letitsnow

Every time I order something there, it's always in the store the next day. The only problem I had was once their alternator tester wasn't sensitive enough to pick up the fluctuation it was giving me, two other places did and agreed with me that it was bad. I had to argue a little to get them to replace it, but they did.

Over the past month I've been fighting with my megasquirt(MS1 v3). After a bunch of research I've come up with some mods that made my system much more stable and robust. First problem, I had some massive noise on the +12v line because I'm running low-Z injectors with PWM. Installs with high-Z injectors can see similar problems, but generally not as bad. Most of the noise comes from the flyback circuit. Here's how I remedied it: 1) lift the center leg of both of the flyback TIP125's 2) Solder a wire between them and to one of your spare ports on the DB36, I used one of the IAC ports because I'm not using it and my harness already had a wire there 3)Run a wire from the DB36 directly to your +12v feed to the injectors I also put a 47uF cap across the center legs of the TIP125's and TIP42's, negative side to the TIP42. I also put a 1uF cap across the boot loader pins. I'd consider this optional, I did this before the other step and left them there after. They helped somewhat, but removing the dirty +12v completely fixed my voltage issues. I used to have noise with several volts peak to peak, now I have at most .2-.4 variation across an entire datalog. Second problem I encountered, resets under load. These started after I took care of the voltage issues, whenever I was at full throttle(at ~80% it would be fine) the ecu would reset shortly after boost came on. After a bunch of messing around with grounds and other such things I had helped it, but not cured it. Not wanting to drop $100 on sparkplug wires that might fix my problem, I started searching on msextra.com forums and found that the RSTINV(pin 6) resets the cpu when it drops below 2v. The internal pull up resistor is in the mega-ohm range making it very susceptible to RF noise, this pin is so sensitive that if you touch it with your finger while the engine is running it will reset. It was suggested to solder a .1uF cap across pin 6 and pin 2(ground), the cap will charge up to 5v and hold pin 6 there much more reliably than the internal pull up alone. I'm hesitant to say that it has completely solved my reset issue, but it's been 2 days and ~100 miles since without a reset. Anybody else have some good ones they want to share?

Before you run the car any more, please change the PWM settings to the ones in the sticky, where you have it set now is dangerous to your injectors and your MS. Setting the time to 25.6 essentially turns PWM off, unless MS2 uses a different method for PWM settings.

You don't have the pedal return spring hooked up? On my car that made a HUGE difference, before it was on it felt like nothing was there, now with it on it feels like a normal clutch.

I bought my complete turbo swap for $325 + a set of wiper arms for a 240z, came with a few aftermarket parts too(HG, fidanza fw, clutch). Apparently I'm the only one in western ny with any love for the L series, he had it for sale for $350 for at least a month.

Marine clean works good, I also like simple green. Simple green won't touch most decent coatings unless it's near boiling.

Mine were a super tight fit, I greased them up with the supplied grease and eventually got them in. It would NOT have been fun with the engine in the car. I did the isolator at the same time, steering went from almost dangerous to very precise.

What has always confused me is that the compressor wheel is not mechanically indexed on the shaft, it's only held lined up by friction(admittedly, a lot of friction). Meaning that rotation of the compressor wheel relative to the shaft is possible. It seems to me that unless the compressor wheel and turbine/shaft are balanced independently(each is neutral), that this is a major design flaw, and I don't think the engineers at turbonetics/borg warner/garrett/honeywell/etc would miss something like that. Not really helpful to your specific situation, but related to the topic and I thought I'd share. I've got one that I'm going to rebuild and hybridize myself, I've only got ~$75 in it so if it dies a quick death I won't be too pissed at myself for being cheap.

How did you decide that the stock 33 pump is so inadequate? Lots of failures or something? What about the vg30et pump? Unless I'm mistaken, which happens pretty often, isn't flow through an orifice(the engine in this case) directly related to the pressure drop across it? If so, the orifice(engine) will flow the same amount at the same pressure regardless of the pumps ability to flow more. Bumping the pressure up will therefor increase the flow, assuming that the pump can deliver that much oil. It's very similar to the fuel system, as long as the pump can supply enough to maintain pressure everything's fine. Increasing the fuel pressure makes the injectors seem bigger because they move more fuel. Throwing a magnafuel 500 on an otherwise stock engine won't make a bit of difference. Now if you ported the oil passages and ran real loose bearing clearances then you might be able to convince me you needed more flow.

Yeah, the tooth count and number missing.

Just out of curiosity, what is the pattern on the '81 balancer?

Check out the sticky about the z31 ecm swap.

Yes, but the MS will only use one for fueling calculations as far as I can remember. It's pretty much just setting up another ADC and probably a few simple lines of code to get a gauge reading correctly and the datalog to show. Do some research in the manual.

A T5 can be had cheaper than any trans adapter I've seen, I got one from a 3rd gen f body for $150 on craigslist.

That sensor is meant to be pushed into a rubber grommet, I wouldn't use it. Buy the IAT sensor and bung from DIYautotune, it has a 3/8" npt thread and exposed element, you'll have to weld the bung to the j pipe or tap your intake somewhere, just make sure it's post turbo. I put mine in the J pipe and it works great.

I can't tell if you're joking, but, if you're not....

Do you have any experience tuning (blowthrough) carbs? How about the carbs you are looking a at? If not, I'd go with something more proven, like mikunis or a holley, there is a lot of support for tuning blowthrough holleys on other forums. With the bike carbs you will pretty much be on your own, and they'll need a significant amount of tuning to be anywhere near close. If you don't already have an in depth understanding of carbs, efi might be easier to learn. As far as getting the carbs, check motorcycle salvage yards and ebay. You'll probably either have to make or have made some adapters to go to an existing manifold. Also, most 2 stroke carbs don't have an accelerator pump, so you can rule all of those out.

Why do you want to run 6 bike carbs?

That should do it

There's a sticky in the megasquirt forum that has all the usefull info you could want about them.

Right now, the timing light reads 18 at idle and the computer is commanding 25, right? To get them to match you could either advance the distributor 7 degrees or change the trigger angle 7 degrees, I'd advise moving the distributor and then locking it down. Once they match NEVER move the dizzy, ever, only change timing in the timing map.

Tool shed still shows up in a general search, just not in a sectional search. But yeah, the OP does need to spend a few hours searching and reading.

No, that is the charcoal canister, it's not necessary to have(it is if you have to pass emissions), but there's no real reason to get rid of it either.

Spark -> Spark Settings It's the first option under the spark menu with tunerstudio and very likely the same with megatune.