letitsnow

L28ET .5mm over, cast N/A pistons Stock T3 Evo 8 intercooler, 2.25" mandrel bent pipes, steel MSA Downpipe, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 3" summit brand turbo muffler n42 intake MS2 v3.0 750cc siemens deka injectors in pallnet rail(overkill much? ) AEM FPR walbro 255 optical CAS no tps(it's not needed) It's run 14.2 at 98mph on 9psi, this was with a 1.5mm top ring in a 2mm top ring groove, the previous owner apparently didn't realize it had N/A pistons. It's apart now getting the correct rings and a hone, hopefully I can go low 13's with more boost.

You should do 100 with NO problem, I'd expect 105ish. I did 98 on 9psi with the stock t3 and massive cylinder leakdown(previous owner put turbo rings on non turbo pistons), car weighed 2740 w/ me in it, open r180 with 225 kumho street tires.

Anybody have results for this type of setup? Preferably with datalog?

Yes, I drove around with the hood off for a little bit after I put the intercooler on, at idle it was fine, any time I went near boost there was a pretty decent fog coming from the little breather filter I've got on the valvecover. I've got the engine out and apart now, the pistons are.....perfect. They are .50mm over N/A dished pistons(everything else is L28ET), one of the previous owners put a set of L28ET rings on it, the top ring is 1.5mm, the N/A ring groove is 2mm. I haven't updated this thread much, so since my last update I've: swapped to MS2 and retuned, new wires, boost leak check and repair, and went to the track. At the track, I ran a best of 14.2 at 98mph on ~9psi, 2.2 60', every time I added boost I lost mph. I also had a best 60' of 1.9 with an open diff and street tires, that tells me this thing is very nearly a 13sec car with almost no cylinder sealing and not much boost.

In boost, I'm at ~21 degrees, it traps 98mph in the 1/4, with broken pistons.

I've got one, but it has a few broken bolts in the exhaust housing. Very little play. PM me if you're interested.

You should be able to make 300 crank hp with the stock turbo, you'd be pushing it a bit, but it should do it.

My car makes PLENTY of power to get in trouble with 20* of timing. As long as the light confirms your timing map, you're golden.

Give this a shot. You'll need to check your timing and recalculate the req_fuel, but it should get you started. I am using MS to trigger the coil directly, so you may need to change a setting or 2 to make it work with the zxt ignitor. Be very careful with this tune, I just found that my motor has a ton of leakdown and I have not pinpointed the reason, it may have too much advance in the boost regions. AFRs in boost were low 11's in MY car, no idea about yours. Edit: this is for the most recent stable MS2-Extra release 2011-08-05_8.25.zip

Bad news, I did a leakdown test. This is pressure remaining, from 100psi or thereabouts, cold engine. Home made leakdown tester, .040" orfice(std size). 1: 60psi 2: 40psi 3: 43psi 4: 25psi 5: 68psi 6: 70psi As a check I did one cylinder on dad's firebird, 90psi. This thing felt really strong for leakdown between 30 and 75%. It ran a 14.2 at 98 with ~9psi last weekend. I do have to wonder if I broke it or if it was broke when I got it, it has never idled as well as I thought it should.

That's what I brought up to their tech person, but they insisted that it would not fit and they wouldn't share any dimensions other than the OD, which is slightly smaller(5mm I believe). So without more info, I have to assume that they are correct and it won't fit.

Dizzy 180 out? I think it will still fire on 2 if it is.

What dizzy?

Does anybody make an alternate trigger wheel for the L28/Z31 optical CAS? For example, a missing tooth wheel with TDC marker on the outer ring. DIYautotune makes one for the KA and other nissan CAS's, but tells me it won't fit the L28. If nobody makes one, I may be able to CAD one up and see about getting it laser cut, obviously I'd need to have a whole sheet cut to make it worthwhile. Any interest?

Any idea on when another run might happen?

Nope, .1ms is straight out of the manual. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Software_Manual.htm#dwell Adding dielectric grease seems like it helps some, so I guess a set of wires is what I need.

Spark duration is set to .1ms, the manual says that's fine for 99% of installs so I went with it, I'll give a higher number a shot. Last night I checked out the wires while it was dark out, I'm getting a bunch of glow/corona at the plug ends. I'm going to try a bunch of dielectric grease on them to see if it helps any.

Nope, still losing them. Gapped plugs down to .018, that seemed to help a little, maybe. Maybe my coil is getting weak, maybe plug wires, maybe time for 36-1 and LS1 coils?

found the distributor cap was pretty cracked, replacing it seems to have helped a ton, I think the rest is in the tune.

I have the bilsteins with 200/225 springs, handling is excellent, ride isn't awful, but it is firm. The roads around here suck pretty badly though.

I put my IC on the datsun over the weekend(2.25" pipe, evo 8 IC, mystery oem BOV(maybe subaru?), t bolt clamps and silicone couplers everywhere). I had to reloacate the IAT sensor in the new piping. That covers the most recent modifications. At ~7psi everything is dandy and it pulls to 5500 just fine. At 12 psi, 4600rpms and it feels like it looses a few cylinders, when you let off the gas it's running very badly on 3-4 cylinders. It clears up shortly after and runs on all 6 just fine. From boost onset to ~4400 the car pulls very hard, it doesn't break up or lose cylinders at all. I just changed the plugs from bpr6ey's to br7es's thinking that the non-projected tip might do better with the higher boost, no change. The ignition system is an MSD blaster 2 coil fired directly by megasquirt, NGK wires, and the plugs previously mentioned gapped at .028. AFR's are 11.5ish at 12psi and 11.5 falling to 11.0 at 7psi. One of my datalogs shows it holding 5000 rpm for 1 sec at 10 psi like it was on the limiter, boost was 12 falling to 11 before it hit 4900ish. From 4000-4500 took 1.1 sec for reference.

I'm getting about 220-240°F at 9 psi, no cai or intercooler. I need to order some IC piping.

I don't have an IAC, you can tell it doesn't, but it's plenty drivable. I think it would be worth it, sometimes the idle hunts during stop and go traffic and that bothers me.

What kind of boost controller? A ball and spring? EBC? Bleed? By your description, it sounds like a bleed.

Ok, I got the fronts finished and installed. All I can say is WOW. These are very comfortable, I was expecting something kinda like my cousin's 240sx with Tein HA's, stiff and harsh. The ride is a lot firmer, but still very comfortable and controllable over rough roads. I'd say that this setup is exactly how I feel a sports car should drive, it's VERY good IMO. On to how I did it, I followed the guide for the most part, but I made some changes for the steering bearing. I used the factory bearing. I machined the spring hats down to the first ledge and I opened up the ID so it would slide down where the dust boot normally pops into place(~.955"ish). I made a bushing the same OD as that part of the damper(~.950"ish) and ~.670ish long, this way the spring hat can float with the bearing and they both only see load from the spring. When you tighten down the nut on top it clamps the isolator onto the machined bushing, not the bearing. Pics will probably help with my poor explanation.