pat1

I pm'ed you. I see you could not put them in with the trans connected right?

looks great Tanuki, I glad everything worked. Now I can sleep tonight LOL. I think nissan put two different oil pan mounting holes because of some of the vehicles were all wheel drive and needed the aluninum oil pan with the diff in the pan and some were not. But who knows. I know Mazda does some wierd stuff like this. It was nice chatting with you on the phone Saturday night.

I just wrote a write up on the wiring which includes the tach hookup. I installed my rb20 with the stock skyline mounts and I modified the stock Z trans mount. Search my posts and you will find all the info you will need. There is a few pics if my set up also on this forum. I used the stock Z driveshaft also. You will need a rear sump oil pan which I can build for you if you like. There are tons of pics of my work on this forum also. As for the ecu I used the one that came with my swap. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll be glad to help.

Man that sucks. I hope it gets easier for you. If you want fab up a template for the motor mounts and trans mount and ship it to me and I'll make you a set of mounts.

wiring guide for installing a rb20det in to a datsun Z I'm hope this will help some people wire up a rb20 into there datsun Z. The wiring is very easy and anybody can do it. If you have installed a radio,cd player in to any car YOU can do this. First thing install the engine and run your wiring harness in to the cabin. Find a spot on the drivers side kick panel to mount the ecu. I have a 280z so I put the ecu in the stock location. here is the pin out diagram for a rb20det. FireShot Screen Capture #375 - 'RB20_ECU_Pinouts_jpg (800×459)' - wiki_r31skylineclub_com_images_9_9b_RB20_ECU_Pinouts.pdf http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/9/9b/RB20_ECU_Pinouts.jpg study this and print it out. Here is the wiring guide for the rb20 **Edit** Link Dead > http://www.rbforums.org/pics/rb20.jpg print this also you will need it. Ok now it's time to get to work on the wiring. On your rb20 loom you will find a connector thats on the same loom as the connector for the airflow meter. The connectors you are looking for is a two 8 pin connectors. One is blace and the other is gray. On this connector you will find 3 wires that need power. 2 for the wires need constant power from the battery. They are a white wire with a purple tracer(W/P) and a white wire with a black tracer (W/BL) and the next wire will need a switched power. Meaning that it needs power with the ignition on that wire is Black with a red tracer(B/R). You can find the constant power and the switched power off the wiring going to your ignition switch. This is easy to find using a test light or a DVOM meter. Next you will need to wire up the fuel pump. First thing you will need is a 30 amp relay connect one side of the relay using your ecu pin out print out I provided above connect one side of the relay connector 86 to switched power(Meaning power with the key in the on position). connect the other side relay connector 85 to wire from ecu terminal 18 which is the Black wire with purple tracer (B/P) Now connect the relay connector 87 to the wire going to the fuel pump and connect the relay connector 30 to a body ground now with the key turned to the on position you should hear the fuel pump running Now it's time to hook up your alternator,starter and reverse switch on the trans. I used this page to convert my alternator to a internal voltage regulator. FireShot Screen Capture #376 - 'Nissan_Datsun Z Car Voltage Regulator Conversion' - www_zcarcreations_com_howto_voltreg_htm.pdf http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm this is a very good write up on converting your alternator. Hook up your stock reverse light wiring to the rb reverse switch. I used the stock z speedo sender, I just swapped out the rb for the stock z speedo sender. I had to trim down the holder down abit with a grinder. hook up the power cable to the starter and ground out your negitive battery cable to the block as it was on the stock Z engine. Now for the gauges I used autometer gauges, Which is alot more relieable than the 30 plus year old z gauges. I used this diagram to hook up my autometer tach to the rb Now there are a few more wires that need to be hooked up and then you are done. pin number 44 on the ecu is the neutral switch there is two ways to hook this up. One way is just to ground it out or run a wire to the neutral switch on the trans. This wire tells the pcm thats is in neutral. Now you need to hook up the start signal pin number 43 to the signal wire going to the starter solenoid this wire powers up the iac valve and the ecu tell the iac vale to idle up. This wire NEED to be hooked up or it will start like crap. You can hook this wire to the back of the ignition switch Black wire with yellow tracer (B/Y) Now with the ECU disconnected check all the powers and grounds at the ecu with a DVOM meter. And then you are done. This is easy.

The wiring is a cake walk. It's easy there is about 10 wires. I was thinking a out doing a write up like the one on the rb25 wiring but I have been so busy building these rb rear sump oil pans. If I get time tonight I'll go out and write all the wiring down and post it up.

this is my cheaper ,more cost efficient rear sump oil pan. I call it my "economic recession pan" LOL. Ask for it by it's name. I know I know I'm bored. It has everything the other pans have same baffles same design but I used your stock front sump pan flange. Check out the pics

I'm glad you got it back.I don't know what I would do if mine was stolen.

You got it back? That's bada$$ man. Is it messed up at all?

this is what I used with a autometer Gauge. I don't know if it will work but it's worth a try

That would not cause the problem your having. You have a internal mafuction of the master cylinder. A seal or oring or a cup is damaged causing the internal leak in the M/C.

I would say the master cylinder is junk. The fluid is bypassing the seals in the master cylinder.

looks great man. post more pics please

Zreddy's pan is done here are some pics

I know, I remember it also and it was not that long ago. This one post every few days is getting old.

you can't tune them. something with the eprom.

I have always bought my gauges from summitracing.com. They have good prices and fast shipping. Sometimes you can find coupons on the net for them also.. Just google summit racing coupons.

Off the top of my head it sounds like you have everything. I would put a new timing belt, tensioner,idler pulley and a water pump. And a t-stat. I have coilovers on my car with heavier springs. I put the Toyota 4 piston calipers and the bigger master cylinder. I still have the stock rear brakes. The brakes work great for the street.

You will need a intercooler and piping, get a walbro inline fuel pump. As far as the crossmember goes I modified it by drilling two holes in it and grinding down the sides a bit so the z crossmember will fit right on. I had to slot the stock engine crossmember forward about 1/4 inch and the motor and trans dropped right in.

Holy cow, 500.00 for a gasket set

I can tell you the difference between the series 1 and 2 motors but as far as what car it came from I don't know. I found the easiest way to tell the difference between the two is the ignitor chip on the back of the engine on the plug cover thingy. The series 2 has the ignitors built into the coil packs. I hope ths helped with something.

The rb20 would be easier. I used the stock skyline motor mounts and modified the stock z trans crossmember to use the rb trans mount. With the rb20 you can use the stock z driveshaft. The wiring is cake. It's less than 10 wires plus gauges. The rb25 is the same but you need motor mounts that run 475.00 from Mckenney motorsports or you can make your own. You have to get a driveshaft made which is about 250-400. The wiring is also easy. Tuning is easier with the rb20 vs the rb25. With the rb25 you can't use the stock rb25 ecu. You have to use a rb20 or z32 ECM. All and all the rb20 is a little easier and cheaper. It's how much power you want. My rb20 is perfect for me. It hauls a$$. And revs to the moon.

I was trying to get paid for my time LOL

this guy had me help him pick this car up yesterday with a entire uhaul truck full of parts for 240z,260,280z. I was like a kid in a candy store. Stay tuned guys I going to build a killer ALL aluminum rear sump oil pan with a internal oil cooler set up. It's going to be TRICK. I can't wait. Back to the car It's in real good shape and it's begging for a rb LOL..

you can make you own for less than 2 bucks