Six_Shooter

After reading this thread the other day I noticed that my glove box does not match my dash, and I believe both of them to be original.

Now you're probably wondering why I would post a link to a vid with "police cars" drag racing, well one of them is an S30! Take a look http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=6a1_1199073588

I'll have some T25s for sale soon. A pair from a 300ZX, one has been taken apart, a pair from '89/'90 Grand Prix TGP (also T25s), and a pair from a 2.0L Sunbird GT (yep T25s).

Wow Jerry, that is just terrible. I didn't have nearly the result yoru Dad did, but I injured one of my fingers with a table saw a few years ago. Took a good chunk off the end, lukily it healed somewaht normal. Ever since then I am always extra observant where ALL my digits and extremities are, when using a lot of tools. Just today I was using a chain saw and tried to use only the bottom of the blade most of the time, because everytime I had to use the top I could just see it catching and kicking towards me. Lukily it didn't. I hope your Dad heals quickly, the pain can be unbearble, but he'll have to deal with something I haven't, that being the lack of digits after the healing. From talking with people that have had similar injuries, the mental healing can take a very long time, because now he will need to get used to not having those fingers that he's had for most of of his life.

Like I said, I haven't seen the car yet, but I will go after work this week to look at it. It's located about 30 to 45 minutes from me, so it needs to be a planned trip. I don't know any more details about the car than what I posted originally. I'm trying to determine if there's enough interest in the other parts to warrent buying it and parting it. The other issue here is that I already have a truck in the garage that doesn't run, a bike that also isn't currently running and a bunch of other parts, with no where to really store any "possibly good" parts from this car, so the turn around from buying to getting rid of it really needs to be a couple weeks at most. No problem with thinking about you guys, I know how hard it can be sometimes to find some parts and thought you guys might appreciate it.

You should have any battery installed in a sealed and vented to the exterior container. Many aftermarket performance manufactures make such a battery box. Taylor, Moroso, Mr. Gasket just to name a few. I would even install a gel cell in a battery container, even though people say that "don't outgas" I have to wonder why there's still vents on the top of these batteries.

I have an opprotunity to purchase a 1981 280ZX for parts. I have not seen it yet, but will likely go look at it this week. Really the only thing that I want out of it is the 5 speed tranny, since the manual tranny I received with my '73 turns out to be a 4 speed. I may also want the rims, but again I will know when I see the car. The reason for my post is to see how much interest there would be for other parts of the car, to determine if buying it and parting it out would be worth my while. The guy doesn't want a lot for it, but more than I will want to spend on a tranny and some wheels. I know that the dizzy is desirable, and to some people the L28 is desirable for building a stroker engine. This should also have the P90 head with the F54 block, which from what I've read seems to be some what soght after, especially for the earlier Z owners. I'm told that it's a T-top car and comes with a bunch of extra parts. What else would be desirable? I haven't really followed the S130, to see what is and is not worth taking from one. So is it worth my while? Should I just pass and install the 4 speed I have, and deal with it? If it had turned out to be a 280Z, I don't think there would have been any hesitation. What say ye?

Yes. the only slight differences between them, is if the bolt pattern is threaded for studs/bolts or just holes for the bolts/studs to pass through. The turbo I will be using, as an example, had 4 studs threaded into the turbine inlet, I removed these and drilled those holes out to pass over the studs in the L-series intake manifold. The Chryco turbine inlet is very close to the standard T3 inlet, but one bolt hole is spaced differently, it's spread out wider than the standard T3 inlet. Here is a standard T3 turbine inlet: Here is a Chryco turbine inlet, the angle is terrible, but you can see the bolt hole closest to the foreground is spaced a bit differently in comparison to the standard flange: The bolt hole on the far left also looks to be spaced differently, but I don't recall that as the case.

You wouldn't attach the breather port on the cam cover to the intake, this in the stock N/A application gets attached to the filter or before the throttle plate. Most people in turbo applications do similar, plumb it into the filter or before the compressor inlet anyway. Some will leave it open to atmosphere.

I don't think I've ever seen them joined together. I've used either "A" or the intake manifold to reference boost pressure. Sourcing at the turbo is said to protect the turbo from overspool, due to reacting quicker and using what is at the compressor nozzle, since this is usually a little higher in pressure than what is at the manifold.

Stock L-series manifold? Any that use a "square" (i.e. not the Chrysler pattern) T3 turbine inlet. Some may require a spacer, like the turbo I will be using that is sourced from a GM 6.5 diesel. I might be able to get away with not spacer, by clearancing the exhaust manifold a bit more and possibly the compressor housing. I'll get some pictures of it soon, and the final decision.

I was about to post that very link.

That happened to my mother and I when I was a kid, on Highway 11, coming back to Brantford from North Bay for a visit.

Using a smaller battery will NOT, EVER, by ANY stretch of the imagination, cause the problems you are experiancing. What you need to do is a "current draw test". You need to make sure that your DMM (Digital Multi Meter), has current range (DCA) of 10A. Disconnect the positive side of the battery, and connect the negitive (black) test lead of your DMM to the positive battery cable you just removed, then attach the positive (red) lead of the DMM to the battery. You should notice that the display will be showing a value. This value on a properly working car should read 0.025 or less. If it does not, which it sounds like it won't, then start pulling fuses, one at a time, until the draw goes go down to where it should. Once it drops, then look at that circuit, components attached and the wiring of that circuit, to find the problem. Re-install the fuse of the suspect circuit, and disconnect one component at a time, until you find the specific component or components that is causing the problem. Remove and repair or replace. By the sounds of it, you have already identified the offending circuit, but you should still go through and check the current draw on all the circuits to make sure you don't have more than one problem. You also need to make sure that the battery is fully charged. If the battery is low, the current draw will be higher, to maintain the same power, this is part of Ohm's Law, but just realize that the battery has to have a full charge for this test to work easily.

No I haven't, I haven't really modified my gauges in my 240 yet, except for swapping my Ammeter to a (280Z) volt meter, and swapping the face on my temp/oil pressure gauge to the 280Z face to match the 280Z volt meter face. I also won't be mounting an Auto Meter tach in the stock location, I have other lans for that. I know I've seen a few threads on how to mount a Monster tach in the factory location, search through some threads and I'm sure you'll find all the pointers you could need.

Yes, cutting a slit or small section out will or very possibly cause it to crack later on. There is a way to reduce the chaces of it craking and that is to drill a hole, at the very end of where the slit/section will end. So what you end up with is a small round hole and a line towards the vent opening. I would avoid cutting anything out if I could. and would probably use a heat gun, to warm the cap and 'shrik' it that way, might take a while, but IMO would be better in the end. You will also likely need to use some sort of smoothing tool, to work the cap when heated, something like a wooden kitchen spoon would work well. You would have the wide spoon end to help flatten, and also the small diameter handle to work it. Just grab one from a local Dollar store. You might be able to find other small tools to work the buldge there as well.

Longer between the door and rear wheel wells.

If you need any contact info, just let me know. You will be happy with thier work. Terry is the owner, he'll likely be the one that answers the phone. You can tell him "Chris with the T-bucket" told you to call. I have my T-bucket body in there that I'm working on with Terry, he's teaching me how to do interiors. I do most of the electrical work for them, remote starters, security, audio, and trouble shooting/repair. Sorry to hear about what you're dealing with, from the Guelph shop.

When I was looking for a 240, I had alreay decided that if I could only find a 2+2, I would do this very thing. It's possible, there have been many more challenging body modifications made, on S30s and other vehicles. As Jerry said, the top of the window may not flow well with the roof line, but that's just something to work out and change if need be.

Yep, has been posted previously: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132550

This is what I was going to suggest, I've used this technique many many times successfully. On the more difficult bolts it sometimes too welding on a few nuts (or other bolts), because they would sometimes break off. This was usually on smaller bolts that didn't have much material to weld to, however.

On a wet system, there is additional fuel being added with the nitrous, so the pressure of the fuel side is VERY important, to keep from running lean, and melting down. The actual pressure seems to be a variable from different nitrous manifacturers, some say 7, some say 5 PSIG, some say that 5 PSIG still has a lot of safe margin, with thier tune-ups. Blanket statements of "needs to be 7 PSIG" will only hurt you in the end. There is a balance between amount of nitrous and fuel added, metered through different sized jets. Direct port, especially with multiple carbs. The only other way to do it is, by using 3 plates, though I'm sure there are no off the shelf plate systems for the Mikunis. The really nice thing about direct port is that each cylinder can be tuned, to compensate for a rich or lean cylinder, by adjusting either the nitrous or fuel jet of that particular cylinder. Remember liquid does NOT flow the same as air, even when broken down like nitrous does when it comes out of the nozzle. Nitrous doesn't like to turn when sprayed, and I'm sure you'll find that most of the nitrous would sprayed into the rear cylinder(s), due to the actual flow characteristics of a pressurized chamber, even if it wasn't pressurized it would do the same, but maybe to a lesser extent. Just because you want the nitrous to turn and flow into the first 2 carbs, doesn't mean that it will.

Ahh, ok, next time you need something upholstry wise done, you should look the other way, in Brantford, Tom's Upholstry, great work, and affordable.

That picture is terrible, but if you look at the lower right, you'll see a bunch of plastic adaptors, ok, I know they are plastic adaptors. these get installed over the original window crank regulators sprockets and adapt to the motor sprocket. All Spal kits are universal. Spal also sells "switch pockets" as would be best way to describe them, that are used to hold the switches and are made in such a way that they can be used to cover the window crank protrusion nicely, with a possible factory look.

Who are you getting to do that?