letitsnow

That rust is still very fixable, what is the rest of the car like?

I picked up an intercooler from an evo 8 recently, it fits in the nose of a Z pretty well, now I just have to build the piping and mount it. The temps were from my old motor, it didn't have the heat shield on the exhaust manifold, the motor I just put in does have the heat shield, hopefully it cuts down on the temps some until I can get the IC on. I'm also keeping the timing around 20-22* in boost for now. I'm pretty surprised that they're this high for a reasonably stock setup, but I bet they'd drop 50* if I moved the filter out front.

Does it still have the stock pop off valve?

What kind of IAT's are you guys seeing? Please include weather you have an intercooler or not, air filter location, what turbo, boost pressure, and any other info you think is relevant. I have the stock 280zx t3, non intercooled, filter is straight off the turbo after about 1ft of pipe, about even with the harmonic balancer, with 7psi of boost. On an ~80* day I see a peak of ~220*F after a few gears. Sensor is located in the J pipe right before the 180* bend.

Even with a quick spool valve, that's a pretty big turbine housing for a 2.8L, if you switched to a .63 T4 divided or .81 T4 divided with a quick spool it would be much better, IMO.

Flatblack's got the right one. Another way to get spark cut is to run the sensor directly to the MS and also trigger the coils directly, just have to do a little reading and buy 2 more coil drivers(BIP373). Going this way, you get the nice features of the dizzy(spark cut, etc) and the added precision of a crank trigger(real or perceived).

I don't see why you couldn't, do they have some sort of stainless there? I really doubt the factory used some sort of fancy alloy. Make sure you torque the bolts to the proper spec, none of these methods are meant to hold torque, just to keep it from completely unthreading if it comes loose.

I've used the distorted thread type for other things with success, but I've never used the other types. For a bolt, the best way is safety wire, lock washers don't really work all that well as far as I'm concerned. The problem is that it's such a pain to drill them, you pretty much need a drill press, even then there's a decent chance you'll break a few bits. You can buy pre-drilled bolts, but I seem to remember them being kinda pricey, and I don't remember where. On the other hand, there isn't anything stopping you from making another lock plate with bendable tabs to hold the heads.

Wait, on purpose? How much power does your car make?

Are you using bolts or studs? If bolts, take them out and drill an .040 hole in the head and safety wire them. If studs, use a METAL locking nut, preferably stainless.

There was a post in the L6 section stating that several chromemoly rb25 flywheels work on the L28 and accommodate a 250mm clutch. The prices were very reasonable if I remember right.

I'd go with the walboro of a bosch 044, the bosch flows a bit more and should handle 400whp pretty easily.

Close, actually, the '90 runs 12's, the '89 runs low 18's and has the v6. My L28 powered Z, when running properly(not very often), is waaaaaaaaaaay quicker than the '89 Firebird, the turbo helps some.... The engine in my firebird is called the "LB8". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_60-Degree_V6_engine#LB8

I understand the concept, but why that engine, the 2.8 is probably my least favorite engine ever. Mine is gutless in a 3200lb car AND it barely gets 20mpg(more like 16) on my 75% highway commute, nothing that is that slow should get that bad of economy.

Under low load/high vacuum conditions engines like a lot of timing. I'm only running 19 or 20 deg at idle though. Edit: whoops

Under low load/high vacuum conditions engines like a lot of timing. I'm only running 19 or 20 deg at idle though.

The mechanical part is the easy part, really. The hard part is driving the thing and the proper control system. The easiest way would be an early vtec style system, on or off. Then you would really only have to worry about making it move.

I really doubt it's pinging, it's much too consistent. 2800rpm in any condition and it's there. I guess it doesn't hurt to verify TDC on the damper though, on the list it goes.... Last week of the semester followed by finals week means time is kinda limited.

Megasquirt, the max timing on the map is 35°(cruise rpm/map), actual timing does match the commanded timing. Timing at full boost is 24° going to 22° at 5200. Listening to it with a stethoscope, the sound is loudest centered on the side of no. 6 when free revving in the garage.

I have this clearly audible knock starting at 2800rpm and continuing to 6k, it's only there on acceleration or cruise, not on decel. It's not there at idle. I drained the oil and cut the filter open(with a pipe cutter, not dremel), the only metal that I could find was so fine that I'm not actually sure it was there, and if it was it doesn't look like it could cause it. The valve clearances are set correctly, I checked them on several different occasions. I had hoped my free/practice engine would last at least a summer. Based on the lack of metal in the oil, I think it might be a flywheel bolt coming loose. I'm going to pull the tranny in the next few days, the clutch is already shot so I have to anyhow.

Take a gallon of simple green/laundry detergent/some other degreaser and a brush and clean it up instead of paying someone to do the same thing. Then move. Seriously, these people don't make much sense, your car is leaking but you can't stop it from leaking because you aren't allowed to work on it.

Possibly, cut your oil filter open and check that. If it's as fine as I'm imagining it, and the motor is fresh, it's most likely nothing, but it can't hurt to check.

Whoops, sorry, you won't need an adapter, I was thinking it was something else.

I used 7-10lbs, but I had to go over them about 5 times to get them all even. Looking in my copy of the how to modify book, they suggest gluing the gasket to the pan, like I mentioned earlier.

You still won't end up with a lobe identical to kameari's unless you physically copy their cam, or you convince them to give you a full cam-doctor report, which is doubtful. The best thing to do is talk to isky and explain what you want to do with the engine and get one of his cams, or shell out the money for the real deal. I suppose you could try to develop your own lobe, but that's one of those 'if you have to ask' type things.