Six_Shooter

That's what I'm running and it's been fine. I have the Cardone 15/16" master.

If I had the guts (or real need to) flare my car out, this is how I want to do it. Keep the lines of the car intact, but accentuate them.

No numbers yet, still want to do some tuning before I go to the track. It seems quicker than the turbo L28 so far, which it should be, and I know it will be for sure once I get the boost up, and tuned. Thanks for the compliment.

Are you guys talking about the oil feed from the engine to the turbo? Why not just grab some 1/4" brake line and bend it up yourself? On previous engines I've used Teflon braided line (like Earls/Russel/Aeroquip sell), but used 1/4" brake line on my L28, because I was running the line under and very near the exhaust manifold, and while I've never had a problem with the teflon braided lines meting I didn't want to take that chance and used teh hard line that I new would survive just fine. I used 1/4" brake line on my new engine, because I wanted a certain look to the install, where I used as little braided line as possible.

8.3:1 SCR is LOW compression to me, far too low for even turbo engines IMO, with today's technology. I just swapped out my turbo L28 for a completely different engine earlier this month. It was a flat top L28 (F54/P90), that I have BEAT on for the last 6 years, with upwards of 20 PSIG of boost. For those keeping track, that's 8.8:1 stock SCR, and it worked just fine. Stock (N/A) oiling system, I modified my oil pan, but if I had the turbo oil pan, I would have just swapped it on. I was (and still am) using a Delco ECM (From a late '80's/early '90's Sunbird or Syclone/Typhoon) and some custom code. The "trick" to keeping your turbo'd engine is alive is not so much the hard parts (they do factor in), but more so how it's tuned. You can have all of the best of the best parts on an engine, but if it's tuned poorly, it won't last. On the flip side, you can use junkyard parts, and OEM parts with a good tune (How I do things most of the time), and have engines live for a long time with many hard and abused miles. FWIW, my new engine has 9.8:1 SCR, yes, nine point eight to one SCR, is bone stock (other than valve springs) and so far I've been running about 10 PSIG on it, with plans to go quite a bit more. I don't have a direct comparison of flow numbers for both engines at these boost levels, but as it is, I can guarantee that I'm moving more air now with less boost on this new engine compared to my turbo L28 with much more boost. I'm running a GM V6 now, so it's not a great comparison, but my point is that compression ratios are nearly irrelevant any more when it comes to turbocharging engines. There are other factors that have greater influence on how well and engine will survive with boost. Using low compression was an old way to combat pre-ignition when the combustion chamber design and fuel and spark controlling technologies were no where near what they are today. Even with the old combustion chamber and port design that the L28 has, you can still run plenty of boost for some great fun, as long as the fuel and timing are well controlled, of which there are many options out there for this.

If I'm selling a stock vehicle, that I still have insurance on, I will allow test drives, but my ass is in the passenger seat when it happens. If I were to sell a toy/project, you'd have to be known to me, or have some good references from people I know, that is if I have insurance on the car. When buying old cars, even test drives guarantee nothing. You could go for a test drive, where everything works perfectly, but then as soon as you pay and pull away the engine falls out. I've never test drove any of my vehicles before I bought them, well that's not entirely true, I did sorta test drive my '98 Malibu before I bought it, but it was owned by a friend and I took it for a drive months before he decided to sell it, and I told him that when he was ready to sell, to let me know. When buying old cars, it's always a risk, no matter how you have it inspected, or how much you look at it. There is no "red flag" to not having a toy/project with road coverage (insurance).

I use a 9/16" drill bit for 3/8" NPT holes. As you found out, in thinner materials you need to cut the thread a little at at time and check with an NPT part or pipe, for depth of fit. I used that exact same location for my MAT sensor as well. IIRC I don't think I actually needed to drill it, I think it was close enough to start with, Then again that was 6 years ago, so the details are a bit fuzzy.

Well, I guess I'll have to start it, since I finally got my swap running on Sunday. GM LX9 (with LA1 upper intake to make the initial swap easier), Borg Warner Turbo from a 6.5L diesel, same turbo I used on my L28, mated to a Nissan FS5R30A trans. I can't believe 535 views and I'm the first to post something months after this thread was created... come on guys, show off your "other engine" swaps!

Always good, when you can post about a situation like this later, and in good spirits about it.

I have to ask, has the author actually done testing to confirm this, or is this just assumption? Now, I don't support "counterfeit" parts, or things branded as something they are not (Same reason I HATE kit cars), but just because something is cheaper does not automatically mean it does not work as well. Obviously people try to cash in on brand names, by making these counterfeit products, but if there's one thing that I've learned over the years of buying products, price does NOT dictate quality.

E.T. and MPH are not tied together. Most of the time my quickest passes are some of my slowest, meaning the E.T is low, but the MPH is also low, compared to some of my slower passes (E.T wise). Usually this is an indication of one run dead hooking and applying all of the power, while another is slipping at least a little bit, or slipping more than another run.

There was no V8 in that car, unless they used an adapter to keep the stock Nissan trans that is still in the car, or decided to slide the Nissan tans back in after removing the V8 for some reason. There are different ways to make the engine mounts, which could use the stock mount pedestals, or something completely different. The kid probably thought it had a V8, because of the Accel coil and Holley fuel pressure regulator, both of which could be used on most any carburetted engine.

Oh, you're running boost? Yeah you should be able to hit 13s easily. I was consistently low 13s with a tired L28 and street tires. Although I was running upwards of 17 PSIG of boost, you're probably a lot lower than that. The 60' time is about what I was able to achieve, but I never did get my launch tuning sorted out, I got it close, but not as dialed in as I would have liked. I would launch around 2500 RPM, for best results in my case, I was running a 3.90 diff and ZX 5-speed. I was shifting at 6000 RPM, and would sometimes short shift 1st to 2nd at about 5600 RPM. Are you not able to actually tune the Z31 ECU? That will help open up a lot of power and get you where you want to be.

Well, you're having the same problem I am, getting off the line. The 14.1 pass has a much better 60', which is an indication of a better launch than the other pass. If you can get the 60' down, that's where you'll find your 13 second pass. If you compare the two passes you'll see that the same .2 of a second difference from the 60' is pretty much carried through the entire pass. Because of this it seems that your car is working well, once you're past the 60', so get the launch down and you'll be there. I say that it's working well, because there was no additional drop in E.T. after the 60' from one run to the next. Usually if there's anything to be gained throughout the entire run, you'll see approximately 2 tenths dropped off the 1/4 mile E.T. for every 1 tenth dropped off the 60' time (general rule of thumb). This is not shown in your case, so, just work on those launches. Reaction Time (RT) has zero effect on actual E.T. This is only an indication of how quickly you reacted to the light going green. I usually wait until the last yellow is just turning off and let out the clutch, usually with in the .500 to .600 range when I do this (.500 is a perfect light on a sportsman tree). Reaction time only really counts when you're trying to actually race and beat someone. Some races are won on reaction time alone, when two cars that are so evenly matched make the exact same pass, teh one with a quicker reaction time will win.

Since you want to use the mechanical pump, I assume this is a carburetted set-up? If so, you shouldn't need a regulator, when using the mechanical pump.

Either straighten out your existing chassis extension, or replace it. The entire area helps everything line up properly.

Are you still looking? I have one for sale.

In reviewing the SDS system, it's an a simple on or off valve, not a variably adjustable IAC valve, like what is being discussed here. The GM IAC requires a specifically shaped port/seat in order to work properly.

I'm using a throttle body from a 3400 (3.4L V6), because I have a few, and have all the connections I needed for my Delco ECM. It's 56mm. There are plenty of others of various sizes that will work. This is just what I had on hand to use. It required a custom adapter. Here is probably the best picture I have uploaded of the adapter and throttle body: Here is the engine as it is running that shows the bracket and cable attached: It wouldn't clear when I was using a dizzy (first few months after my conversion), so I simply flipped it over:

What aspect do you think is lacking? Do that next.

Technically I'm using a GM IAC motor on my L28 intake... I'm using a GM throttle body, that has IAC provisions. Just FYI, the PWM motors, such as the FORD IAC valve, are not just simply on and off. By varying the PWM signal it will control how far the pintle in the IAC valve opens. I assume this is for use with a MegaSquirt system?

At least you have leads on some that should be available. I'm looking for one that no body seems to want to sell me. Long out of production, and everyone wants to keep it.

Or you could make a block off plate that installs into the turbine housing, where the center section would have. I've seen that done a couple times, easier than all of the work to keep the center section compressor for looks. OR

For once we agree on something. Without finding what the other end of the wires are connected to, there's absolutely no way to know what it is, and even then, it can be speculation.

Have you followed the wires yet?