cockerstar

I haven't tried to warm it up. The thought never crossed my mind as it's about 90 degrees out whenever I start it I'll drive it around a bit and bring it up to operating temps to see if that fixes anything.

I'm really digging this, and it's making me want to spend wayyy too much money on matching CF ZG flares, a CF hood, and a CF spoiler to complete the look

Very nice Paul! Love it

I've decided to put all of my effort into my '71 240z build, so I'm trying to get my zx ready to sell for some funding. When I parked her she ran just fine, but after about three months of sitting, she wont idle anymore. It will struggle a bit before dying out, but when I rev it up things are just fine. Everything is fine in gear as well. Could the idle adjustment need to be messed with in the AFM? That doesn't seem right to me because it ran just fine when parked. The only thing I have done since starting it was to bleed the clutch. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance guys

Opinions? For $6700 it looks like a pretty good deal, but I'm wondering how much boost he has been running. Makes me want to assume it's been beaten to hell and back... http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1162445844.html

That's it. I'm doing it this summer when I shave my rear bumper and side markers! I have had a bit of experience - dogleg patch and a sunroof patch You're doing great for this being your first time Beau Get a large piece of copper to place behind the seam as you stitch weld. It will help dissipate the heat of the weld, and it also provides a backing to help build up filler.

Use the hoist and stands to place the motor where you want it and make mock up mounts from cardboard/card stalk that you will be able to transfer to steel. Once the engine is where you want it you'll be able to mock up a new fire wall as close as you can make it.

I honestly don't know if they are torqued to spec or not. I'm adjusting mine exactly as they will be running in the car. Is there a different way to do it? I thinned one of my 14mm wrenches quite significantly with a dremel just for adjusting my valves. It's actually quite handy having it fit on the adjustment nut without bumping into anything. After I snug the jam nuts up, should I be able to easily rotate the adjustment nut with a wrench?

That really looks great! I'm going to have to play around with one of my cracked spares. I've been wanting to make a half-console for some time now. Have you done anything with fiberglass before? I think you might like how creative you can get

I had to crank for about 7-8 seconds, but after that a good thick stream of oil flowed out of my spray bar. Some of the lobes are shinier than others, but I can feel any edges from wear with my finger or by lightly scraping over the surface of the lobe with a socket. Hopefully everything is good there. All I can cone up with is the adjustment screws backing out, but that seems really bizarre.

It's an externally oiled cam, and I replaced the damaged spray bar with one from my parts car, so I'm sure hoping that my cam is getting the proper oiling! I'll verify asap.

From my completely uneducated in the field of fluid dynamics perspective, it looks like it could benefit from a slightly straighter shot at cylinders #1 and 2, but I really like where you're going with this!

So, my 240 sounds like a diesel, and I assumed I just needed to adjust my valves. Turns out that the PO (who rebuilt the engine and head) hadn't set the initial clearances and the adjustment and locking nuts were all at the bottom, great. So I set them to the cold specs (.008 intake and .010 exhaust) and the noise went away for about 10 seconds of idling and then returned. I rechecked them and set them to the same specs, but with a much tighter drag on the feeler gauges. Started it back up and it sounded better than ever. Nice and quiet like it should be, but after about 30 seconds of idling and 2 or 3 revs to about 2500rpms the noise came back. This isn't enough time for the engine to even come close to warming up, so I don't think I'm in range to be testing hot specs. I'm able to turn the adjusting nut even when the lock-nut is tight against it, and this strikes me as odd. Possibly the source of my issues? What would cause my valves to come out of adjustment so quickly? Right after they have been set tightly everything is great! This is the only thing keeping me from putting my car back on the road, and I honestly have no idea what is wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated Thanks in advance, Ryan

Just clean it up with some sandpaper

Do you have the proper respirator for welding galvanized? It lets off some nasty stuff...

SPAL is the route to go for the power windows. Great product

What's a good price for a pair of these seats? I found a set in pretty good condition on craigslist, but I'm not sure if I should consider them or not. I'm really torn between these, NISMO seats, and the 350z seats - these being the only leather set.

That looks great man! You're going to want to tig that all together or put down a few more tacks before you start welding the sections together or you'll create little gaps as the newly laid metal cools and contracts. It would look great TIG'd though. Planning on any type of coating?

If you do not have an angle grinder, buy one A die grinder is a good idea to have as well. Looking great for a first timer, and just good in general. Where are you wanting to take the exhaust from there?

Like Derek said, Is this your DD, or your weekend car? I love my Z, and as much as I hate to say it, performance parts can wait for a little bit. I'm focusing on making the beast more comfortable to drive and getting it to look a little better right now. I'll have an alarm, AC, a full stereo system, a new interior, and all of my body work+paint before the summer is over so I can take it with me as my only car when I move across state this fall. Power windows would be a great addition to a DD, along with power door locks, but if your Z is your fun sports car that only plays a few times per week then no ac, manual windows, and that luscious scent of gasoline and old vinyl that we have all grown to love is the only way to go

Is it all stock right now? Which block and head do you have?

Definitely learned something new today! Any advantages over a t56?

t45?

I'm pretty sure you're looking for the r200 from a 1987-1989 turbo 300zx. The plus side is that it bolts in with the correct half-shafts. The downside is that they are expensive, $700+ USD.

Car type? Engine? Trans? We can't help you if we know nothing about your car...