid much attention to it, until I need something that is. I think I'll stop by.........