PanzerAce

Didn't get a price, he was going out the door when I called him, and it's a rare enough request that he didn't have a price handy. But from what he said, most likely the same or less as the six would have been, so 350 or less.

Mag, lemme know if/when you want one of the Getrag 717.404s. My buddy can hook it up Also, keep us updated on your cams, the cam source I had finally was tracked down; turns out he got out of the business a few years ago because of the economy.

Auto: ratsun, NICO, Nissan Diesel, and a couple others that I registered on way back when, asked a few questions, and then never went to again. Non auto: Relic News, WME, 1C, ubi.com, OT (first rule....)

Stock cam on a L31? that's going to be an interesting feeling . TBH, I'd say skip straight to EFI, but that's really up to you. I think most carb retailers have online calculators for engine size and carb sizing.

If I had the money, I would have been outside the C4C centers to buy any nice cars that didn't deserve to be junked.

If my LD28 swap was on the road and running, you'd have sold them already

I'll hit up my buddy, see if he has any idea why And remember, it only makes them expensive to rebuild/modify, it's no more expensive for them to build most likely.

Mag, how consistent in width are the journals on the crank? Does it seem like it could be turned into an "either/or" deal, where you can index location from either big or small end, or are we forced to use the small end? It obviously works given the mileage that these engines see, but I have to wonder why they did it that way...

Yah, best way to start a carb car (especially triples I've found) after a *long* sit is to floor the throttle (so that you don't have to work against a vac), crank for ~10 seconds, foot off the throttle, then crank a few seconds more (and blip the throttle if you need to)

Cool. When you get back, gimme a list of the transmissions you're looking at, and I can get prices/power ratings on them.

.....you *really* should have said that, since my buddy that can get us the deals on the transmissions has a couple of big benz sedans and coupes that he's planning on selling this year. And are you ever on AIM? Trying to figure out some M104 stuff

What Tony said. After *long* times sitting (or not so long during the summer), my issue is that there simply isn't any gas in the carbs. Running *just* a mechanical pump (and not having the starter systems hooked up) means I have to keep cranking for awhile before the cylinders see any gas at all. If the car hasn't been sitting for that long though, it fires right up like most people expect. @thread starter: What we really need to know is *when* you're having trouble starting the car. Cold engine that's been sitting for a few days? after it's warmed up? when?

I'm running the mech fuel pump with my Mikuni 44's, never had a problem running. Only issue is if the engine sits for awhile and the gas evaporates out of the carbs, it can take 10-15 seconds before the engine will fire on startup

Shhhh...don't give bob any ideas... Or me for that matter....I *do* have that '78 that's going to be a diesel anyways....

How long does it usually take to start up your car? I know mine sometimes takes a good 10-15 seconds of cranking depending on how long it's been sitting (triples + mech pump, gotta wait for them to fill enough before it has enough power to turn itself over). Does the engine not want to turn over? Or does it just keep cranking for awhile before it catches?

Who's is that anyways? I don't think that's the first time I've seen the picture....

So as a general question, what's the best way to vent the crank/head if we *can't* have manifold vac? In my case, I'm thinking about my LD28(T) swap, and the problem I've seen mentioned occasionally on this site of positive crank pressure reducing turbo life.

It's....epic, really.

I only use it through my tank (kinda hard to do it through the intake with triple mikunis, unless you *want* to start unbolting everything). While in theory its probably find to run it through the sump, I follow the school of thought that says only oil should go into your oil sump

I love the stuff. Alot of auto parts stores only stock the newer (and in my opinion, worse) injector/carb/tank/line cleaners, but walmart stocks seafoam.

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Short version: no. IIRC, the L26 is basically a L24 with the L28 crank.

1) You should probably ask on a 240SX forum, not a 240Z forum 2) Beyond that, your best bet is probably going to be to call up the organizing body that does the safety tests, or call your DMV analog and find out. I would *not* recommend lying on the registration and whatnot, but if they don't *ask* for anything more than a make/model, *and* it won't affect you down the road, you don't have to volunteer anything. That being said, why would you want to drive something like that on the streets anyways?

Congrats man! Always fun the first ride in your own Z. And I know the experience of people asking if you're willing to sell. I get that about once a week on my DD Z, and (untill the tarp went on it), about once a month on my shell.

Jeebus.

If the jetting is for a L24 and not L28, then it sounds like you're running out of fuel at the top.