cockerstar

That's one of my top picks while staying in your price range for a DD if four seats were a requirement. Look into the impreza 2.5 rs as well. They get that subie look for under 5k. It was what I was saving for before I wan introduced to my Z two years ago Can you have a two seat DD?

Where did you paint the car at?

Looking good! You went about it a little bit differently than I would have, but it seems like things should all work out fine though I would have cut out a rectangular section from the original panel and cut one from the tailgate that was slightly bigger. Then you can place the lettering behind the original to tweak it to get the right curvature and then tack it into place, and you get to keep the original bottom body line. My vote is that you do a custom center exhaust or diffuser now How much did you pay for your tailgate?

Just got in contact with the seller again and he has a buyer driving up to get them for $250 today, so I let them pass. I was afraid of not being able to find a replacement for the jam nuts to hold the spring perches in place. I'm definitely interested in going to coilovers though Thanks so much guys!

Thanks so much katman! There's no way I would have found that out Is there a disadvantage of going with the aluminum threaded section? I've herd that suspension travel will chew the threads up and they will no longer be adjustable after awhile.

I found this 240z coilover kit for sale on craigslist, and the seller really doesn't know much about it at all. I was wondering if you guys could help me identify it for me. Also, do you see anything that's missing? I don't see anything for rear camber, but it seems like there's extra pieces to me...

Definitely watching here! I'm planning on doing this on the rear of my parts car to see how it looks and then transfering the whole panel over to my '71 When I shave the rear on it Pics of the process would be greatly appreciated! After patching a sunroof I think this shouldn't be too bad, but getting the contour of the rear might be fun...

Small world! I have the same wheels too. I wish they were as clean as Carl's

Running a felpro HG on a turbo motor is good insurance. When you get into the detonation it's going to be the first thing to blow, and I definitely favor spending my weekends changing a hg over rings.

hopefully I'll be around here long enough to hit the five year mark

I do now!

Can't wait to see what she runs! Very impressive

PM'd

Go off of the vin that's stamped into the firewall. The dash and the plate ones are very easy to change. Does the vin on the title match the dash/plate #, or the stamped number?

The head gaskets are different between the 240/260 and the 280

You need to be asking what the real difference between the 7mgte and the 7mge short and long blocks are. I'm not sure, but for $500 you could have a nice DD swap if you're alright with 250ish hp. Sounds like you want more though...

I definitely just lol'd at the table your intake is on. It looks a little dated You got a screaming deal on that donor and your intake looks great!

the sill plate? search it's been covered numerous times

At 300hp I'd definitely be going with a 240mm unit, and at 400hp I'd be going with an aftermarket 240mm one. From what I've read the bolt issue is solved by using flywheel bolts that are a few mm shorter, and if the flywheel has the pressed on steel ring I think it would hold up for "100k miles" without an issue.

Why not an aluminum Fidanza unit?

How much is he asking?

Well, I thought my points were good, but that was before I looked under the cap of a distributor on one of my parts cars! The point were free, but the po had left the cap off for ~14 years so there was some corrosion that wasn't obvious at first to me. Definitely not rust, but just a dull oxidation. As soon as I put the new distributor in I had spark Thanks so much for all of your help Mark! Definitely wouldn't have gotten this without you.

*puts on my best hillbilly accent* shoooooot So that's it? Lets see if she fires up now! edit: I swapped the wires on the + and - terminals of the coil, but I'm still not getting any spark out of it With the key in the "on" position should I be getting 12volts at all of the wires in my diagram? I have 12volts on both ends of my dropping resistor and at the + and - terminals on the coil when going to a ground. edit2: I just confirmed that the coil is getting power while cranking as well as in the on position. The voltage drops to ~9.5, but I'm assuming this is just due to the large load of the starter. Would this point towards a bad coil?

Well, I'm back in town now so I'm able to work on the car a little bit more. I grabbed the voltmeter and with the key in the on position I have my 12volts to the positive terminal on the coil, but I'm still not getting any spark from the coil output wire (to the dizzy) to a known ground that I used to see if I was getting voltage to the coil. Maybe the coil isn't getting the signal that the engine is cranking? Time to start hunting around with the voltmeter and a schematic... edit: I haven't found out much. All I discovered was a ground that was unhooked. I cleaned it up with sandpaper and screwed it back in, verifying it with a voltmeter. Didn't make any difference. I also verified that my points haven't seized up on me. Any clues?

Thanks Mark! I'm headed to the garage right now