PanzerAce

I'd never heard it till I went over to the LD forum in preping for my LD28(T) swap, but apparently it's a pretty common feeling. They tend to get pissed when they see a LD maxima in a yard, go for the engine, and discover some Z guy has already nicked the crank

Woops, yup, put it down to posting that at 3 in the morning I'd ask how much you wanted for one of the S20s, but I've got my own line on one that should be available in a year or two (which is when I'd need it, anyways).

I'll probably do that eventually, but for right now this car gets the quick/easy fix of re-soldering stuff. When I get my LD28T project up and running, the current DD Z is going to get a metric crap ton of work done to it, including redoing all the wiring while dropping an...interesting...engine into it. edit: Quick and easy isn't because I like the option, infact if I had my way I'd tear out the current lights, get some nice HID projectors mounted, and run with those relayed. But considering I need my Z to be night driving capable every....single....night, means that upgrades have to wait.

If you ever get pulled over with that setup though, god help you. to the TS: They aren't that common, and the "crank pirates" (as the Diesel maxima community calls Z guys) make them more rare every day. They are essentially bullet proof though (as most old diesels seem to be). It wouldn't be uncommon to get a LD powered maxima up to ~300k on the clock without major problems.

Well, if we're talking about Prince engines, if you can find a Prince G8 or Nissan S20 engine, grab it with both hands and don't let go

That's MAG58. His M104 head + L28 block project is on hold while he builds a M104 for his Z. Just search for Mag58 in the thread title and you'll find his thread.

Yup, AFAIK it's the same as the 280. Found the problem already though, turns out that the soldering material holding the yellow/red (or is it white/red, hard to tell with age) wire onto the switch had melted enough that it had flowed onto the red always hot wire. I just need to find a soldering gun, melt it, scrape them apart, then re-solder the yellow/red wire in place.

Another thing that I don't think has been brought up is that for a given engine size, more cylinders = smaller CCs, which promote more complete combustion, and can be cooled more effectively which also allows for more timing advance (or higher compression), both of which can lead to higher power outputs.

I think the LSx is as close to the universal engine as possible. I can't really think of anything off the top of my head (within reason, not a P50 or something) that you couldn't shoehorn a LSx into...

My fluid level never dropped after I swapped thermostats, and It's going on probably 1.5k miles, and I haven't even had to top it off. Idles normally, drives normally, etc.

So my headlights can't be turned off right now on my '73, though they'll go off if I unplug the connector (red/yellow, red/white, red/black, if I recall) going from the control stock under the dash. My running/interior/rear lights all work as normal though. I'm still trying to track down if this is an electrical issue, of if the switch in the stalk itself is broken. Anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of problem?

You have no idea. Sure, there's *alot* of idiosyncratic stuff in the way the engine was setup that I'm not entirely happy with, but after doing the math and figuring out that I only paid about 300 for everything outside the engine bay, I'm pretty damn happy

Given an equal starting point, I would say go with EFI, without a doubt. I love my triples to death, but when I rebuild the engine, the Mikunis are going to get cleaned up and put into storage. They can be hard to tune, VERY temperature sensitive (especially with more agressive cams. You don't aim for a idle RPM so much as an idle RPM *range*. Also, you aren't going to get a goot triple setup for 600 bucks unfortunatly. Last set of triple mikunis I saw for sale was ~1500. You're also going to be looking at spending around that much for a good ITB EFI setup (though you'd still have to get a fuel tank, new fuel lines, etc, etc, etc). Also, while you might like the shorter stroke of the L24, with modern con rod bolts and the additional power per cylinder, the L28 will be just as rev happy.

Non Z? 1) BMW 2002 with the MB 2.3-16V Cosworth engine with some help in the breathing section. Unfortunatly, the other two 'hybrids' I want aren't cars 2) Lancair IV-P with a turbo LS3 and a four or five blade CSP (depending on final power). More power than the propjet version at full throttle, and way cheaper to maintain and build. 3) S-38 (or anything over it, really) series Schnellboot with modern engines and systems. I do find it funny that my choices go from well under two tons, to over 80 tons...

How'd you find it? Just browsing ebay all day? And make sure to post pictures. I've only ever seen a very few pics of them....

Same thing happened to the PO of my Z, but he never fixed it. Which meant I got a Z with a 10k mile Rebello engine that had never gone WOT

Why hello there...

What's the problem with the engine right now? Not trying to get you off of EFI (I'm going to be swaping to it myself when I get the money and build my other Z), but it seems like you might atleast want to get the current engine setup running first.

Opposite side of the street? Some econo box. If you meant the red thing parked in front of my house with the sunroof, it's a POS oldsmobile (or buick....doesn't really matter, prime descriptor is 'POS' in this case) that my housemate's gf used to drive.

Nobody knows the size? And thanks for the link cygnus, but unless I can figure out the size, looks like that site wont help

Nice, but personally I find that Bing has better birds eye views (The blue one is my Z). They haven't updated the pics since...last winter I think it is, so my new '78 doesn't show up on it yet

What's the stroke on the 3.2 crank? Is it as heavily built as the diesel?

I don't think Nissan is worried about 350Z sales anymore And I agree that they need an entry level Z, but I can't think of an engine that they could put in it that would let it feel very sporty. a VQ would be nice, but then there's nothing entry level about it, and the fourbangers just wouldn't cut it...

TBH, I'm not even sure what it ever looked like, since I only noticed I was missing it when I was driving at night, went to turn the mirror to night mode, and the knob wasn't there. Found the knob in the passenger seat, but the screw/bolt is MIA, and god knows how long it's been gone.

Yah, pretty wierd wording, but I can't figure out what else to call the little screw that holds the rotating thing onto the bottom of the mirror on a 240Z that switches the night/day modes. I apparently lost mine at some point in the past, and I was wondering if anyone on here knew where to get a replacement... thanks in advance.