pat1

there is a ton of info on the rb part on this forum. The swap is pretty straight forward. I did a rb20 swap in my 280z and I found it easy. I decided on the rb20 because of the cost. I have seen the rb20's produce about 400hp and that more than enough for my datsun. I have about 1500.00-1800.00 in my swap before I added everything like a bigger turbo,injectors and NIStune and etc. Thats 1500.00-1800 with it running and driving. I added everything else after the swap. The only part thats a pain to find is the rear sump oil pan which nissan does not make anymore. Thats where I can help you. I have been build custom rear sump pans for the rb swaps for the s30's (see my posts on the rb engine part on this forum) Please let me know if you have any questions about this swaps. I would be glad to answer any questions.

When you spin the cas by hand can you hear the injectors click? Who did your harness? I think the problem is in the wiring. You have swapped all the main sensors. I would grab a meter and check out all the wiring. There is a sticky at the top of the page. For some reason your not getting signal from the PCM.

I have a gianttech plasma,arc,tig machine and it works great. I don't have any complaints. It doesn't weld as good as my Miller syncrowave 200 though but it does the job. It came with a warranty for 3 years and the customer service is awesome. I had a problem with my food pedal and Larry (the Gianttech guy) fixed the problem fast. I use the plasma part all the time and it has never let me down.

are you getting the negitive signal to the ignitor from the pcm? Do you have power at the coils? Are you getting - signal from the ignitor to the coils? There are 3 wires going to the coils. You have a power,ground and a signal wire from the ingitor. Is you pcm a manual or a auto transmission pcm? I have a auto pcm that I used on mine and there was a wire to the pcm that had to be grounded to start. It was the wire from the inhibitor switch from the auto trans range switch. I had sort of the same problem with mine but it would happen when I was driving it and then I would loose spark and the car would stall out and not start. My problem was the PCM.

your right, it is in the stock cooler. I'm running a rb20.

why don't you use the stock oil pressure sending unit hole in the block. That's what I did with mine. As for the oil temp I would put it in the line to the oil cooler or in the pan.

looking good man. I like that color

Thanks Joel Here are some pics of a pan that I finished tonight for Flexall..

When I went with the rb20 I wasn't looking to make massive power (I have my 300zxtt for that). I wanted to make around 250-300hp whick is easy with the rb20. The datsuns weigh 2100-2700 lbs slap 300hp in it would make a very fun street car. I think anymore than that would get me into alot of trouble LOL.

I can do the rear wheel drive pans in about a week and the all wheel drive pans take a little longer.

here are some pics of Zreddy's pan that I have been working on. Zreddy wanted a dipstick mod on the pan. This pan is for his rb26.

I got mine at harbor frieght for about 50 bucks. It bends 16 gauge steel perfectly. I want to get a box pan brake next.

I went with the rb20 because of the cost and how easy this swap is.

Yes I can do the pick up also. I charge 475.00 for the rear wheel drive block and 575.00 for the all wheel drive block plus shipping. That includes the custom pan,a modified pickup and sealant to seal the pan to the block. Let me know if you need one, I'll be glad to make you one.

Yes I can do aluminum now. I sent you a pm

It's the geometry of the top plate that I had a problem with. I don't think you will have a problem with that shifter.

U can but I believe the Silvia diff is a short nose r200 and the r200 out of a datsun is the long nose r200. You would have to modify everything to make it work. You can make it work though. I know I have read about doing the swap on this forum. Check in the driveline section

I thought the same thing. I bought a short shifter and it wouldn't work. I was about to order another shifter and found out that there isn't a short shifter for a rb20. I found this link above. I was going to order a ka striker arm but I decided to modify the stock rb striker arm. I cut the arm and added 15 mm to the shaft and welded it all together. Then it fit like a dream. I also had to drill another hole on the shifter housing to fit on the rb trans and then fill up the other hole on the shifter housing.

I thought the same thing. I bought a short shifter and it wouldn't work. I was about to order another shifter and found out that there isn't a short shifter for a rb20. I found this link above. I was going to order a ka striker arm but I decided to modify the stock rb striker arm. I cut the arm and added 15 mm to the shaft and welded it all together. Then it fit like a dream. I also had to drill another hole on the shifter housing to fit on the rb trans and then fill up the other hole on the shifter housing.

I had the same problem with mine. see this link http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=112010

That's a tight fit. Looking good, great progress

Why is it so slow here lately? 1 post a day. I just have to ask because I'm getting bored at work. LOL

I picked up a new sheetmetal brake and other toys to make these oil pans this past couple weeks. I have been playing with all the new sheetmetal tools, Check out this pan I built for RB240AFZ. And I picked ut a new tig welder Miller syncrowave 200 ac/dc. Now I CAN DO STEEL AND ALUMINUM

If you can get the part number any nissan dealer can get the parts. I ordered parts from 2 dealers on the west coast. Z1 motorsports started carrying parts. Ebay has tons of rb parts. Put it this way you can find any part for a rb on the internet.