cockerstar

FWIW, I shipped a dash via greyhound from washington to georgia for $70. Wrapped it in a sheet of 2" foam, taped it solid, and then taped several pieces of cardboard to that to make an "armor" over the foam. Worked flawlessly.

That really looks nice! I can't wait to see how it all turns out. I hadn't ever heard of the clear that nissan is using. Sounds very appealing! Especially for someone who works on their own car. This really makes me want to get started on painting my car! I'm definitely going to be doing my own as well. What kind of gun are you using?

Are you crazy?! Search Hot pastrami, or hot cheesesteak?

Check out the JC Whitney seats

I also have a set, and that door you wanted, PM me

Know your rights! Sounds like you were driving along, a third car did something out of the ordinary, and the accord had to swerve to avoid hitting them and in the process slammed into you. 100% not your fault. They are claiming that it was your fault because if they can get you to admit to it, and have it in the police report, then fault is already determined in their favor for the insurance proceedings. If I blatantly rear-end someone, I'm still going to come out of my car insisting that the entire incident was their fault even though it's plain that it wasn't. Sad, yet a common and effective tactic. #1 rule of non-serious accidents: NEVER admit fault. You have the right to settle the matter in a court of law. The insurance company does not have the final say in everything. It is their JOB to place the smallest cost possible on their company. You need to assure that your medical costs are covered. That should be your #1 priority. The car comes second, as it's far less important than your knee. As for the car, they're going to try to total it out on you for a very low price. When you're dealing with them the question you always need to ask is, "Where can I find the same car, in the same condition for that price?", because you're not going to be able to. Let them know that you aren't willing to settle for what's unfair. You are supposed to be compensated as to not inconvenience you. What's broken is supposed to get fixed/replaced, without providing a significant gain to yourself. Oh, and Seriously. I have a 73 that was t-boned in the driver's door that I'm cutting up. I know you're not close, but you can have the front clip if you want it. I'm sure you'll find parts cheap enough from the hybridz family. Then again, it's a serious repair project that you might not want to take one.

So John, how'd we do? Any sneak peaks for us? You know I'll be watching it!

There's no way I'd pay that kind of money for a MBC when you can make one yourself for less than $10. Google "DIY manual boost controller". For $180 you can pick up a cheap EBC.

Oh, and on the auto darkening hood discussion, I also have a cheap china-brand one, and it works well for hobby use. I really do prefer it over my friend's "middle of the road" model because his has preset darkness levels, where I have an actual adjustment knob. The $350+ autoglas helmets are really designed for someone who is going to be wearing it for more than 6 hours per day on a regular basis.

How bad is the hoov? The pics make it look like surface rust... Grind it clean and smooth it with icing to cover up the grinder bite marks.

Best way, imo, is to take a welding class at your local community college. I know we have a great program where I live, and you'll really learn a lot and the right way to do everything. If you know someone who welds, you can have them show you the ropes with a MIG machine and get you comfortable enough to play around with some sheet metal. I'd suggest practice on a parts car before you do anything major to your car, because fixing poor welding isn't fun or easy...

I find your constant impatience hard to believe. Give it a little bit, lighten the mood, and you might just get an answer. Do a bit of searching in the mean time, and see if you can come up with the answer on your own!

Can we get a pic from directly behind the car? It's looking great!

Nearly convinced? All it takes for me to be convinced is for Tony to say it's a good idea I'll be fixing this today.

My thinking behind looping the system was this: With the heater core in the circuit the coolant was able to flow the external route. Maybe this flow was only designated to provide heat to the cabin, but it might also serve to route coolant in the head. I wasn't exactly sure, but I knew that keeping the flow there wasn't going to hurt anything and I wanted to get my engine in asap. Can they be plugged without any adverse effects? Probably

160hp and a 15 flat in the quarter

check our b/s/t right now

I've always preferred the term, "one tire fire", but that's just me After playing with a friend's d50 I decided to take the plunge and pick up a DSLR too. Hopefully I'll like my d60 as much as you seem to like yours! Definitely jealous of the property there Doc

As per the group buy rules, they would have to be made before any money was collected... Looks like alright stuff though!

can you say b/s/t? I could see these selling very well if you wanted to make a few sets

Older mustangs share the 4 x 114.3 spacing. Many newer imports have it as well (I know the accord for sure), but the offsets aren't correct. You can run them with large spacers though.

ahhhh You are right! It's been so long since I've read through that thread. Do you have a set of quarter glass you can use to mock it all up with? I'll get a pic with some measurements off of one of my cars.

Thanks for all of the input guys! According to the poll, silver is best, but whit came in a close second being only two votes behind. I've recently been interested in doing a black on white color scheme, and I think the white will help hide any imperfections in my body work, making the car look more presentable to the buyer. I'm thinking I'll do the body/hatch/doors in white and the hood and bumpers in black. I may clean up the iron cross wheels and paint them in a semi-gloss black. Maybe a full gloss to match the hood? idk. Either way is going to be a lot better than the oxidized aluminum they are now!

I remember this being covered awhile back. Did you search?

As for people chiming in on the price wagon, I paid $250 for my Z therapy carbs right here in the b/s/t. I wouldn't ever spend what they are new, considering that I could get a FI system running for that much. For the price, MS or the 300zx ecu on a stock intake with stock injectors is going to be the best.