letitsnow

I agree, especially with something as overbuilt as this. With a part with a more reasonable thickness it's not as clear cut.

A proper weld should be stronger than the base metal. Post up the dimensions and I can see about plugging it into ANSYS, no guarantees though and probably not till after the holidays as I'm not planning on spending too much time at school.

Mine is 2700 and change with me in it(180lbs). Turbocharged intercooled L28ET, '77 280z, mostly complete interior with no bumpers.

I sectioned my struts nearly 2", and that was for a minor drop. It put the static ride height of my bilsteins dead in the middle of the travel. I needed a ~5/8" spacer under the strut, so I couldn't have taken much more out. I'd really recommend measuring and calculating the amount you need to take out for your intended ride height, I had to take way more out than I thought I would.

A decent deal came up on one of these on another forum. Anybody run one? Any input? If it was a 5857 or 6057 I'd probably already own it. I'm afraid it's a little big for my tastes. The seller claims that it starts to come on around 2900 on a 2.0L 3sgte with cams,a sheet metal intake, and a tubular exhaust manifold/

Did you create a new project in TS for his car? If not, that could be why it doesn't connect, otherwise go through the assembly instructions and make sure the serial chip is working.

Didn't Slow Old Car make 400rwhp on an HY35?

Yup, like squirting it at the right time with the right amount of additional fuel. MS can take care of all of that with little issue. I just bought a used dry kit for $70 locally, I'm thinking about setting up a nitrogen push system(think NANO kit) using a paintball HPA tank and some AN fittings, but that's a little different than filling a co2 tank. I'm not sure you'll find someone to fill a co2 tank with n2o, the vapor pressures are close, but n2o is a bit higher.

Clifton fit a 275 out back by carefully picking offset and running a short, stiff, coilover spring that put the perch above the tire if I remember correctly. 12 psi on my L28 with the stock turbo will light the tires from a 20-30mph roll if there's any moisture on the road. It really does make a lot of torque for a little engine, full boost can be had at almost 2k in higher gears.

I've run low 12's at 109, I've spun BADLY(think 3 sec 60' times) and run 15's at 105. You can take much longer over the first 50 feet and lose lots of time, but the car has nearly the same length of track to accelerate up to a similar speed. A 400rwhp s30 will trap 125 on a good street tire with 3.54 gears.

Also, John, the original post mentioned tokico shocks and lowering springs, that's a far cry from custom valving and penske triple adjustables.

I think those penske's cost more than my entire car.

In short, I'd be suspicious of that dyno in the future, I trust scales more than dynos.

Turning over dry for a short period isn't going to hurt the rings. If you're nervous, give it a shot of wd40 or oil.

This is VERY true.

I have bilsteins in sectioned struts with 200/225 springs(coilover sleeves) and poly bushings. The steering takes a lot of turning the wheel and is kinda heavy at low speeds but it is NOT sloppy and every small movement gets a reaction, sometimes it just takes a lot of turning to get the reaction you're looking for. Obviously the steering is the same ratio as the stock suspension, the bigger tires make it a little tougher in tight parking lots. It doesn't really feel like a light flickable car, but it is. In order to get it to misbehave you need to go WAY faster than you think is safe, then mash the go pedal. Tires are 225/50r16 kumho ecsta spt's on a set of 16x8 xxrs. A decent set of tires is important. After DDing it for months, then hopping in my accord on tiny all seasons, I nearly ate a guard rail. The struts and springs made a huge difference, I did the front poly bushings and I could feel the change, but it was minor, I did the rear bushings with the rest of the work, so I can't comment on them. My stock bushings were in great shape to begin with too.

You guys should put it up on the website so we can preorder and just have it show up when they're ready.

Yup, turbo L, steel IC pipes, no bumpers, no AC in the engine bay(still under the dash), no spare or tool kit, coilovers, 16x8 xxr 513's. I'm probably forgetting a few other things, but that's most of the weight changes. I've weighed it on two different scales, one at the drag strip, and one at a gravel pit.

My '77 weighs 2740 with me in it, I weigh 175ish.

I don't think I have the ini file, it's for 3.1.0 though, 3.1.1 should be compatible and is the new stable release. I just posted on MSextra about a rev limit issue I'm and apparently there is a bug and that's why it's not working, so be careful, spark cut rev limit doesn't work. It's supposed to be fixed for 3.2.1. I'll be honest, this isn't a pretty, well tuned msq, but it does drive fairly well and makes decent power. It's very seriously something I threw together on the way to the drag strip after a head/cam swap, it could use some smoothing and tweaking. I did that, but I started having injector problems(think I plugged an injector from poor filtration) after that, so I don't trust any of the more recent iterations. Standard warnings: be careful with your car, blown engines aren't my fault, do not taunt happy fun ball, your mileage may vary, every engine is different, etc 2011-10-25_16.44.06.zip

89 is a v6, 90 is a carb'd 355 with trick flow heads etc. The 90 is fun, but the drag based suspension(90/10's and 50/50 shocks, boxed LCA's, poly lca bushings) makes it not all that pleasing to go around a corner with.

2nd gen chassis code, 3rd gen is FD, and first is FB. Stock gearing is 4.11, a lot of people(rx7) swap to 3.55 8.8 ford IRS diffs.

I have an FC rx7 with a 5.3, I could see how the LS2 in a lighter car could be a handful. This thing will spin the crappy 7" wide tires nearly at will below 60, with 100hp less than an LS2, putting a set of 17x9 wheels with 255's made it a bunch more manageable. After doing the LS1 swap, I see why it's popular, it's easy. You drop it in, have someone remove emissions/VATS, and have a crazy fast car that runs like brand new and gets good gas mileage. Parts are easily available and if you want more power it's easy. Low 12's-11's should be easy with a stock LS1, rx7 people do it and S30's are lighter. The L28ET is getting harder to find in good shape and it does take some thought to make power with, things aren't as available.

There's no way you were making 400rwhp and trapping 104. 300rwhp in a camaro will trap 105-110 pending weight etc. 400 will put you high teens. That S30 was probably making 250ish rwhp. I ran a 13.4 at 101 on my first(and only) pass of the night, on stock boost(with IC, exhaust, and MS). 12.60 is entirely believable for a modded, stock turbo, L28ET at higher boost.

Ok, call up some machine shops and ask for hastings part number 2C6150, might be able to find them on the net somewhere. I found it using the site. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/RingFinderMasterDetails.aspx?AppMACD=NISSCART&AppMOCD=NISSAN%20Cars%20&%20Trucks&AddText=