TrumpetRhapsody

Whoops, answered my own question. It does it automatically when you post the Youtube link as a URL.

I feel ridiculous asking, but is there not a feature to embed youtube videos into your post? I know for a fact it used to work on the Vbulletin site (I see threads with YouTube embedded), but so far I haven't figured out how to do it now on IPB.

Took the Z to a local dyno day this Saturday, and got 4 runs in. Since converting over to the external wastegate I hadn't spent much time tuning my boost controller to see how much of a change in dutycycle is needed to increase/decrease each psi. I started around 16psi and each run I increased it 5%. I was hovering around 18psi by the last run, right where I wanted to be. Final numbers were 315hp and 335tq, not bad! The other turbo cars there were seeing 5-10hp drops on subsequent runs, so even though i gained each run by adjusting the boost controller, I was probably losing 5-10hp in heat. On top of that starting around 5600 rpm I started going super rich, which probably killed my top end some. May or may not have given me a better peak number, but something to consider. From here I think I'll go ahead and rebuild this motor, considering I had no idea I was getting that severe amount of blowby. Also, i found a local guy that will rebuild, port/polish, AND flowbench my head for SUPER cheap. After I get all that done I'm thinking about converting over to E85 to see if it will help with the detonation issues these motors have, and allow me to run more agressive timing. I'm still shooting to break the 400hp mark without running more than 20psi of boost, so we'll see!

It would yeah, but then you'd have no e-brake. IIRC the Z32 uses the drum style e-brake.

No, the idea here is to NOT have to upgrade your mustache bar, LCA brackets, diff mount, and diff to run the R230. The goal is to KEEP the R200, which is plenty strong for most of us.

Alright guys, I'm tired of the astronomical costs associated with upgrading the rear end to handle a decent amount of power. 280zx axles are old tech, and prone to failure. 300zx axles are better, but require $500 center sections not to bind. Either way, you still have a weak stub axle that will be next in line to go. By the time you get billet stub axles and upgraded axles you're looking at around $1700 minimum. TechnoToyTuning and several others have come up with the R230 upgrade, but I feel like that diff is overkill for 90% of the people on this forum, not to mention the even higher cost of sourcing those parts and all the adapters and upgrades associated with it. Basically you won't do much better on cost that way either. I intend to take the backing plate T3 has designed for their R230 upgrade, and use it to run 240sx hubs, wheel bearings, AND axles with the R200. The 240sx diff side stubs are 29 spline, so there should be NO EXPENSIVE ADAPTERS needed for this swap. All you'll need to do is shorten the CV center shafts, something most capable axle shops will do for about $150. An additional bonus is that you'd be able to use the 240sx SE hub to swap to 5 lug if you wanted. The only caveat is that you'll need to convert to the 240sx rear disk setup (or any of the 240sx rear brake upgrade options), something most of us do or have done anyway. So the parts list should be: T3 Backing Plates - $550 + coilover/strut option 240sx Hubs, Wheel bearings, axles, side stubs - $200-500 depending on whether you buy new or source used Shorten CV center shafts - $150 I'm currently coordinating with TechnoToy to see if/how this can be pulled together, so i'll update you guys as I make progress. I'm hoping they can set it up where you have the option of choosing between retaining stock-style strut tubes, or coming with a coilover sleeve ready to accept the common Megan or GC coilover upgrades. Hopefully the final product will be significantly cheaper than existing options, and modernize our rear ends. Let me know what you guys think, and wish me luck!

During a cruise about a month ago my radiator fan stopped working. After doing some checking around I concluded my e-fan had given up the ghost. I'd always meant to upgrade, so I went ahead and ordered a lower amp-draw fan and a 3 row aluminum Koyorad. The Koyo's don't come with a drain plug for some reason, so I had the guys at work tig me on a bung to throw one in. Last weekend I swapped all of that in, finally wired the fan into megasquirt for automatic control, and after tracking down some leaks and such it works like a charm! I can't wait to see how this thing performs in the summer, but from the way the temps drop when the fan comes on I think it'll do a great job. Funny thing is, I found out it was a bad relay the whole time... whoops! This weekend I took the warm weather opportunity and got some projects out of the way I had been sitting on. After some modifications I swapped on my Hawk HPS brake pads, to hopefully combat the bad brake fade i'd been getting. I also finally put on my rear stainless brake lines (already did the fronts awhile back) and flushed/bled the system with 200* Super Blue dot4 brake fluid. Hopefully this will improve my braking until I can afford to do a proper brake upgrade. Aside from that, I did some minor aesthetic tweaks/adjustments and washed my engine bay and wheels. Yay productivity!

Bringing this back from the dead. Just thought i'd mention that unlike the above specs, this radiator DOES NOT come with a drain plug. I'm having one Tig'd on. I'll post up a review once I get it installed and put a few miles through it.

Back from the dead. Since I got this working last march, it's slowly gone downhill. The tach started bouncing around once I got to 4k or so, that point shifted around for awhile, and now anywhere from 3k+ just goes nuts. I don't know if those diodes are burning out or what the story is, but i'm going to try for Z-Ya's original circuit. I was going to try the MSextra suggestion, which is like Z-ya's but uses an actual output and a relay coil, but I'd rather venture into charted territory instead. I'll update once I get around to this.

Forgot to mention a fix I did a month or so ago. Without going into the whole narrative of how it happened, found out that the fusible link to maxi fuse conversion can't handle the juice long term. Either that or I just got unlucky with a not-so-solid connection to one of the fuses. My fuse block melted, and I had to come up with something better. I took this opportuinty to do a much cleaner install. I went ahead and stripped the harness all the way back to the dash connectors, and stripped out the stuff I wasn't using anymore. Shaved probably 10lbs of crap out! I replaced the maxi-fuse block with a MIDI-fuse block. These guys bolt down, and light up when they're blown. A bit hard to find fuses locally, so I'll have to keep some extras around. I also took the opportunity to re-do the stock wiring a little, beefing up the battery to block and alternator to block wiring. I couldn't believe how wimpy and bizarre the stock setup was. The electrical system is MUCH improved now. Before: After:

Bought a gas cap, should be good to go. If someone has the parts lying around to convert to the 280z style filler/cap, I still might be interested.

Somehow managed to lose my gas cap, don't want to pay the $60-80 i'm seeing them for online. Anybody have a spare kicking around? Either that, or thought about grabbing the filler neck and related hardware to just convert to the 280z thin style, so I can use a cheap $20 locking cap. Thanks!

I would rather get a forged version of the RK-R in our sizes, personally.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback!

Can you talk us through some of your Accel Enrich settings and why you arrived at them? Specifically: - Why the .8 accel time vs .2 stock? - Why no decel fuel? - Why 40% map instead of mostly TPS? - How smooth do you feel you have accel tuned? To the point you don't even think about tip-in issues, or still have the occasional hickup? I know I won't be able to take much from your actual rates, since MS2/extra calculates them differently, but the PW's are at least a good indication. Thanks for the tune!

Well the Z is back from the bodyshop, and the result is... satisfactory. Some of the gaps are still a touch wonky, but at least the front end is straight now! I'll probably spend some more time, or have him do a little extra tweaking before the paint goes on in the next few months. BUT, all 4 wheels/tires and flares are on, and boy does this booger stick! Sadly I had to dial the caster back to 3.8 to get everything to clear properly, but oh well. I'll get some pictures taken when I get her cleaned up more. So, on the tuning front I've made some progress. I finally realized why my idle VE numbers were so low, and my high KPA's so high compared to everyone elses. Multiply map! I've had mine set to "don't" or off this whole time, no wonder I've had such a terrible time getting the car to idle properly, and this is probably why I've been getting such mediocre gas mileage. With multiply map off, 1% VE change equates to about a 12% change in pulsewidth! Once you run the equation you can see how it gives me great tunability in the upper ranges, but honestly they're less sensitive to change anyway, so turning multiply map back on and retuning will give me a much smoother idle and cruise.

Guess I might as well take some time for an update. I skipped Branson this year. Had a lot going on, and just didn't feel like I'd done enough on the car to warrant shuffling everything going on to make the trip. Next year will be a good year though! I figured it was time to get my boost under control, so I ordered a JGS wastegate and had the guys here at work help me get it welded together. It was a 3 or 4 fit-and-try affair with some re-dos, but after I got my boost controller re-plumbed properly so I wasn't hitting 20psi boost cut and blowing off couplers, it held a rock solid spring controlled 15 psi. It felt amazing! Once I tweak the EBC I'll shoot for holding around 18psi for now. I also borrowed a really nice welder about a month ago and finally got to mounting my flares. The left rear was a bit of a hack job, but I got in the groove on the right side. Left front went well, though I had to dial my caster back A LOT, which sucks. Oh well, because not real race car lol. The right front everything fell apart, and the body damage really showed. I couldn't get the flares anywhere near symmetrical and not hit the FLARE with the wheel. So, I swapped back to my skinnies and drove the Z to a bodyshop. Going to get the front end fixed once and for all, and finally start getting the car looking more legit.

Pics of the finished product? I'm in the middle of converting mine as well. The shop is wanting to tap a fitting into the manifold to weld to instead of welding directly to it, I figured I'd give that a shot and weld as a backup.

I'm just running some Lucas 80w-90 gear oil. Never had any wear issues. Some folks like to run redline products. Bottom line is it's not terribly critical like with some clutch-type LSD's.

So I'm revisiting this whole circlip issue, since on decel even after upgrading to the latest Rbryant washer stack I still get grinding on decel, and the occasional clunk. In this case, I think my slack is resolved, but my passenger side-stub is rubbing on the diff. I see above that Cygnus says the circlip locations are both the same depth, so I'm thinking I might try getting another set of stub axles and running two long ones. Anybody have a donor set I could purchase?

Got some stuff done on the Z this weekend. Since Branson is coming up quick, I figured I'd better start knocking stuff out. About a month ago my speedometer stopped working, so I did some troubleshooting and figured out that my drive pinion had seized in its housing. Luckily they were smart enough to make the pinion's plastic gear softer than the transmissions plastic drive gear, so after picking up a spare from a local Z buddy and I was back in business. Added bonus, this one actually matches my rear end gearing, so I have an accurate speedo now! While I was down there I noticed that my passenger axle had popped out of the diff by about 1/2" I guess that explains why it felt like the diff loosened back up after about a week of driving it. Popped it back in and it feels as tight as the day I installed the new washers. I'll have to keep an eye on it, and if it does it again check the circlip to see what's going on. I also installed the new metal shifter bushing Flatblack and I ordered for our trannies. My $40 ebay short throw had loosened up over the period of a few months, and I assumed it was due to cheap tolerances. Apparently the stock nylon bushing had just worn loose then dropped off, so with this new one in there it's nice and firm again. Aside from that, I fixed a stripped exhaust mount bolt that was causing the exhaust to rattle, and ghetto rigged the cheap ass stereo I have in there so the face-plate doesn't lose contact with the unit anymore. Was a really nice drive this morning with all that stuff fixed Before Branson I need to fix my exhaust leak, hopefully in the next few weekends I'll be borrowing a welder so I can get my flares mounted and my wide wheels on, and while I was up with that Z friend he gave me a stock windshield wiper bottle... so depending on time I may throw my methanol injection kit on and bump up the boost

You know actually, I do have a scope... I just haven't learned how to use it properly yet xD I'll play with the deadtime first, then give doubling the VE's a try, though my max VE values are already in the 180 range. I wonder if my pw resolution is high enough to warrant doubling the VE resolution... *ponders*

I've always been surprised too, kinda always figured something might not be right but it's always run well enough not to mess with it. Now I'm in the "thinkering with my tune" phase where I start messing with stuff I should just leave alone xD My injector specs are: Deadtime - .9 Volt Corr - .2 PWM - 30% Time Thresh - 1.2 PWM Period - 50 I've been wary to deviate from the recommended /calculated Req. Fuel, especially since so many others seem to run at the 7.2 level with these injectors, but now i'm thinking it might be worth playing with.

Hate to bump an old thread, but the search engine isn't feeling very generous tonight. I'm running 2 squirts alternating with 440cc injectors, 7.2 req fuel, and I idle around 1.6-1.8ms pulsewidth with VE values of around 6-10. Not very much wiggle room or resolution down there. Has anybody experimented or come up with something conclusive on this and I'm just missing it?

Picked up a 7" Galaxy Tab to run Shadowlogger, and it's awesome! I highly recommend this guys, it adds GPS location and speed, and g-force per direction and cumulative. I was worried about the GPS not being accurate, but it is! This is going to be amazing on the track. The GPS plots in MLV and you can color it by any value available. This gives you a map of your track that you can evaluate with: - Speed as you go around the track - G-forces in corners - AFR to see if bumps/corners are affecting your fueling - TPS to show if your foot is betraying what you think you're doing There are all sorts of new possibilities! I've attached a map of my morning commute as an example, with speed as the color coding (Z-axis). You can clearly see stoplights!