tooquick260

so do you think I have damaged the turbo seals. Car has not run but 4-10 seconds at a time. Still not running as posted above think the AFM is shot

I have determined mine is toast. Please let me know. I live in Central Florida

Ok I have not checked the fuel injectors. That will be next. I have the battery in the back. Should I run a ground from the starter bolt to a ground point on the chassis? I have attempted to start 6 + more times. I pulled the spark plugs and they are sooted. Other issue I have now from trying to start is oil pouring out of the down pipe. I do not have exhaust past the down pipe. Could that be a bad seal in the turbo? I know that that would not stop it from running!!! Could this be a problem, as I was reviewing everything I noticed that my drain line kinked. Must have happened when I was tightening. I did do the FSM test of the AFM. From the computer side the ohms reading is 150. Should be between 280 and 400. Then checked the AFM and same thing the numbers are way off! Before I pull the turbo I want to make sure I have it running. Question on the turbo? I have a -4 steel braided line going to the turbo and drain is a -6. Is that large enough for the drain?

She is a roller!

AFM is unmolested as much as I can tell. Injectors sat for at least 4 years. I was reading that someone had an issue with grounds. Should I try to ground out all the unused wires in plug 2 and 3? Also does the ecu need to be bolted to the chassis and that is part of its ground? I have the ecu laying on the windshield not fully installed because I want to make sure everything works before installing it.

Ok finally got fuel pressure. Had the regulator after electric fuel pump and before the fuel rail. Never got any pressure on the gauge. So move regulator behind the fuel rail and BAM it fired on the first attempt, didnt run but it is firning and runs for 3-4 seconds. My dad is helping and he cant find his timing light but we played with the distributor full advance to full retard. Seems better at the middle of the adj in the distributor mounting. Am I suppose to have anything running to the ecu about oil pressure? For the short run that if burbles I get a little reading on the oil pressure. Just wandering if thats an issue. Does the CHT important for the car to run or is it optional? I have mine installed just wandering if it is an issue? Any one have advice as to what to look at now?

Hey, cgsheen! The black white wire to the coil that is ingition on, i think you call it the ignitor, which prong does it go to? The prongs are in a shape of a T. I have the black white going to the top of the T and the yellow white coming from the plug 2 to the other. My green wire is ignition hot and the grey/white wire is from the plug 2 yellow white?

Thanks cgsheen,,,, I will check that today. i don't think I had fire from that side of plug 2.

Thanks Domzs.....

Yes low pessure pump fills a surge tank where the battery used to be and then the high pressure pump feeds off the lower fitting on the surge tank!

Ok, so the car is together and only waiting on front spacers (they sent the wrong size by 1/8") to complete as a rolling ready to run car. I attempted to get fuel pressure today and no luck. I am getting fuel out of the pump. I have fuel thru the lines to the ruel rail but no pressure on the gauge. Would a high pressure pump that is not thru a regulator put out a lot of fuel? like fill up a 8 oz parmesan cheese container in seconds? Mine on five seconds only fills up about 2 ounces! Other issues are that I have no fire at the coil, no fire at spark pug, also where would the ignitor fire from? Issues, I am so close......

Yes the donor was a 2+2

Wiring mess. Fuel pump is in!

Drive shaft shortened and is installed

Yes you are correct. As the project started I was shooting for $800 to $1500 to go turbo. Well as things happen my brothers 300zx dropped a timing belt, ruined the head and he decided to move onto a newer car (F-RS). He donated what ever I wanted. As in any build the domino's fell and here I am! I am living at home and able to spend what ever I make on the car only because I got a new job making more money once the project started. I started budget minded and it has gotten out of control. As far as engine/fuel management goes I am planning on going with the Z31 distributor and ECU. But I want to get the car running with what I have and will shortly switch. The 2 week conversion has turned into 2 months. Martin of Z fever in Tampa has donated his skills to do the Z31 distributor and ECU conversion. Just have to get it to him. I want to make sure everything else is in place. He will retune the Z31 ECU with a enthalpy(spelling) tune. I figure that will be within the next 3 months. New parts arrived yesterday, will install today and try to fire the car. I was putting the last AN-4 fitting on the oil supply line and broke the fitting. Had to get a new one.

Good looking car. Definitely a start!

You could weld the 180, but still not a great option. Save your money for a real one or go with one of the swaps. You can install an OBX or Qaif or others out there for under the $1500. I hear ya about driving and enjoying. I have had some struggles on my build thats for sure.

Go mine from Technotoytuning. No issues. Said they had a good supply!

Somebody has to have some infor for this. Sorry you are have these issues. Take a step back and clear your head. You can figure it out.

Moving onto the throttle cable. I got a 27 in 70 cm ATV throttle cable. It ended up being a a little long. So I snaked it through the original throttle pivot rod. The large end of the throttle cable slid right into the 240sx throttle body's holer. The other end of the throttle cable had a small end peace. What I did was took the accelerator pedal and assembly out of the car. The stock throttle cable attached to the top via a ball and socket attachment. I drilled a hole in the ball ( not for the faint of heart) just big enough for the cables small end to pass through. Then put a small E clip on the cable to hold it in the drilled hole. Here are some pictures. Smooth operation works like a dream.

Onto wiring in the ECU, wiring harness and 280zxt distributor, coil. I really struggled with this. More wiring and reading than I have ever done. My recommendation is to make sure that you have the wiring diagram of the 260z and the 280zxt. The other thing that is the most important is the wiring diagram given to me by a member on another z website. I followed this to the T and it seems to work. The issue I had was my harness did not have the fuel pump relay. Had the wires going to it but not the holder or the relay. So I bought a new fuel relay and wired it into the cut wires on the harness. I ended up taking the coil bracket from the 74 260z and attached it to the 83 280zxt coil. Yes 2 brackets on one coil I did this because of looking at the 74's wiring harness, it has a fuseable links that are hot when ignition is on. I used this to get power to the coil of the 83 280zxt and to power the items on the above harness. What a mess. Its what I had to do to get it all to work. I picked up the drive axle today and installed it. It fit perfectly. I mounted the fuel pump here with the regulator. This is down from the surge tank. I put the surge tank where the battery used to be. I am filling the surge tank from the original gas tank via a 5lb fuel pump. I put tranny fluid in. My dad and gdad are Amsoil dealers. So I am using donated 75-90 severe gear. My dad ran this for years in is 1958 VW Beetle. He had 250 hp running thru the stock tranny with some trick parts. He ran NOS on that tuneup. Not bad for a 4 cylinder. Tomorrow oil in the motor. Run the spark plug wires the correct way. Check for leaks. Bleed the clutch master cylinder Bleed the brakes Check fuel pressure Check lash for valve adjustment If the car runs then I have to do something with the wiring. First put the ECU in the cabin run all the wires nice and tidy (HA) I will post as it goes.

Ok I got the car on the ground. Technotoytuning rear suspension. I went with just the Rear diff mount, mustache bar and rear coilovers. Well, not so quick. I assembled all the components and the diff would not clear the stock dog bone and the drop downs will not bolt up. So back on the phone and ordered the Technotoytuning drop downs and dogbone. I got them and installed with another issue. Here are the pics. Had an issue with the right rear has to much toe and camber. Un-adjustable and not acceptable. Back on the phone with Technotoytuning to order there rear lower arms. So I have now peaced together there entire rear suspension. Nice stuff but way more money than I had plan. I didn't leave it lowered like that I will have it close to where it sits in the garage. The new lower control arms are on there way. Will be here tomorrow.

Now since I am using the Z32 dif and Z32 rear brakes I wanted to also take advantage of the parking brakes. So, I am going to use the Z32 brake cables , they are a little long but if you extend them over the top of the dif to the opposite side back to the tunnel they will align with the S30 chassis's brake cable holders. I took the center holder that pivots forward when you pull on the e-brake handle and modified it. There is usually a hole in the end, I notched it so I could slide the 2 pivot pin ends from the Z32 cables in the center holder. Then I encapsulated the holder with 2 aluminum plates. The Z32 brake cables have 3 mounting points on them. The first bolts to the backing plate, thats easy. The other 2 are chassis mounts. I just mounted them to the underside of the tunnel to keep tension on the cables. Here are some pics. Works good so far. Have to try in the real world. The e-brake handle when pulled gets stiff on the 3 click and hard on 5th.

Well since no one can reply or post on the projects page I will update this thread. I am going to post all the pics that I have and comment on the next line. So that is the Britz blow off valve, coilovers from TechnoToyTuning, oil pan with drain welded in and the new spacers. I got 2- 5 x 114.3 1 1/4" for the rear and 2- that convert the front hubs from 4 lug stock to 5 lug. They were suppose to be the same width but came in as 1 1/8". The front tires do not clear the coilovers. So back to the mfr and they are sending new ones. There mistake and are paying the shipping. Just going to put a hold on the completion.

Ok, I have done more research and figured out that one wire was the 02 sensor wire. Other wires are connectors for the fuel pump relay which I don't have. Other one is the accessory relay holder with the fuel pump (green) plugged into it,,, wrong of course. The coil "T" looking wire plug is for an ignition on wire suppose to be a black with white tracer, the other leg side is a yellow with white tracer that goes to pug 2 on the main harness. Does anyone know where to get or have an accessory relay? I followed this diagram to a "T" Thanks to Nismopick on the other z blog site! Lots of information.