PanzerAce

Seriously, call Rebello. Great people to talk to on the phone, and more than willing to help. They probably have forgotten more about building L series engines than many people will ever know.

When I was changing my oil this week, I noticed that each of my Mikuni carbs had a metal tube of some sort coming out the bottom. Two carbs had the tube ends capped, but the forward one was not. I couldn't find any info about this in my Mikuni service manual, but I was wondering if this could be what is causing my engine to start missing and eventually die on me after I idle for awhile (only once the engine is warmed up though). I'll try to get a picture if that would help. Thanks for the help guys.

Or you could have gone to the forum specifically for the L engine, and seen this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106960

There was a guy on ebay selling L series long blocks. Maybe talk to him about just getting a bottom end?

I didn't say it was on stone tablets. But especially with modern cars, ICs tend to be as small as they can be to still operate reliably. Obviously, the design of the engine comes into play as well. But if we take it as a given that most ICs on factory cars are designed specifically for the application they are being used on, they become the limiting factor on an engine that they are grafted to. Either you can't push as much psi, or the air that you are pushing is not cooled as well as it would be with a different IC. Obviously, internet wisdom is generally worth what you pay for it, but if I was doing an L28et build right now, I would probably spend the extra money to get not only an unused IC, but also one that is good beyond the power that I am actually looking for (though that also has to do with the weather I would be driving in). Actually, thats another factor. The weather that the OP is going to be driving in can also determine IC size. If they are going to be running this car in say, the middle of the desert during the summer, for a given whp number, he is going to want a larger IC. But if they are running north of the Arctic Circle during the winter, they can probably get away with a smaller one. Ok, thats weird, this feels exactly like another post I made at some point on a different forum about IC sizes....

Also, another thing to consider. The SRT-4 put out ~230hp at the crank. You are going to be probably putting down ~350 at the wheels eventually. The rule of thumb on using other car's ICs is never go with something designed for LESS hp then you are going to be running. Hell, I put down 230hp at the wheels NA....

Looks nice, but I wouldn't want it. I'd be afraid to get it dirty. Plus, while the original engine might be nice, I like having about a hundred more at the wheels than those things claimed to have at the crank.

Nice car.

Well, if you are serious about getting a stroker motor done, give Rebello a call, since that is basically all they do it seems.

I've heard running Megasquirt with the right tune can get you high 20s gas milage while cruising... But I feel yah. I've had a low of 10.3 mpg, and a high of 18 since I got my car. 18mpg was on the highway at ~80mph

Another '73 owner checking in. I would say look into upping that 2.8 into a 3.0/3.1/3.2 engine. Where in CA are you located?

Sounds good man. Keep us updated.

FYI guys, an AMSoil by-pass setup adds two quarts to the amount of oil needed. Thank god I bought two cases of 6.

You get 87 for 3 bucks? Do tell. Out here I'm feeling pinched with 91 at about 3.89

I believe the point of the Mercedes/BMW comment was that if we make a head, we should use an intake port design from Mercedes/BMW that has manifolds available that will bolt up to side-draft carbs as well as FI, depending on what the owner wants to do.

yah, mine can read b/w 0 and 1/2 tank depending on which direction I turn and how fast.

heh, my car wanders and jumps, but thats mostly because of a really stiff suspension setup. (and I think a wheel that isn't balanced after I dented it...)

you probably aren't going all the way to empty *shrugs* I know that I usually re-fill mine when it indicates 1/4 of a tank left, and I've put in anywhere from 7 to 9 gallons on that.

To bad. Cause if there were, we could also get complete engines

Six shooter, in addition to what you just said, there is also the fact that it isn't like RB26 heads are a dime a dozen.

it doesn't look like it would be all that difficult to replicate that setup...

You could always call Rebello and talk to them as well, especially if you have the engine serial number, since they would most likely have written it down somewhere. http://rebelloracing.com/ Also, I believe that their 3.0 motors are bored to that displacement, especially considering the redline and hp/tq distribution. Their 3.2 and up engines are stroked as well I believe. Is it just the block, or is it also a head? Like I said though, call Rebello. They are great guys to talk to. If you are ever out in the central valley near Merced, drop me a PM and I'll show you my Rebello 3.0

Those fan units look nice. The previous owner put a speaker setup in the back in the box, so I should be able to mount one or two of them there...

so is there basically no way for us to get a 1-piece head of the style you have, sans valves, cams, etc?

wait, so if we have basically everything needed to start making this head, why are we all debating what to base it on? Or am I missing something?