Six_Shooter

That is not a 150 w amp, probably no more than about 20 watts. The power would be compared to that of an internal amp in a standard car deck. If I was looking to do something similar I would look at some of the smaller amps from some of the name brand companies, Pioneer, Clarion, JL audio, etc. Somewhere in the 50 to 75 watt per channel amp area, and that would give plenty of head room, that will keep those transiant peaks clean, even at higher volume, when the amp is set properly. I also agree that you may get some additional noises, but the Carputer from what I've read tends to be fairly clean, the only way to know here will be to try it.

Start as usual. Waiting for the sendor to warm up before you crank the engine can cause any condensation in the exhaust/cylinders to then hit the already heated sensor, and cause problems with the sensor itself. There are also problems if the heater element is not energized and heated by the exhaust. If you're that worried about it, remove the sensor, and disconnect power or remove the cable. Might be a good idea anyway, as some inspectors in some states will fail the car if you have a gauge like that installed, really why do you need one unless you're messing with engine tuning? Changing tuning in some states is considered a non CARB approved modification. I don't agree with that, because in many cases tail pipe emmisions can be reduced with a good tune. I think it shouldn't matter what is on the car under the hood or not, as long as the sniffer test says the emmisions are under the refernce standards, that should be all that matters.

It's amazing how much this happens.... I've never owned a car that got as much attention as my Datsun, not even the chopped, dropped, tubbed '71 chev pick up that I occasionally drive around gets as much, and it's all shiney, and looks complete, while my Z is rusty, and has mismatched body panels. I have a lot of people ask me while I'm driving or at a red light what year it is.

It's an eBay turbo, looks like SS Autochrome. Unless you're getting it for about $50 it wouldn't be a deal. What they are advertised as and what they actually measure as are two very different things. Most don't last very long.

Only about four times.... This is why I read the thread before replying, since imdcb.net was already mentioned I won't mention it here, and Commando was also mentioned, so I won't mention the S30 that I saw in that when that movie was on the other night either.

I use a Miller EconoTIG, I love it. I agree a Syncrowave would be very nice to have though.

Ford trucks from 1990ish to 1999ish also have dual throttle blade TBs. Chevy used dual throttle blade TBs on thier TPI intakes from 1987ish to 1993ish. Newer Mustangs also use dual blade throttle bodies... What I'm getting at is there are MANY dual throttle blade TBs out there. I'm sure many of them could be adapted and work for what you are thinking of.

I still think the flipped 2+2 quarter windows was the best look. Offtopic: Chartoo: Perth, Western Austrailia?

Most cars have that, where the illumination wire will read as ground. That is because on a positive switched (controlled) dash light circuit, the ground potential is then read through the load (light bulbs). It's only once positive power is applied does the ground potential on the "positive" wire go away. Cars that have negitive switched (controlled) illumination will read postive on the illumination wire.

Yep, proper tools to perform the job. Even a cheap DMM (Digital Multi Meter) is better than nothing at all, when it comes to trying to diagnose electrical problems. A test light is prety much useless in electrical diagnosis. A test light only tells you that there is power, but has no idication of how much. A DMM will show you exactly how much power is there (how many volts), along with the ability to test for continuity and how much resistance there might be in a circuit. Without using the proper tools, you won't be able to diagnose the problem. The problem may turn out to be a dead radio, or a poor connection, or maybe an incorrect wire.

A friend of mine has a Martin turbo set-up, has had it for years now, keeps saying he's going to use it, but hasn't yet. He said he'll likely install a small block in his malibu for a while (currently a BBC that needs some work), just to use this system. Looks good.

I'm making one for my N42 intake now, to use a different injector (I believe people refer to them as "14mm injectors on here), from a supercharged Ford 3.8, maybe larger injectors in the future. I'm starting with blank fuel rail stock, and using a specially made injector bung drill bit, to drill the injector cups in the rail. Pallnet ( http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/ ) has a few different styles of fuel rails available. From bunged stock replacments to using other injectors.

Yep, it looks like the only thing missing is the pilot bushing/bearing. You might also want to look at a new throwout bearing, not all clutches come with them. My CFDF didn't and since I was ordered the wrong throwout bearing a few weeks earlier and didn't check it as soon as I got it, I just re-used the old throwout bearing, luckily it seems to be in good shape and is not making any noise or showing signs of being worn out. Here is my thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134300 It's not the exact same swap, but close. the donor was a '77 or '78 and the recipiant is a '73.

Damnit, WHY, WHY do you have to speak the truth? Now I need to sign up for the classes.... Wait, I'm not going to take that first step, I won't admit it, nope.....

I see this one makiung the rounds now... Saw it posted on yellowbullet.com last night.

You have some other problem. The gauges can be and have been installed directly into aluminium or other metals without issue. Double check your wiring and routing.

Thanks. That picture at least gives me a bit of insight. I'll take a look through your album.

Yes it will mount up right.

$1500 sounds a bit much.

Sounds like fate.

Simple search would yeaild LOTS of results. FYI it's 2 5/8" is what would be considered a "direct fit", but still takes a little bit of work to make look right and mounted solid. I've seen a few threads on the different ways members have completed this. I've been considering swapping my Autometer gauges in, but will swap in some other gauges I have, and do it a bit differently. My Temp and oil pressure gauges are not working or not working right either. My temp gauge doesn't even move and when it did, it just went up as the car warmed up but then went back down once it was warm. The oil pressure gauge is so slow to react that It's not even worth looking at.

That wasn't based on what I have read in books, that's based on what (many) guys have datalogged in thier cars, and makes complete sense. You need more pressure (force) on the drive side of the device, a turbo in this case, in order to not stall the device. A/R ratios and trims would change this a bit, but that's where the pressure at the nozzle tip would then be higher than before that point, and where a lower pre turbine pressure could be seen. In most turbo systems you will see a higher pressure in the exhaust pre-turbine than in the intake.

Does anyone have a picture of the stock 240 (preferably 1973) fuel level sender? It's sad that I need to write this next part... I did a couple searches in the main forum and in the photo gallery, came up empty. The reason I am asking for this is because I will be installing a gauge cluster (well part of it), from a GM product and since I am having trouble getting the gauge to read backwards (I'm close, I just can't get the full range yet), I am wondering how difficult it would be to modify the sender itself to send the value backwards, essentially making it GM range. TIA

With the elevation of your driveway that would make for one sweet picture with all the Zs in the cul-de-sac. I say the date should be after you have yours back on it's own wheels and moving under it's own power. If you need a hand, you have my number, just give me a day or two notice, if you can. I was out on Sunday and looked at, and listened to Chris and Robs car run, with the two handed throttle trick. It sounds good, can't wait to see it back on the wheels and roll under it's own power. When that happens, you know we'll all go for a roll, maybe beat up on Matt and his Scooby.

Both lean AND rich can cause EGTs to rise.