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tooquick260

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Everything posted by tooquick260

  1. Well oil leaking out the turbo down thru the down pipe. Seemed to stop when I made a restrictor plate, took flat aluminum stock cut out a plate to fit the turbo inlet. Then drilled a .065 hole bolted it back in. But, one of the gaskets are leaking. So will remove tomorrow and reinstall with 2 new gaskets. Drove the car, man that turbo really sings with no back pressure, I don't have any exhaust from the down pipe back. Once I fix the oil leak off to the muffler shop. Here is a shot of my dad driving the car. The camera didnt start until after he was trying to slow down but you get a good idea of the turbo sound. Still burning off the oil in the turbo and the leak that is coming off the input line of the turbo. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/20130528_190443_zpsa9c4c0ee.mp4.html Brakes are really firm but felt like there is no boost to them. So took the one way valve off and guess what, its backwards. So I will re-install the correct way and drive it tomorrow. I installed the Aem O2 bung in the exhaust pipe. So now I need to install the air/fuel and boost gauge. I cut a 1 3/4 " below the clutch master cylinder and ran the ECCS wires into the engine compartment. Mounted the ECCS on the left wall . Here are pics.
  2. Ok,, updates. Took car to shop, Shop said I was a tooth off on the cam gear. Maybe maybe not. He stopped there and I brought the car home. Looked at it for a few more days and finally figured it out. The PVC hole on the underside of the N42 intake manifold. It was wide open no plug..... DUH. Plugged it and car fired right up and idled with no problem. So, tried the transmission and nothing. The clutch did not work. Had to pull the tranny out because the collar is the wrong one. Xnke sent the tranny with the correct one but my dad said it was the tall one. Anyway we pulled the tranny out and re-installed and the tranny works great. Brakes seem a little week. So I have to work on that. Other issue is the turbo is dumping oil. Seems I did not put the restrictor in the turbo oil feed line. So here is a little run of the car. Started and backed out of the garage and back in. Smoking to much from the oil seal issue. Ordering one tomorrow and will have fixed soon. http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/20130527_120834_zps7c6c607b.mp4.html Well by the end of the week should have it all buttoned up. I did get the wiring on the passenger side all tucked away nice and tidy.
  3. Yeah the clutch works and the tranny works... Now onto putting the wiring away. I did as much as I could, finished the passenger side, just need a 1 3/4" hole saw to run the ECCS wires thru the fire wall. Now still have to fix the turbo oil leak. Need a restrictor inline to the turbo. Also need exhaust, once oil leak is fixed will get the pipiing done. Then get an alignment and drive it like I stole it.
  4. I think its instantaneous. Works really good. If you have an I phone I would get the vidometer program. I think its 10$. You can use any holder for your phone, just the optrix gives you htat wide angle.
  5. I only have an Iphone. So I bought the Optrix XD You can download a program called Vidometer on your Iphone. It gives you all that info on the screen. Pretty cool. I mounted it on the back windshield facing forward. Here is the app in action!
  6. Great,,, looks like you are ready and had little issues except wiring and coils. Good job.
  7. FINALLY<<< FINALLY got it to run, rev and idle... Really stupid! I had no plug in the PCV hole. The N42 intake has it on the bottom just above the turbo.... Dang Plugged that and it fired right up. I have to mess with the idle screw. I have the 240sx throttle body and its upside down so I will screw that out a little and hold some rpm. It is all the way flush with stop. I could hold my foot at like 500 rpm and it would idle. Here is a few small clips of start up and then had an issue................ITS KINDA LOUD so turn your volume down. http://vid158.photobucket.com/albums/t85/melbellwood1/Tooquick260z/20130525_190752_zps61d3da73.mp4 Yes first signs of smoke..... more on that to come! http://vid158.photobucket.com/albums/t85/melbellwood1/Tooquick260z/20130527_120834_zps7c6c607b.mp4 Its alive,, wahoo! So my dad was sure that the clutch, flywheel combo I have needed the tall throw out bearing collar. So he talked me into buying a new one and I took the short one that Jacob sent with the tranny and use the tall one. Well the clutch was engaged and would not allow the pressure plate release. So I pulled the tranny tonight and switched. Here is a picture of the three I have. I am using the shortest one with a new bearing. The other issue I am having is the oil coming thru the turbo. It does not look like its gonna stop. I am going to put the tranny back in and make sure that everything works,,,,,,,,,all gears, rear diff, brakes, idles etc. Then I will pull the turbo and have it rebuilt or ..... Maybe upgrade?
  8. Ok, I will check the timing next time i run it. I was hoping that the computer would make up the difference if i was close. Again this is my first hands on for something like this. I had the cam 1 tooth off so it could be anything. That was verified by a datsun mechanic, he also pulled the oil pump to make sure I had the gear installed correctly. He was pushing the aftermarket engine management systems( he has used JimWolf). He just doesnt want me to keep chasing issues that are from 30 year old parts. Like you said if I can't make a true plug and play work what am I going to do with something custom built with a lot of things outside of my experience. I am going to get this to work even if its replacing each part one at a time till it is resolved. From the initial start chasing these issues it has been easier and easier to start. It also seems to be running better the more i run it. Another member has said that it will take a while for it to come around, because of the time these parts have sat. Question should I start it again with what I have and check the timing, if correct then keep running it to see if it comes around more? Or wait for the new AFM and CHTS?
  9. I am trying, hopefully the new afm and going to put a new chts in as well. I took the fpr apart to check. It is intact no signs of gas getting past the diaphrams. I will pull the vacuum line next time I try starting the car to see if any fuel is getting past the diaphram.
  10. The new o-rings did not help the car. It did git rid of the snapping that was coming form the intake. I was suppose to get the remanufactered AFM today before noon. The shipper did not mark for Saturday delivery. Being that it is a holiday weekend I have to wait to Tuesday. Man this is frustrating. I just want my car to run, no I want it to idle and purr like a kitten. Really want it to scream like a lion and purr like a kitten, am I asking to much. I did fix my fan from rubbing and have the thermo switch setup.
  11. Bolts directly into the frame would be great. How is this going ? Have you finished or made head way
  12. Ok, New news. Trying to get the car to run better my dad was running the car with me watching. I was standing at the left rear wheel and noticed a small flame coming out of the fuel rail/injector area. I had at least one of the injector seals leaking. I guess I couldnt see it sitting in the car seat, or standing right over the car. Removed the fuel rail and injectors and have multiple issues with the seals. So went to local parts store and got some new ones The first thing I am doing this morning is installing them and fixing one of my fans that is rubbing on the radiator. I have been able to run the car at higher rpms but not idle and have throttle response with modulation of the pedal. The car will not stay running at an idle but hold at about 1500 rpm. At least I have found somewhat a smoking gun.I also used a can of CRC Electric contact cleaner. I sprayed all the connections from the ECCS to the AFM to the fuel injectors etc. I did this about 5 times between running the car at different times. I was trying to get some time on the motor to break in the cam. I got about 4 runs at 5 minutes at a time holding the rpm at 2000 to 2500 rpms. Hopefully this fixes the no idle issue! Stay tuned.
  13. Well I got the second AFM. No cover very sketchy looking. Installed and it starts better but runs like crap. Have run it 6 times for about 10 minutes total. I have another AFM coming tomorrow. I am going to start it and let run to see if running it gets better. Going to look at each connector to make sure they are clean , look for vacuum leaks. I am looking at a standalone system but just don't have the reserves to outlay that right now. Will take me another 4 weeks to get back on my feet and have the cash to put away for the standalone. This is what I was thinking for a standalone. DIY/Megasquirt. MS3X357-C_BL Assembled Megasquirt-III V3.57 with MS3X MOD_2357IGN1: Single Ignition Output through BIP373 coil driver MOD_x357-12vIn: 12v Pullup on the Ignition Input TW_L28ET 54mm optical disc for L28-T JimStim-C Assembled JimStim diagnostic board StimPower Power supply for JimStim MSHarness8 8' main board wiring harness MS3X-Hrn8 8' MS3X wiring harness IATwPiggy Intake Air Temperature Sensor 38NPT-Bung_A Aluminum bung for IAT sensor (Also available in stainless steel) MS3TuneCable USB communications cable for MS3 My dad has a LM-1 that I can use for the wideband setup. Thats where I am at now!
  14. Hey Andy, I have a N/A Z32 computer out of a 93 300zx automatic. Any options of using this on my S30 L26ET? I have stock L28ET injectors, stock turbo, P90 turbo head and turbo distributor.
  15. Where are you putting your boost gauge? On the pillar? I was thinking of making another gauge hole in the dash. I will let you know how it works out. I am taking the clock out and putting in a air/fuel gauge. i want to put the boost gauge in a hole between the tachometer and the first gauge. My dad says you can just form it out of foam or fiberglass or bondo to look like the stock gauge holes.
  16. Yes,,, i should have done that already. With what I have spent AFM$, and mental masterbation I could have done any one of those..
  17. Thanks,, I am waiting for a working AFM. Bought one off of a hybridz member.
  18. That was what I had on my N/A setup. Now that its turbo, stay tuned.
  19. Xnke has told you everthing. Just for an example. I just put a P90 cylinder head on an L26. If I would have just bolted it on the compression would have been below 7.0 to 1. Way to low. So I had a 0.080 fly cut on the cylinder head. When I did this I had to put shims under the cam towers and buy new longer valves and some valve spring shims. This is to get rid of the slop in the cam chain as well as the lash for the rocker arms. There is a member here that sells these, Derek. Lives in Florida. I used the stock size bolts to bolt the cam towers on. My question is why do you not have any compression. Are your springs not tight holding the valves to the seats? Are the seats egg shaped out of round to release compression? How are your rings on your pistons? Was this head on a running motor or did you put a new cam on this motor? I.E. this is a totally new setup on the head and the head on the motor?
  20. Ok I see what you did, The brass looking thing you have in line, is that stock? or something you picked up somewhere else.
  21. As the others have said. Swap in a L28 motor, I would source a complete L28 turbo. They are available and not to expensive. Your least expensive alternative. I am doing it now the hardest way in putting a turbo on a non turbo motor. I could have bought an RB motor for what I have done. Read everything and ask questions. Good luck
  22. Looks Good@ I should have done mine before installing. I will put the blanket on the turbo though. I was thinking of copying the stock heat shield from my N/A setup. OldAndy, what are you doing about your breather coming off the engine. Are you going to vent to a tank?
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