letitsnow

$20 or so After you gut them, measure the OD, free length, wire diameter, and number of turns. Then we can calculate the spring rate and see if you got a set of useful springs or a set of pretty stockers.

Now that I've got the shocks, I'm almost positive that I can use the stock bearing. I'll post my solution tomorrow after I machine the bushings and parts that need it after work. It may be able to be done with hand tools, but I'll leave that for you/the reader to decide.

One of the big torrington bearings that goes between the spring and the lower perch might be an easy fix for you.

Has anyone(Tony or others) done any comparative or back to back testing with a stock manifold and a tubular/equal length/twin scroll/whatever header that they would be willing to share? I'm curious if there is any data to show a benefit to one or the other(ignoring the cost difference), more power at the same boost, change the shape of the curve, lower EGTs, etc.

It looks like the drill bushing clamps the bearing together. IMO, the bearing should not be clamped by the shaft, that will bind the bearing and make it not much better than a spacer. The bearing should float with the spring hat and only see load from the spring, that is how the factory did it with the big ball bearing.

I still don't have the dampers, tomorrow or thursday they should be here. Hopefully I can figure out a way to use the stock bearing, I'm not too fond of the needle bearing setup, honestly.

I'll have to do some measuring when I get it apart then, I'd like to go 1-1.5" lower in the back and 2-2.5" in the front. I'm pretty sure my front is sitting much higher now that I got rid of the massive bumper. I've started to get some parts in and I'm looking at the front steering bearing. Why did you go with the small torrington bearing instead of the factory bearing?

Yup, I'll post any difficulties I have and my fixes. The way you mounted your threaded sleeve, can you raise the car back up to near stock height? If not, how much lower is it?

I think it helps, I'll guess I'll see when I've got parts in hand.

Did you arrange them, from bottom to top: drill bushing-thrust washer-bearing-thrust washer or drill bushing-bearing-thrust washer?

I hope they work too. I've got a question for you, in your FAQ you list 2x thrust bearing washers, I'm assuming you meant 4, 2 for each. Or did you use the drill bushing as the lower race?

I decided to go for the bilsteins, I'll report on what I think of them when I get it together. I went with 200F/225R spring rates.

I don't mean to continually bump my thread, but I've been doing a LOT of reading and new questions are coming to mind. I did a little research on the original application, the common not-retarded-low aftermarket mk1 springs are in the 150-250lb range, which gives me another data point on how these should work for me. The linear valving does make me wonder how they will ride, has anyone other than JustinOlsen used the 3000gt 36mm piston inserts? Did he ever get them fully installed even? I don't really want to revalve, but does anyone have any experience with the 'slightly digressive' 30mm piston?

If your car has always been lower in the back, maybe someone put the shorter isolators/top hats from a 240z in it before you owned it.

Yeah, those numbers sound pretty close to what I've found elsewhere. This is some dyno data I found, the pic is huge. The revalve is 100/300. My main worry is that I'd be over damping the 200lb springs to the point of unnecessary harshness or packing down over bumpy sections of road. I doubt I'd be able to do anything useful with the adjustability of the tokicos, my time would be better spent learning to drive instead of fiddling with everything.

The strut thread has about 14 conversations, no clear topic or direction, but reading through it several times, it seems like most guys are running revalved bilsteins with 300-350lb/in springs on dedicated racecars. I've not found a useful dyno chart of the factory valving, I found one, but the velocity increments are pretty huge. I can't find a single dyno for an illumina (full length or sectioned). There was a comparison of various civic shocks posted in that thread, it appears that the bilsteins(for a civic) are very similar to single adjustable konis on 2. Are these valvings even remotely similar to a Z? I might just go with the mr2 illuminas and sectioned struts if nobody has any input on using the factory valved bilsteins. They are known to work pretty well already.

I'm looking to do a ground control style coilover setup in the near future. I'm having a difficult time choosing dampers. I'd like to run springs in the 200-220 lb/in range. The car will be used for some autocross and track days, but mostly street driving. I'm absolutely alright with sectioning the struts and other fabrication, I currently have access to a full machine shop after work and welding stuff at home. I've been considering the bilstein's used in the sticky(mk1 rabbit, correct?), illuminas, or tokico blues. I'm really not sure how these different dampers will behave with these springs and my intended uses, I'd appreciate any advice.

I just 'fixed' the rotary problem in my rx7.

Mild steel expands less with heat, it apparently doesn't crack as easily as SS. I'd still build a support for the turbo. Edit: This thread was a little older than I thought, oops.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Quad-Wrapped-Ultra-Strength-Limit-Strap-p-47.html http://www.pacificcustoms.com/beard-limiting-straps.html I used the beard straps on a different project, I had no complaints.

I got mine(for my rx7) from speedwaymotors.com, it uses the factory quick disconnect on 1 end and a -3 AN on the other.

Money sent

I'll take a 14mm rail, still $125 shipped as per your other thread? I just got a great deal on a set of 750cc injectors, hopefully I can get them to idle.

I run my MS1 with only MAP, CLT, MAT, and RPM. I have a wideband hooked up, but I don't allow any correction based on it. I don't use TPS or MAF. Right now my car runs excellent, most of the time, every now and then it will decide(for no reason at all) to reset when you nail the throttle. Also, occasionally it feels like it has slight miss at full power. At this point, I'm idly looking for good deals on z31 ecm/nistune stuff, I've gotten mine to run well enough that I don't feel the need to go to that setup, but if it presented itself at a good enough price I would go for it.IMO, the MS has some faults and poor design choices on the v3.0 board that make it finicky for some people and it needs to be revised, I'm unsure if the v3.57 took care of these. There will be a TON of tweaking and searching for answers and soldering. I've built 2 and troubleshot 1.

Check your valve lash on the dead cylinder.