letitsnow

Cosmetic rust wouldn't deter me(and hasn't), but anything structural would. IMO, there are enough of these still around to find one that doesn't need the frame rebuilt. Just remember that time is money, and by buying a fairly clean chassis you will end up both time and money ahead. A lot of projects get abandoned because people lose interest while doing rust repair and body work.

TC rod boxes, rockers, behind the wheels, strut towers near the bottom where it's 2 layers, hatch lid, 'frame rails', battery tray area, and obviously the floors. The rockers in these cars are the main support, not the wimpy rails under the floor. Avoid any aftermarket sunroofs, most are done badly. Do a search for bad dog frame rails, they are a heavy duty aftermarket replacement.

Glad I have 7 LS2/truck coils. Guess I need to devise a decent looking bracket now.

RUST It's ALWAYS worse than it looks, there's just no getting around it with these things.

IMO. that's a bad way to look at this. The end goal of all this modification we do is to make more power. Power is the end goal, ignition timing is one small variable that we have to calibrate to make the power. Nobody should build and engine with the thought "I want to run xx degrees of timing", they should build an engine with the thought "I want xxx power". Does ignition timing affect power? absolutely. Can you build and engine with too much compression? yes. How many of these claims of loosing power because of detonation at relatively modest(sub-11:1) compression ratio's have been substantiated with some sort of proof(dyno, trap speed, ET, etc)? Not many. It is possible to alter the timing value where max power takes place, just because you can or can't run 38 degrees doesn't mean you should. From research(and a small amount of experience) I've found many many people that claim that there is a point where timing increases don't yield more power, they also say that the 'tabletop' they experience is before detonation. Air fuel ratio also plays a BIG role in detonation control as well, a lean spot right around peak torque and you might have to pull 10 degrees to eliminate all detonation. I've seen this in my own car(boosted L28, good fuel/timing control and intercooling), using a 'det cans' setup to listen for detonation. Even minor detonation can be easily heard. Taking the timing back 2-3 degrees from just over the threshold of detonation resulted in little or no perceptible loss in power, dropping another 3 degrees made a noticeable hit in power. No dyno proof yet, but when I do make it I'll post results, my trips to the track were plauged by collapsing lifters, so that data is invalid as well. I've also seen similar results on a SBC, advancing the timing past 33-34 degrees on this engine made no change in 1/4 mile performance, it didn't detonate(this time listening by naked ear) until 38-40 degrees. There are also many differences in individual engines that effect the likelihood of detonation beyond calibration. Sharp edges in the chamber(this is a BIG one, my stock chambers had big burs in them, took less than 10 min to remove), casting flash in the cooling jacket, coolant temp, crud buildup in the cooling system, quench, camshaft specifications. In short, there are WAY too many variables to simply assume that if one engine doesn't detonate that it has a lower VE or makes less power. You absolutely can not assume that people making claims have investigated the issue to the fullest extent before simply picking a reason and blaming that, ie: high compression.

I'd say that it's a reasonable assumption, the pressure in the cylinder of a high HP engine is much higher to begin with.

It's pretty good.

I've found 'det cans' to be pretty informative. You can hear even light detonation very well, it sounds like rice bouncing around in a pie tin. It's a very distinct sound, but I can imagine that it would be difficult to program something to pick it out. There is NO way you can hear this detonation over engine and road noise with bare ears unless it bad enough to be breaking things NOW.

MS will read a wideband and can use that or a NB. It can actually do more with the wideband, feature wise, so it's in your best interest to ditch the NB. All you should have to do is set the type of wideband in tunerstudio or megatune.

That page was the final reason why I decided to go with the bilstein/GC combo. It rides MUCH better and handles rough surfaces MUCH better than a good friends tein coilover equipped s13.

I have an N42 manifold, I have all the aforementioned problems, hard hot starts, fuel heat soak, etc. It's not a deal breaker for me, turning O2 correction on in the MS helped some, but I'd like to add a fuel cooler on the return line near the tank. I'd also like to wrap the exhaust manifold and intake, even at modest boost levels it's easy to get a dull glow going, not visible in daylight, but dusk and dark it's pretty visible.

All the EFI intakes are close enough to be interchangeable performance wise. There's more info out there if you want to look for it.

I have all sorts of F54 and turbo engine parts, in the rochester area, let me know what you need and I'll take a look.

I held it up around 3500, then slipped the clutch out while standing on the gas, I slipped it just enough to keep the car from bogging, boost came on right about when I had the clutch fully engaged. Hopefully with the 2 step and DR's I can launch on boost and do something closer to a 1.8 or 1.7 60'.

I shifted around 5700, yes I used 4th. I'm using a stock open r180, from an automatic 280z, I think it's 3.54:1 and the tranny is a ZX 5 speed. I'm convinced that with a little effort I can go mid 12's, I've got it at 12psi now and it's a whole lot quicker. That was the only run I got that day, with a little practice I could probably knock a tenth or 2 off without upping the boost. I'm planning on buying another set or wheels so I can put my DR's on this car and hooking up the 2 step so I can launch with some boost.

Nobody's gone drag racing all summer?

Glad to hear it!

You can put the stock l28et parts on your N/A L28 and make very similar numbers, you could buy them here, but shipping might hurt a bit. I'm on the stock turbo, boost comes on at ~2300, anywhere around or above 3000 lag is almost nonexistent, my datalogs show something silly like .15sec to full boost from vacuum. Twin turbo doesn't really make an appreciable difference in lag, yes each turbo is smaller, but it's being fed by half the engine. There are reasons to go twins, but spool time and boost threshold aren't really good ones. I'd go with something easy to package personally, save the additional cost of another turbo, another wastegate, another downpipe and put it towards head porting, intake manifold porting, and a cam.

You can do 250hp from a mostly stock l28et. Add an intercooler(I'm using a stock unit from an EVO 8) an exhaust(mine is an MSA downpipe to a 3" exhaust), and an ecu/injectors and you're there with ease. That's my setup in a nutshell, on 7.5 psi I ran a 13.4 at 101mph in a 2700lb(with me) car, that was a soft launch on street tires too, on drag radials or slicks I bet it would go 12's. I haven't made it to the dyno, but all the calculators put me around 230rwhp or 280ish bhp, even if it's optimistic, it's still well within your goal.

If you're running an HEI module to trigger the coil, you need to set the dwell to fixed 50% duty cycle. Also, since you're running a resistor pack, you need to set the PWM current limit and time to 100% and 25.5 respectively. Everything else looks alright. I know what you mean about school, 60+ hrs a week and no money blows.

That's pretty close, 200rpm is roughly where most motors crank at, that's about 3.3 revs per second, one spark every 2 revs is about 1.5 sparks per sec. Is the timing in the ball park, 10ish degrees while cranking?

Do you have a timing light? Set the timing with a light first so you know it's right. If the mark is nowhere near the pointer, change your trigger angle until it is.

There was code to figure out the longer slot based on the high res slots, but the author and the MS people had disagreements and the author packed up his proverbial goodies and left. The way MS would decode the high/low res portions, it would determine which was the cyl 1 slot, then 'remember' it, it would not decode the high res wheel on the fly. The low res portion is 6 slots, using some math(rpm, time, etc) it predicts the time the next cylinder should be coming to TDC. This can be thrown off with high rpm acceleration rates. If you increase the number of slots, you decrease the time between slots, decreasing the amount of acceleration that can take place between each slot, increasing the overall accuracy. In short, short of the angle clock for MS3 being completed(or is it already done?), a 36-1 pattern is MORE accurate than a z31 wheel that is decoded by the code that's no longer available. MS1 and 2 do NOT have enough computing power to decode the high res wheel on the fly.

I know not everyone drag races, but I don't see many 1/4 mile times for L28ET powered cars, lets get a list going. Try to give as much detail as possible. I'll start. 60' 1.969 1/8 8.622 mph 81.57 1/4 13.458 mph 101.18 Details: Car weighs 2750 with fluids and me in it. Stock turbo, 8psi falling to 7 by redline, EVO 8 IC, MS2 v3, big injectors, msa downpipe, 3" mandrel bent exhaust with turbo muffler, N/A 'A' cam, 93 octane.

Yep, dizzy stays, no plug wires, but you can control seq injection or COP using the signal.