TrumpetRhapsody

Just off the top of my head.... that's still waaayyy too much timing between 100-185kpa. Needs to drop at least 5* across the board lol

Just finished installing the Fidanza 10lb flywheel and Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and took it for a test drive. The lightweight flywheel surprisingly seems to have made the car easier to drive, I love it. I got this clutch lightly used so I'm going to take it easy for a bit, not knowing fully the condition it's in. I had a bit of a scare along the way though. With all the stuff I bought from this guy, he sent me a new throwout bearing collar that was longer than the one I was (and am) using. Of course in my infinite stupidity I forgot about it until I had the trans mated to the motor and almost done. I tried rotating the driveshaft with it in gear with the clutch fully depressed, and I could hear and feel the clutch dragging on the flywheel. I debated shimming the slave rod, but ended up adjusting the length of the master rod, and it seems to work fine. Engagement is about halfway through pedal travel.

+1 for adding a date. Trumpetrhapsody -------74 260z--------240sx 5spd----------N/A-----------15.196@89.73mph ---- 5/29/09 I was the left lane every time on the scan, and Flatblack280 was in the right lane every time. Between this being my first time drag racing, and the fact that my clutch was eating itself alive, my RT's and 60ft times were horrid.

Rattle can flat white rustoleum:

Haha! I love that hill

Crappy video I threw together... I need to do it right with a decent DV cam, i'm just lazy. You can't even hear the turbo, which definitely isn't TTL lol.

You were running the stock smaller MC with vented toyotas and 240sx rears? The pedal effort wasn't too much?

FS5W71C is the code.

Hmm... well I know the fuel cell is overkill, I just want it As for the lines... my 260z was originally carburated, and I was under the impression that the lines used for carbs were too small to properly "support" EFI, even in comparison to the 280z lines. On a side note, I think I need to work on how I drive the car. When I was re-tuning for the new pump, I noticed that I was getting a lower PW cruising around town between 2000-3000 rpm than I was cruising below 2000 rpm. I guess this means I've been "lugging" the engine and using more fuel... I only get about 14-16mpg around town. The motor just sounds better cruising around in 3rd than it does in 2nd between 20-40mph, but I guess it's not as fuel efficient that way *shrug*

Long overdue update... A few weeks ago I got fed up with the dangly boost gauge I had double-sided-taped to the steering column. I picked up a Autometer gauge pod (the standalone type) and mounted it to the steering column, and I'm VERY happy with it. Yesterday I installed a Walbro GSL-392 (255), and it's seeming to make quite a bit of difference. My duty cycle is way down, and the top end just seems... stronger and smoother. I don't think my NA 280z pump was doing the trick, heh. One of these day's I'll need to upgrade my fuel lines and do a fuel cell.

Pull the center console (the vent region, should be 4 screws) Remove the weird shaped brackets that the console centerpiece bolted to (2 screws on each side) Remove the big black vent duct that those backets held back ( be prepared to replace the foam lining it) Remove the screws up under the gauges (one each) on the L shaped black rubber coated L peice holding them in. The gauges drop out the back.

Pip/saw is for EDIS.... he's not running EDIS.

The L67 is the common supercharged 3.8L in the FWD W-body cars. I missed the part about about the cougar, my mistake. The 3.8 is a sturdy reliable motor, saw someone recently running one with Megasquirt My roommate has similar mods in his W-body to what you're looking at doing, and he's estimated at just over 300whp, so 360hp might be doable if you're talking about at the crank. To get that at the wheels you'd need a pretty dang small pulley, and an intercooler to support it. Should be a fun project!

The air regulator allows a higher idle to be obtained when the car is cold. Running a hose from the valve cover to BEFORE the throttle body shouldn't be an issue, but if it's AFTER the throttle body it would definitely cause some problems.

So are you going to use the L67 fwd block and just run it rightways, or modify one of the RWD variants to be SC? It would be interesting to hear that whine coming from a 240sx lol

Moderation

Ordered a set of "skuff" plates from Courtesy Nissan, only ones they have. They fit, but the bolt holes don't line up. I'll just drill new ones, but thought everyone should know.

So to clarify, this has a ground coming straight from the battery, to a central piont on the body where everything else gets grounded, right? AKA no using the frame or block as a ground source?

Sounds good man, congrats! What bov is that?

I guess I'll just try a set of these: [url=http://www.courtesyparts.com/skuff-plate-1970-1973-240z-260z-280z-p-569011.html?cPath=shoppingcart][/url]http://www.courtesyparts.com/skuff-plate-1970-1973-240z-260z-280z-p-569011.html Only $30 after shipping, not bad.

IMO MegaTune is easier to make major changes and get the car running initially, but TunerStudio is much nicer to dial in your tables. The graph representation is much nicer than in MegaTune, and the 3D rotation really is helpful for smoothing things out. I don't know if it's the location of things, or the feel, but I'd be afraid to ONLY use TunerStudio. Something just feels... safer about MegaTune. That being said I haven't used MegaTune on my car in months.

Thanks, I'll check with them. Can't remember if I already did or not.... My late 260z uses the straight style, no notch. IIRC MSA had the notched, but not the straight *shrug*. Yeah I played trumpet for 8 years, I haven't touched it in about 4 years though . I figure I'll pick it back up when college isn't a distraction.

All the dash caps I've seen butt up against the front of the gauges, as in the dash cap only protrudes into the hole half way, and the gauge takes up the remaining half. If you install the gauges from the rear (from the inside of the dash), it shouldn't be problem. I'm running a full MSA dash cap with no problems.