letitsnow

L28ET Stock T3 Full exhaust 800cc injectors Walbro 255 Fuel Pump Megasquirt evo 8 intercooler Peak power 270rwhp @4500 10-12ish psi, we did clean up the top end a little later on, but I don't have that chart. Based on feel, power stayed pretty flat from 4k-6k. Peak torque 340rwtq @ 3800 18ish psi These results were corrected for atmospheric conditions, measured, with no correction was about 20 lower for both numbers. At this time the turbo was in very poor shape, it made noises on boost that a turbo should not make. About 4 months later it got so bad that you could look at the compressor nut and rev it and see the wobble, it was bad. This was about all the boost it would make,we kept turning it up until it wasn't really going up any more. In this configuration it ran 12.6 at 108mph in the 1/4 mile at about 500ft elevation, that was with a 'soft' launch on street tires, with a best 60' of around 1.79sec. On drag tires with a 2 step I think it would have either broken axles or gone 12.0-12.3ish. Weight without driver was around 2550. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHhqUfYoh0k 3rd run is the best by far

I don't think you mentioned how long it was taking you to wear out a set. The last set I had was 2 years old, daily driven in the summer (had probably 30k+ on them) and autocrossed pretty much every weekend (with 2-3 drivers) on a 2850lb without driver street tired car. It made peaks of about 1.35G and was steady state around 1.15-1.25G on a race capture pro mk2. This set was still in good shape when I took them off. If you're not getting that kind of life out of them, I'd be looking hard at points that might be causing bind. Look at the spherical in the camber plate, look at the spring mounting. Next I'd be looking to make sure your gland nut is perpendicular to the strut tube. If the threads aren't perpendicular then the gland nut will force the upper bushing to be not perpendicular, which will cause bind and wear in the bushing. I made my housings for the set mentioned above and cut the threads on a lathe to ensure everything was square. You might be able to put a different strut in and have it live, but when you do, I'd make sure of the above at the minimum, otherwise you may still have somewhat of a problem. All that said, on the next race car I'm building, an SMF Honda, I'll be using 46mm bilsteins because they can achieve the valving I want and the twin tube Konis cant. The monotube konis are expensive and only a couple of places service them. Also, I was talking to someone with an F prepared 240z at solo nationals this year that had built a 'bolt on' SLA front suspension, that was really cool. He had to weld in some bracing and drill some holes, but he could switch back to McStrut as he pleased.

I'd play with the shocks some, either down in the rear or up in the front.

You said you ran 10psi, if your boost controller was holding the wastegate open you would have trouble making that much, or at least the boost curve would look funky. I don't think the wheel is choking you yet, I'd look into the tune. With a STOCK turbo, intercooler, MS2, and exhaust I ran 13.4 at 101 at 6psi and 12.6 at 108 with 18psi(falling off to 10psi by redline).

Ok, that makes good sense, my take on 'set it to 65%' is that it's a good place to start, then adjust to preference. I just wanted to make sure you weren't taking about something like durability or some other factor I hadn't considered.

I'm curious where you get this number, my math suggests that on a 2500lb Z with 50/50 split the should be right around the magical 65% of critical at 325lbs. I'm using them with 200/225 springs, I like how they ride, I'd rather they were digressive, but the ride is alright still. They come out to 70-75% of critical by my math.

This spreadsheet is just a basic calculator of ride freqency and damping ratio. It cannot account for motion ratio, it was originally a quick sanity check for my Z, with the assumption that the motion ratio was close enough to 1. I have a more advanced spreadsheet that can calculate ARB's for given roll rates and springs etc, however I need to go over a lot of the math in it as I think there are some errors. I'm not ready to post it publicly at this point, but I'd be willing to send it to you after I take a look at a few things. I zipped it because hybridz won't allow .xlsx files to be uploaded directly. Edit: Just realized I labeled ride frequency as rad/s in the spreadsheet, it's actually in Hz. It's fixed now. Damping Calcs.zip

I'm using LS1/truck coils on my turbo engine in a wasted spark configuration. It doesn't get revved very high, but it's a relatively simple setup and I haven't seen many problems with it. I got the coils for free, you can find them on ebay for ~$80/set used and have a few spares. They take a 5v TTL signal, so as long as your ecu can output that(If it can do COP, it should) you'll be fine.

I wrote my own in excel and the results were close and reasonable in my opinion, unless his has broken in the past couple months. 65% of critical is a relatively easy calculation to make. As an example, my unrevalved bilstein p30-0032's with 200lb springs and the (incorrect) assumption of 25% of 2700lbs on a wheel are damped at 75% of critical in rebound.

I don't have anything useful to add about the oil system, but I do about searching HybridZ. The built in search engine SUCKS, it's bad, don't use it. This site is indexed by google and completely searchable via google, google's search engine is very good. To use it go to google, type "site:hybridz.org" then whatever terms you want to search for. You can also use googles search modifiers to search for phrases, exclude words, etc. https://support.google.com/websearch/answer/136861?hl= Here is an example search for "dry oil pan" https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahybridz.org+dry+oil+pan&rlz=1C1PRFC_enUS516US516&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+dry+oil+pan&aqs=chrome.0.57j58.9450j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The rear suspension gains camber in bump, right? I'd want to avoid that while drag racing. Lots of drag specific shocks are 90/10 front and 50/50 rear, equal compression and rebound rear and MUCH more compression than rebound in the front. I believe it's trying to get the front to raise, and relying on the rear suspension geometry to influence the rear. Lots of the solid axle cars will use significant anti squat geometry that will actually cause the rear of the car to *rise* as power is applied. If I were doing it, I'd start front at full soft and rear at full hard, then play with launch technique to avoid hitting the tires too hard, adjusting the rear shocks down would come after playing with technique. I'd also set the rear camber to 0 or even slightly positive.

You can get oil at the pressure sender, that's where the factory turbo motors got it. For an easily available and reasonably well matched turbo, my vote goes to HX/HY35's, the HY's give better response and the HX's can give more power, both will make >400rwhp. I bought mine for $200.

I demand video! I'm working on the downpipe for my holset right now.

Care to elaborate on your control scheme a little bit? Are you using a feedback loop to control the position of the vanes using the stepper and the hall effect, then using the MS PWM signal as the desired position? Did you build your own board to go in the controller box, or have you just hijacked the motor and sensors off the original controller?

Cool project, where in NY are you?

Dunlop Z2 BFG Rival Bridgestone RE-11A Hankook RS3 Toyo R1R I LOVE the Rivals, they are an amazing tire, but I have no experience in a high powered car on them. I drove an NB Miata with them. I have 225/50r16's on my car now, my next tires will be 225/45's, I think the 50's are too tall.

There's an HX35, an HY35, and an HX40. The HY35 is a smaller than the HX35 by a small amount, and the HX40 is a fair bit bigger than the HX35. The HX40 should not be spooling faster than an HY or HX35.

I used a 1/2" for my Holset, but it may be slightly larger than a T04E housing, it does have a little room to spare, but not a ton.

Seems like I've been assuming this was on a stock turbo, but that's really hard to believe with the numbers it's laying down.

I know on the Kurt vises we have in the school shop you can swap the removable jaw from the inside to the outside, effectively adding several inches to the capacity. You can also get clever with some step blocks and clamps if need be.

I absolutely needed a .5" spacer for my HY35. I'm in a similar place in my install, but I think I'm going to go with an external gate if funds allow once I get around to it.

Since this thread is ancient, i can comment on the difference with and without intercooler, without I was seeing 210+ F at 9 psi, with, I see ~90F at 18psi (assuming 70F ambient).

I can make full boost with mine, try using spark cut and forcing the timing to 0 or something ATDC and cut 3 of 5, maybe try going to 3500rpm. Fuel cut only makes a couple psi for me.

http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf It's a 1/4-20 thread right? I'd go for 96-120 inlbs.

I don't recall mine, other than about .009 over the reference that I was using.