cockerstar

hmmmm Auto? It's a nice looking car, but the engine bay space in the z32 is ridiculous! It's really up to you, but know that the engine will be coming out of it. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of autos, so I might skip on it, but you could easily sell it for double in the states considering that it's rhd.

Are you looking for someone to fab one for you?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SFC01B If the needle did significant damage to the body of the carb, then it will need to be replaced, but if you didn't force it I think you should be able to replace the needles in it. You should replace the needles in both carbs at the same time, so an even amount of fuel is metered to the front three and back three cylinders, as they wear slightly over time.

Price shipped to 99337? How many miles are on it? Overall condition?

Thanks for the heads up. I was reading someone in AK had a 6 speed behind their l series, and just assumed that it was the KA tranny. I'm just looking for something with an OD

Just like the title says, I'm looking to buy a wood steering wheel. I'm sure many of you have gone with an aftermarket wheel and have the original one laying around. It's alright if it's in rough shape as long as I can get some pics of the damage post here and PM me Thanks, Ryan

Well, I'd just assumed that he would be stuffing his rotary into it! I didn't know Aux had any l6's left laying around Just wasn't 100% sure he had officially decided to exnay the previous swap, although this did seem to be a bit of an indication...

The more you can weld in the car, the truer the end product is going to be. I'd go a bit beyond tacking everything up before I would feel safe about unbolting everything without fear of anything shifting on me. As a side note: How did you find hybridZ?

What's the going rate to do a stock engine swap?

There's someting about that pic that makes it look like a miniature, or a toy car. I absolutely love you wheels though!

I love the fact that NLA items can sell for so much when all of us really don't car too much about the car being all original and stock I'm building a 355sbc with forged trw pistons for less than those tails are going for!

Is this to be your doner?

I have a perfectly straight and rust-free hood, but I have a feeling shipping would be high. PM me if interested

Hey guys, The tranny in my 240 is shot, and I have two spare four speeds I could replace it with, but I'm going to be doing a lot of driving across the state, so I would prefer to replace it with a five or six speed transmission. I'd be fine with a five speed from a 280zx, or a modded KA tranny that will fit the L series. I'd even be interested in an unmodded tranny that I could have the machine work done to. Idealy I would like to trade for the tranny, as I have a rust free parts car that is going to get cut up for patch pannels, but cash offers are acceptable. Please let me know what you have, Ryan

My bet is that your wastegate isn't able to bypass enough exhaust to keep the boost levels set where you're wanting them to be. You'll have the same issue of not being able to control the boost pressure over 12psi with your new set up unless you switch over to a larger external wastegate, or change turbo set ups entirely. With the new management, injectors, etc. you'll be able to safely handle that 15psi, but because your wastegate is too small you'll be pushing higher and higher levels of boost as you add more fuel and air to create a larger volume of exhaust which your wastegate will still not be able to vent, therefore building even more boost. Looks like the next step is going to be a new turbo Looks like you've got the disease!

In short, no. You have a lot of research to do. Start reading, reading, reading

Looks like a pretty decent base to start out with I'd just take car of the little bit of rust while you still have easy access to all of it, and then drop the engine in. It really shouldn't be too bad, and you'll have peace of mind knowing you have a nice rust free Z on the easy coast.

You could always look into getting your block done in high temp powder. PM Almighty Wez. He owns JNZ Finishing - http://www.jnzfinishing.com/ It would probably cost a pretty penny, but it would hold up forever...

Just curious I have one that I drew up in CAD, but never had a chance to get cut. How much did it run? I'm not seeing them on ebay, but I could just not be searching the right terms.

Loving both the custom intake and exhaust! I've been wanting to do the same for a set of turbo headers. Where did you get the flange from?

Hey Grumpy I've asked about this long ago back in post #25, but now that it's summer I'm really wanting to go somewhere with everything. I figured this one would be right up your alley. Goal is to have a running streetable motor for a '69 camaro that is as respectable as possible on a serious budget - right around $800. The idea is to have the car running and drivable, doing what we can with the budget. Here's what I already have to work with: 4 bolt main 350 (010 block) with stock lower end 462624 heads 76cc chambers - emissions friendly heads 307 block w/ stock heads and a mismatched (to say the least) cam .501 lift, 292dur edelbrock performer intake w/ 1" spacer freshly rebuilt holley 650cfm carb stock th350 long tube headers built th400 w/ higher stall converter My idea was to stick with the stock bottom end on the 350 and go with a set of 1.94/1.50, 64cc "Camel Hump" heads I found locally. Gasket match them, valve job, and decking. Another option would be a set of 882 heads with new valves,springs,retainers,locs, and 1.5 comp roller rockers, but they're a 72cc combustion chamber. Use the edelbrock intake and holley carb to keep things simple. This is definitely isn't a matched set up, but I'm thinking it could be on the mark considering the funding I have available. I'd need to pick a cam, and would love to upgrade the valvetrain if funding permits. Really, I'm just thinking out loud and am looking for some direction like I was before. Thanks in advance!

Anyone find out about the fit/quality of this piece?

I have a set of z-therapy carbs and absolutely live them! It's so much easier when your SU's work like they're supposed to. Super easy to tune, great response, awesome performance. Plus, that tone of side drafts (although they're no webbers) is unbeatable!

I would say compression test the turbo motor with 250k and see what it looks like. Install it and play around until: a) it blows up you're happy You could also so with slown280z's suggestion too. The stock n/a motors are pretty robust and will handle ~7psi all day long. I don't even think it would be necessary to swap the head. Just swap on the manifold, and some injectors. Tune around 7psi and then move it up. 17psi has been had on a stock n/a block with an intercooler and meth injection. In the mean time you can build the turbo block (3.1 stroker? ) and all of your intake and exhaust stuff will be able to be put on the built longblock, bringing you to your end result.

I already email about getting a group buy together