240hoke

it does look cleaner, and besides a little water never hurt anybody I will say though that the job isnt fun at all. When you cut off the drip rail you must weld back the seam. For me this was very hard, the metal is very thin and wouldnt weld clean. I had to weld and grind about three times before i was satisfied and had a soild weld... not much fun at all... but id say its worth it. Heres a picture: sooo... 1.) Pull off chrome strip 2.) Cut pinch seam off leaving a little lip 3.) tack weld the seam every couple inches 4.) Weld the thing up (remember to melt the factory leading out in the windshield seam and c-pillar seam) 5.) Grind it, bondo it 6.) paint it

looks like possibly a wasted spark setup where he is firing two coils at once by controlling the ground... i dunno *shrug*

looks to me like it was designed the same as scottieGNZ's old l28et setup. The reasoning in the turbo crossover pipe is to keep the distance traveled by the cooled air after the intercooler to a minimum, preventing it from heating back up again like it would if it went back by hte radiator... oh wait did i make those i/c pipes lol Btw -- Looking awesome mike cant wait to see it all finished

neat idea but seems like alot of weight and space taken up. Whats the downside of retrofitting some type of coil-on-plug system like many modern cars use such as BMW and the z32 (i think). These could be mounted easily and seems as if htey would provide more then enough spark. -Austin

Awesome! that turbo loooks sick. I too agree with mike that I/C pipe is little too close to the exhaust manifold, might also look at some shielding for the master cylinder brake booster area.. if you havent already maybe i cant see it. -Austin

Wow i didnt bother to read the whole thing maybe ill start explaining

TIG welding is awesome and great for fabricating suspension, exhaust manifolds, i/c pipes and the like where you are working with new metal and close tolerances. TIG welding is SLOW and PRECISE. I wouldnt even think about doing a set of floor pans or any rust work with a TIG welder. I have been getting alot of practice TIG welding and it is really nice to be able to control the heat and lay down pretty welds. Not to mention of clean it is. But for the average person rebuilding a car I would say get a MIG. Sooo... What are you planning on doing? From the sounds of it you want to do exhaust, body, and rust work. In that case the only way i would go is MIG

Hobart 180w 220v Gas Shielding i see as a necessity. much easier to weld with and will turn out a much high quality weld with less contamination. I bought my welder, gas, and supplies for right at 1000, and I love the unit works jsut fine for me! Btw this topic has been covered ALOT might want ot search before somebody gets on to you lol -Austin

i should clarify - brooke burke is on my desk top.. the lotus is on my laptop.. -Austin

Whats the story with this car? All i know is it looks bad as hell and now resides on my desktop.

what a beautiful car, havent seen many in silver. Im jealous, i think im gonna go talk to my brother now! And that video oh my does that car sound nasty Looks like the driver certainly has his hands full, i love hte horn blow right before the spin. Great vid!

Thats definitly an early car. I have a 1971 240z and it has the vent emblems on the c pillar. The period between 71 and 72 got kinda mushy with which cars has what but as far as i know the 240z emblem is a sign of a 70-early71 car. Let us know when it was made!

BUY IT or else youll have some serious regrets, not to mention its the smart thing to do.

I have a buddy who went out to 3.2L. Block cracked within a few miles of running the thing. turns out there was a casting defect in that particular block. Which i would assume is rather common. He bought a brand new nissan block and checked it before boring back to 3.2 so far as i know its fine now. 3.0 i thin is the safest option... -Austin

I assume you have but....did you check the oil return from the turbo? I have seen blocked or kinked oil return lines cause oil to just pour from the turbo. Absolutly beatiful car btw I love it. -Austin

electrical on both

Thanks for all the complements! On the subframe connectors -- they are pete's design here he was the original designer of the z s/f connectors, so props to him! If you search on his website he added some flat steel pieces to transition from the floor to the s/f connectors. Ive tried sitting in the car and working the brake and clutch and didnt have any issues at all so i left it how it is. I do have small feet though.. anyway I may add something later. I am soo ready to drive the car... really really really hoping to have her done by the end of november as that will be exactly one year from when i bought her and did the complete tear down. If you guys are interested in more pictures you can visit http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/austin -- its old stuff though i will be working on getting some new things up. -Austin ps. mike - due to the circumstances i wouldnt be mad to much but given there is absolutly no communication from alex i believe i am getting the run around...

Ouch! Hate to see something like that happen especially to such a beatiful car. Looks pretty easy to fix though... You guys dont have to have the police there when there is an accident?? Thats crazy, what if the other guy just decides he didnt do it? I dont think I can claim damage without a police report, nor would they talk to me before the police report was processed. Course insurance companies are the biggest rip off ever, I got hit by a drunk guy without insurance - did 2K to the back of my bimmer - long story short i didnt get ****. But anyway Police come for door dings here lol....

I wired mine up without any problem, im running an IR unit though. gimmie a couple hours Ill try and snap a picture of my wiring. I used some wire and a 220v connector from lowe's (or home depot) they had everything i needed.

hey guys, thanks for the compliments so far. Those last picture were a little dark so i snapped a couple this morning in the light. Like i said before everything is mocked up jsut waiting for the motor. And on that note i wanted to add again that i have yet to recieve my pistons from Alex costa, I thought things had been straightened out. But he still has not com through on his second promise and i cannot get in touch with him. But anyway.. ENJOY!! -Austin Hoke

hey, can you check and see what the offset is on your wheels?? i believe MSA sells 0 offeset for panasports. Thats what i was running before with only minor rubbing and 225's but my car is a bit lower so i thought -11 would be fine. Oh well.

Dont use any type of baffled muffler, like a flowmaster. They add more backpressure then you think and rob power from a turbo setup. I ran a flowmaster race muffler on my l28et and it was horrible. Magnaflow straight muffler or similar worked wonders. But forget all that, turbos are mufflers! run straight pipes!

It is hitting the outside corners not the center. Ans it contacts the wheel where there is a slight taper up toward the center section. With the wheel seated I can turn the wheel with just my hands so its hitting ever so slightly. No I didnt try the washer trick, I'm back at school for the week soooo tryign to figure it out here. I know they wont hit with 1/4" spacer because one of my stubaxles isnt all the way seated, its about 1/8" out and it doesnt hit. Ive been waiting for my wheels to torque the stub axles down so i could do it with the car on the ground.