letitsnow

Ok, fuel pressure sensor needs to be wired up, all code changes in the .ini are done. and I'm heading out to start of the hydraulic to mechanical swap. It appears that the 1/8" npt port on my fuel rail was cut too deep for anything but a plug to seal up(actually all the npt ports are too deep on this rail). My fuel pressure regulator has a port I can use, anybody see any issue with that?

That's actually the same company that I bought them through amazon from.

I have, the coil, an MSD blaster 2, was bought new for this car when I first put it together. It has maybe 10k on it now. I did borrow another one just to check, with no change.

Guessing cam manufacturer/grinder based on paint marks is pretty shoddy at best. If you can measure the base circle and lobe height and subtract the 2 to get cam lift, you can get valve lift and estimate what cam you have. From what I understand, there are only a handful of unique L series lobes. If you have a dial indicator and a degree wheel you can figure out exactly what you've got.

I'm planning on LS truck coils when I get around to COPs, I ended up with a set of 7 for the paltry sum of free.

The 'stage 1' isky is listed as 270 degrees advertised duration(.006 lift?), the stock turbo cam is 240 advertised. I have not measured it, but from looking at MANY other cams, there is no way that the stock turbo cam has 222 at .050, probably closer to 180. Why the isky catalog says that the stage 1 has LESS duration than the stock cam, I have no idea. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm http://www.iskycams.com/pdf/2010Catalog-Full-Catalog.pdf

deka 14mm o ring injectors. I've got an extra manifold I could just stick them in, but I don't have a separate pump, so at best I'm going to best able to flush them with gas. There is a local shop that does cleaning and testing pretty reasonably, but cash is running low until I start my new job near thanksgiving. I could toss the stock injectors back in, they look like they should work up to ~12psi, but they'll be nearing 100% DC.

I'll give that a shot this weekend if I can, I'm super busy this week with school. But once again, shouldn't the wide band show lean? Is there a good way to hold the injector in the rail? I suppose I could use one of the extra manifolds I have laying around.

I didn't have a filter on the suction side until recently a little bit of the tank sealer I used flaked off and plugged the screen in the pump.

I only bought one transducer, if the pressure seems wrong at the fuel rail I can investigate further. I have the filter on the suction side of the pump, it's a generic, but fairly big, 3/8 steel body filter from autozone. If it were fuel pressure related, wouldn't we see it going lean on the log? I guess I'll find out next weekend.

I reused mine, I scrubbed the black coating off and sprayed a nice thick coat of copper spray on. 400 miles after and everything looks great.

I bought 12 from amazon earlier today, came to $45 shipped. http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Insert-M18X1-5X18-3MM-18153/dp/B003WN3M52

I used bilstein struts from a mk1 rabbit, the part number is in the guide in the FAQ section.

Unless I don't understand how the camaro regulator works, you should be able to just put a return style regulator on it, set for your desired pressure, and the in tank regulator should act like it's not there at all. It should vent fuel back to the tank to maintain 60 psi, if it never gets near 60psi, then it should never vent. The pressure would end up being controlled completely by the return new return style regulator.

I've decided to completely rule out issues with the HLA's and fuel pressure. I ordered the timeserts to convert to mechanical lash adjusters and a pressure transducer so I can datalog fuel pressure. As a plus, now I can toss in my extra N/A L28 camshaft. Total cost for timeserts and transducer, $77.

93 octane, kameari 1mm head gasket, so compression should be very close to stock. The power loss seems related to boost pressure, the more boost, the worse it is. Under 10psi it doesn't seem to happen. I'm not sure it's spark blow out either. Last night I was helping a friend with his subaru, we loaded a mail order tune and adjusted the boost, at 18psi it would 'skip' every now and then at wide open, at 16 psi this didn't happen. AFR was alright on both, I believe this was spark blowout, that's not like what I'm feeling. I wish there was a better way of describing it, reminds me of fouling a sparkplug on my snowmobile, like it drops a cylinder or 2.

Rehosted on hybrid z, they were on imageshack before.

It feels like it might be misfiring, and sometimes it seems to run poorly after a WOT pull, you can smell unburnt fuel when it does run poorly. The odd thing is that it doesn't seem to show up on the wideband trace. It doesn't do this unless you go past 4500-4600, if you stay below, it runs fantastic. This feels like a large unnatural power loss, not like the engine just running out of steam. The thing that really bothers me the most, why does the power just disappear but the datalog looks perfect? I have datalogs of it breaking up at 4500, then continuing to run like crap for 30 seconds more, the afr's on the log look fine, the only telltale sign is that it took more throttle to keep the car going than normal. Spark advance is around 40 degrees in the low load cruise areas, at 12psi it's closer to 20. Megasquirt is controlling spark, it's set up firing the coil directly. I didn't put the head together, so I'll check and make sure the springs are all there. Could a set of worn or poorly maintained hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters cause odd problems like this? Compare this to the 1st pic, notice that it doesn't fall off. This one went to 5500 easily.

Engine: fresh L28ET lower end, stock p90a(unknown miles), stock t3, 750cc injectors, MS2, walbro 255, AEM regulator, evo 8 IC, 2.5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, optical dizzy, new NGK wires, new cap/rotor, new plugs @.040" gap, and an MSD blaster 2 coil. Here is a burst datalog of it happening in 3rd. Because the AFR looks perfect and the power loss is smooth, I'm thinking it's a mechanical problem and not a tune problem. Valve float or hydraulic lifter problems maybe? It might not be entirely clear from the picture, but the car did not have the power to go past 5300. 2011-10-08_15.58.54.zip

You could avoid the EDIS module all together and have MS decode the wheel and fire the COP's. One thing I'm unsure of is if and version of MS1 or MS2 supports a missing tooth cam wheel(36-1 on the cam or in the dizzy for example, not 72-2), with no crank wheel. I can see no reason it wouldn't work, but I don't know it it's supported.

My f-body t56 does shift like a truck, I might try some different fluid and see if it gets better, using normal ATF right now. You can still shift it pretty quickly, but it's not quite as pleasing as some other cars I've driven. I've heard that the GTO's and corvette's got better syncros and shift more nicely, I've not verified this though. The GTO trans has a different shifter location, so if you need the f-body location(I'm not sure about a Z, my LS1/t56 in in an rx7) I believe you have to mix and match some parts.

A local guy(to me) is getting rid of his vk56 swap stuff, he had it in a 350z. Maybe some parts he's selling would work for you. I think you can view this thread without being a member. http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.php?223137-350z-VK56-Swap-Setup&highlight=vk56

Good find!

Did you ever post your .msq? It does sound like a spark problem, do you have spark at the coil? plugs? It looks like it's in about the right spot with a timing light?

You don't need a tps for it to run, but it's kinda nice for looking at the datalogs.