Six_Shooter

Those look just like my APR mirrors that I have for my bike. I believe that the stems will be removable, I haven't tried, but there is an Allen head bolt in the top of the mirror that looks to hold the stem to the body of the mirror. In the case of the APR, I think they would be a bit small for a car, and is why I will be using them on my bike, they are prefect size that. The APR also uses convex mirrors for both sides. The APR bases are plastic, and the mirrors in the link you posted also look like plastic.

I'm not sure that will be allowed.... To weld over an existing weld that has been ground down. You may need to start from scratch to get it to pass, any inspection.

I found this to be especially true on forced induction. It was a different engine (not an L-series), but it was a creation of my own. 3.2L V6, T3 turbo, Mitsu Satrion FMIC, home made headers, 8.9:1 SCR, Crane 260-2 cam, 2.5" exhaust, with cat and either no muffler or Supertrapp muffler (sorry I don't recall if I had the muffler removed by that time), 1985 GMC Jimmy, somewhere around 3200 lbs, 3.73 final drive gear. Anyway I had a 56mm TB, ran a best of with that TB of about 14.2 IIRC, swapped the TB to a 52mm, and immediatly ran a 13.8. Now, this may not have been just an issue of too large a TB, because I am confidant I would have been able to use the 56mm TB, provided I had a better flowing intake manifold. So I think it was more of a matching between the TB and what was behind that TB in matching flow.

Man, you almost want a clear intake manifold or something that wraps over the valve cover to show off that header. I like it.

QFT! I don't know of any organization that allows grinding of the welds.

I've always wondered what makes certain alloys or material not weldable. What is it that happens? Lack of flowability, poor joints, weakening if the base material?

Yeah I've been trying to figure out whay the T4 or T3 flange would be rare items, I've seen those flanges offered from many companies.

It's pretty wide, and would think too wide for an S30. I installed one in a 1994 Cavalier, required modifying and adapting other end tanks. You'll want to change one of the tube ends anyway as it necks down to a small oval pretty badly. For $25 it's not bad, but I would wait for something that will fit easier and work a little better.

That's easy, use a Y or "merge" pipe, to combine the exhaust pathes. If the idea was to cut the existing manifold and weld a flange to it, then the septum could be removed for a distance back into the manifold, to allow all 6 cylinders to enter the turbine together. I would worry about mounting the turbo too low, if the idea was to basically have the flange where it is or close to, the turbo may hang too low to get proper drain back into the oil pan. Another concern is the steering shaft is right in that area, and may also interfere with turbo placement. Here is a similar N/A exhaust manifold used for a turbo set-up, notice the turbo "adaptor". This was posted on e-bay a few days ago. As far as a gain or loss is concerned I can't tell you, would be interesting to9 find out though.

I missed the "ZX" in your original post, the S30 front control arms are shorter, the exact length was posted on here a day or two ago. I still believe that the possible weight savings won't outweigh the additional labour and possible weak areas, as compared to a solid or billet piece, if there would end up being a difference in weight.

That seems like a whole lot more work with possibly more weak points than just using a solid piece of aluminium, and with very minimal weight gain at best. I don't recall the exact length of the stock control arm, but at somewhere around 10", you'd only have about 5 to 6" that is this tube. Doesn't seem like it's worth the effort to do it this way.

Scottie-GNZ: Do you have any sort of a check valve after the secondary pump? I have thought about doing something similar, but was a little worried that pressure would bleed off through the pump that is off.

Lookin' good, I just wish I could have made it this weekend. I had some other things come up. Soon, maybe we'll roll both of our 240s, together, your's will be quicker than mine..... for now.

Cosmetic restoration would mean to be restored to show room quality, at least to anyone I talk to, that's what "restoration" means. Now a "Mop & Go" on the otherhand, would be what this car has, with some interior parts also repaired.

Yes, those are '73 carbs. Also has a passenger side mirror. Wrong seat covers. PCV system is not connected correctly. I'm sure we will find more. I didn't notice the less than show quality bumpers and chrome, or many of the other things pointed out. I don't think our problem is that we want a full factory restoration for ourselves, it's this car is being touted as a "full cosmetic restoration", which it definatly is NOT.

Is there an online copy?

It's very nice but I didn't "OMG" over it. I figured coming from or being restored for a museum, it would have beenproperly restored with proper radio, front valance, wheels, tires and exhaust.

LOL. I suppose you have me there..... I prefer to use metal PCV valves though.

The PVC valve isn't very important, but the PCV valve is. IMO, the PCV valve is really quite important to the proper operation and logevity of an engine. A proper system will will crankcase fumes into the engine to be burned off, clearing damaging fumes. These fumes acn deteriorate the gaskets, and leave excess pressure in the crank case, without the PCV system connected. At higher RPM, the PCV system will, when connected properly create a small vacuum, or at the very least less pressure in the crank case, allowing the pistons to move down the bores easier, helping create more power than without the PCV system connected.

I wouldn't go on that latter discussin in this thread as to which end would be fine to cut as far as sitting in the perch properly. The latter discussion about the effects of cutting each end of a progessive would spring were mearly that, what effect on spring rate would have, and is not an indication of the spring perch on an S30. You will have to determine which end can be cut when you pull them out.

The Espada is pretty cool lookin' I like it. Yeah the Porsche police car is a photo chop.

That's a good question.

After searching for about a half an hour, I finally found it. http://www.arizonazcar.com/cableinstall.html

Yep, awesome site. You know I'm there.

Looks like they just made brackets to use the Toyota 4 piston calipers and rotor on the rear.