cockerstar

Hey guys, I just need some quick help here. I'm probably overlooking something blatantly easy and I'll really appreciate it if you could point anything out. I feel like a lot of us are great with the mechanical aspect of things, but the wiring aspect of things really throws us off. I just dropped my engine into the car and am now trying to get it to run. Have no problems with the fuel side of things, but I can't get any spark to save my life. I have isolated the problem to be before the distributor because I'm not getting any spark from the coil wire to a grounded source when cranking. New NGK plugs gapped at .036", new 7.5mm wires, new cap, new rotor, and I'm on my third coil (first two were rather old and had some corrosion on the body so I didn't really count them for being worth much). The only thing I haven't replaced is the actual wiring itself and the dropping resistor. I have gone through and cleaned all of the contacts with sandpaper or an abrasive pad until they shined. Could an old resistor be the cause of all my issues? I didn't think they went bad I've been pouring over the diagrams in my haynes manual, and they have taught me the basics along with google of how everything works, but I know I don't know enough to get to the roots of my problem. After lots of searching I have found that the most common issues are with bad grounds and the ignitor, but I'm not sure where to go. Thanks in advance guys! I've included a pic of how I have everything hooked up as of now.

Please don't spend 2k on that car! Set out a budget and look around online here as well as locally/craigslist. For a bit more than that you can get a solid runner with little rust, and for under 5k you can have an very nice car. I wouldn't necessarily assume there's anything wrong with the auto tranny. Most people will prefer a manual in a sports car and the owner probably just wanted to swap it over out of that personal preference.

I couldn't find a datsun blue either, so I went with a "new ford blue" hoping that it would be similar. I mean, blue is close to blue, right? Well, it came out looking crisp, but any other color would have done that for me too. Overall it wasn't a bad choice, but I would pick something else if I had the chance again. If you can't find a datsun blue, just go with whatever you want, rather than trying to find something close.

What don't you have a mold of now?

Like the title says, I'm looking to buy both the front and back reservoirs for the brake master cylinder on my 240z. I'm missing the originals and the ones on my parts cars are either missing or starting to crack. I believe that the ones from a 280zx will also fit. Definitely willing to work out a trade if anyone is interested in going that route Please post here and then PM me. Thanks, Ryan

Hey guys, I'm looking for what I'm assuming is an early shifter for a 240z. My haynes manual has this shifter listed as the 240z type and the one I have a picture of as the 260z. I pulled the shifter from my parts car, so I guess it is possible a 260z tranny was swapped in. I have included a picture of where the shifter goes on my tranny as well as a picture of the type of shifter that will not work for me. I'm also looking for a shift knob that's in decent shape. Please post here first and then send me a PM just in case I don't see your post I have four Z cars, so if you're looking for something I'd be more than happy to trade! Thanks, Ryan

I would kill to have access to a shop like that to work in! Beats the hell out of a crowded two car garage and the driveway, plus the parts car sitting in the back yard. You're really making a ton of progress. So much for starting to take things apart in two weeks, huh?

That color is fantastic! I would definitely get the bumpers stripped and rechromed though. I think it looks a bit off with them being blue.

Are you guys all running rubber clutch lines in between the hard lines, or braided stainless?

Doesn't necessarily have to be a shifter to row through the gears. I have used a cut off dowel to distinguish between trannys before

OMG ROFL!

any idea on what brand your carpet kit is? The fit looks great! Loving the 350z seats with the carpet that covers the trans vinyl. Any interest in selling your old harness? Anything is better than the 38 year old stock seat belts

Take a look at these links http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518 and http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121121

All of the glass, d-80 spoiler, roof skin, front bumper, window trim, door handles, possibly the dash pads and seats, possibly little things under the hood, possible matching lock set, VIN#, etc...

water/meth injection

Any pics of the car in its current standings?

It isn't the water I'm worried about, it's the shot of degreaser I squirted into the oil. I guess it really wasn't a large amount, just a little concerned.

So, how much weight did you end up cutting out?

I see far more than $350 in parts there It's a rust bucket, but for that price I'd be all over it!

lol This is definitely one of those times where I know I'm an idiot

The block was rebuilt by the PO. Well, I got it in a rebuilt state from the PO. Not sure if he did the work himself or not, but he knew his stuff so I'm not worried there. I spent the day finishing everything after paint. It came out very well and it's ready to go back in the car after I figure out what to do about this. I was planning on starting out with a liberal application of WD-40 and then running a quart of oil through it and out my drain plug. Any other suggestions? I know I'll be changing my oil very shortly after I fire her up and set my rings, so I know it will get flushed out that way, but I still want to do something else before that.

Stock pistons pop up about that much iirc

Swap out the stock r180 for an r200 and you'll be good to go.

I know that it isn't a set psi, but the amount of boost plays a very significant role. More boost = more air = more fuel = larger injectors. Great to hear that you were in the 15psi range with stock injectors! I always thought they generally maxed out a bit before that, but the later the better!

I think you guys are being rather conservative with the amount of boost you're looking to run. Everything I know comes solely from reading here rather than from first hand experience, so take what I have to say with a grain of salt. I've always been under the impression that with a properly tuned MS system and stock turbo hardware plus an intercooler it's safe to push around 10-11psi. After that you maxed out your injectors and needed to upgrade there. Stock n/a compression is still relatively low and isn't too much higher than turbo compression (for a lot of head/piston combo's) and still well within the realm of what is safe to boost. The compression bump is going to result in being able to run slightly less boost overall, but it is also going to help with off boost driving and is arguably favorable for a daily driver.