tooquick260

Found it something up with the rear window defogger. Pulled that fuse and no more blown fusible links. She is running and at the muffler shop now. Hopefully to the alignment shop today as well.

Ok so narrowed it to the rear window defogger. As soon as I pull that fuse out and put a new fusible link in now issues. Here is a pic of the damage. You can also see that the fuse blew on the tail light holder in the fuse box. You can see it started to melt the plastic holders for the prongs. So I need to do some back tracing trough those wires. Car starts and runs and drives, took it to the muffler shop and will work on the wiring after I get it back. Going to try to take it to the alignment shop today as well. If I have time. This is one thing I noticed under the dash. Looks like someone did some extra curricular wiring and soldering. You can see it at the top of the picture. It looks like a black with yellow traced wire that has been spliced back together with green wire. I will back trace those to see why this was done. Well anyways back on the road and running. Boost gauge hit 6 lbs so far. I havent really ran it hard yet. The tach is not working so Have to figure that out.

Dang it,,,, Got the turbo rebuilt and bolted back in. Started it up and backed it out the garage drove around the block twice, came back picked my dad up and it died. Blew a fusible link. Tried diagnosing and it blew 3 more. Also, a 20a fuse under dash blew. It is for the tail light. I am frustrated again. I drove this car for 20 minutes 3 different times before I took the turbo off. All i did was bolt it back in! I will dive into it again tomorrow.

Dang it, Ok so had the turbo rebuilt. New shafts, bearings seals, turbines. Everything but the housings. So put it back on, fired it up and took it for a ride. All was good. Made 2 laps around the block. Stopped picked my dad up and we made it half way around and it died. Looked and the fusible link was blown. Burnt thru the cover as well, dang it. Now all we did was remove turbo and re-install it. So I start unplugging all extras, first fuel Stock low pressure pump. Still blows fuse. Unplug the extra gauges, still blows a fuse. Also blew the 20a fuse for the tail lights during this. Getting some hot wires under dash in the passenger foot well. Any help suggestions would be great!

Great! Now i am blowing fusible links

I don't know much about this, but my dad had the Berg equalizer pulley on his 58 ragtop bug. On his nitrous setup 13:1 compression he left the starting line at 10,000. Shift light was at 9,400 rpm. Never had a bearing problem. Now nitrous blow ups yes!!!! One of his video's. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/MOV01367.mp4.html He said you can make em run. His had counterweighted crank and stock does not. But many would run stock cranks and turn that rpm but would tear down after each event, either replace just the bearings or replace block in its entirety. So from what all are saying. Do you recommend a balancer or not for our L series engines?

I can see a Z31 ECU in my future. Seems to be the least expense. Martin over in Tampa with Z-Fever says he will do a flash tune for me when I install it. He does the Enthalpy pronged chipped tunes. Martin did the last tune on my 240sx before it was stolen, he said he is willing to due a charity tune because of my loss. I think I am going to skip the Mega for now. Gathering parts for the Z31 stuff as it comes around. CG, since I am not running any of those AAC and Air Bypass, should I run a little higher idle to give more air for the rich idle? Or is that going to give it too much false information?

Great you have a nice driver... Daily Driver that is. Is this your first endeavor into megasquirt or have youhad it on other cars?

Dang CG.... should have just sent you a private message. So the drop in rpm comes thru from the CHTS! Get my turbo back on Monday all fixed no more leaking seals and new vanes,,,YAHOO time to drive!

Must be electric, on my 260 coolant housing it is the switch next to the coolant gauge sendor.

So with the mointing hole raised and the ratia must be larger you get a quicker press of the rod in the master cylinder. So if I lower mine I would get a slower activation of the rod going into the master cylinder. Less of a ratio.

I don't have a air regulator installed. Using an N42 intake with everything blocked off. so, why does a 74 datsun have a thermal switch? Car came with manual choke, no-fuel injection to deal with?

What is the specific job of this switch on a 74 260z? What does it do for a 83 280zxt? I have an ECU from an 83 in my 74 260z. Is it part of the cold start up? What part does it play in the running of the car? I know I don't need it, but when my car is gets to a point of warming up the rpms drop about 150 to 200 rpms is this because of this switch?

Yes thanks,, For sale Z32 ECU!!

Could it be the pedal ratio? If so how do you change the ratio? Does anyone know the ratio of our brake pedal? I guess I could get under there and try to figure it out.

Man they work really well as far as stopping. It will be interesting in the rain. Because when they hit they hit hard.

Ok, I have completed this install and it was not to difficult. Straight up by using the adapter/conversion made by gsxtcy here on the forum for the front caliper and rotor. For the rear I used Techno Toy Tuning. Both are straight forward installs. I also installed the Brake Master Cylinder and booster from the 93 300zx. Little modification to get the Booster in but not to difficult. I originally had the one way valve installed backwards on the booster. Made for a firm pedal and felt like you wouldnt be able to stop the car. So, switched that and now there is assist and boy does it boost. Problem is the brakes work to good. What does that mean. There is about an inch of free pedal then the brakes grab hard. Something I have gotten used to and can drive the car with out putting my face thru the windshield. But wandering if there is a way to get some more modulation. I think it is being over boosted. From what i have read this booster is a dual boost. Something about its boosted on both sides. Once depressed then the disc actuates the pressure on the part that boosts the braking. Well I know I am not totally clear but what can I do or is this what i have and live with what I got. I am not one to leave things alone so....

Wondering what nuts, or nuts and washers everyone is using to bolt there turbo to the exhaust manifold? Are you used anything special, do you use a lock washer. I removed my turbo and down pipe today to get the turbo inspected and rebuilt. 3 of the 4 nuts were on the loose side and 2 of the down pipes nuts were loose. When I re-install want to make sure that they stay tight.

Yeah for my learning developement I would like to build my own to. Since I have it running now It will give me time to save the money and learn some more. Issue now is the turbo is shot having it rebuilt.

Yeah I tried to push mine up there, didnt seem to work. The way I have it the ECU plugs are held in by the fire wall. I was able to get 2 of the 3 screws in to hold it in place. On another note. I took the Turbo off. Took it to a guy that some friends of my Dads recommended. The turbo is junk. Previous owner or someone had replaced the bearings but when the prior bearings went bad it ruined the blades. They are all rolled over. The seal is toast as well as the shaft. He says he has some parts laying around for this. He is going to see what he can do. Says it will be less than $300. He was saying that I wasnt getting but about 60% of the boost out of the turbo. When I drove it there was definitely a lay over once it started to boost. He should have it done by monday. Will report then. Took me 10 minutes to take it off probably take 3 times that long to get it on.

Well pulling the turbo off to get the seal replaced. Still getting oil and smoke coming out the tail pipe. Here is a pic of the interior. I used one of my dad's old round ball shift knobs. Looking for a new one. I have the stock leather shifter boot sitting there and will see about getting it to fit better. The S15 shifter is really fat at the bottom which makes it hard to tie the leather straps. Maybe I can sweet talk mom into making me a new one

Thanks for response. I am sure others have issues with heat. What are you doing about it? What are you using? Did you make a shield? Where did you put it?

Triple post

Double post

I am driving, fixing oil leaks and trying to figure out why I am smoking. I think my oil seal is shot in the turbo. Any updates this weekend?