Six_Shooter

Is this what your were trying to post? http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932733

Have you considered you may have a broken tach?

Link to new ad? I'd like to see what all this hype is about.

So the air passing over or around the end tank can't have a cooling effect? I'm also waiting to here some details on what was done to the engine to "toot the horn".

The bounce at low RPM is probably due to the outer ring of the harminic balancer, where you attached your magnets, actually moving, or twisting more specifically around the axis of the crank, as per the function of a harmonic balancer. The movement or twisting is probably either less, or not noticed as much due to lack of time to actually be able to see any error. I'm surprised there isn't more wandering of trigger signal. I had thought about doing something similar with an engine I built, but would be notches in the outer ring, not magnets, due to the ignition system I was running and the sensor I was using with it. I opted for new disc to take any possibility of a wandering signal out of the equation. Looks pretty cool though, I like it.

Ahh, ok, cool, thanks.

Cool. looks good. The turbo coolant return then goes where? To the port at the rear of the block (head?) on the passenger side?

I had wondered the same thing, and found what I think is the answer in a for sale thread. The 4 speed has two "nubs" ( for lack of a better description ) near the top of the tranny body, towards the back of the tranny. The 5-speed does not have these. Pics courtosy of aziza z: 5-speed: 4-speed, notice the two bumps or nubs towards the rear of the tranny, just behind the steel divider: This is the only evidence I've been able to find, through searches on here, and the interweebnet.

Triple bypass?! So what exactly is a tripple bypass then? Good to hear it went well.

Yes, that is a sump.

As do I.... BUT.... There actually is consistancy to it in reference to Garret T3 turbine wheels. This is how Garret decided to to refer to wheel sizes for this series. I have seen people use trims for the T3, but is less common. Igt seems to b e be only guys like me that would take the time to measure and calcuate the trim of something more commonly refered to by stage anyway.

Wouldn't it make as much sense to make either 12 individual flanges or 2 'connected' flanges? The spacing will be the same regardless.

Just you.... *whistles* Yeah I've been getting it too. In fact I get error pages regularly on here. Tonight was the first for the fast cgi error though.

Sweet. I've wanted to build a pulse jet ever since I had seen one built on Junkyard Wars.

The opening to the throttle plates kinda oval shaped? Could be early '80s VW 2.0L, from Scirocco, and other similar VWs. *edit* Looks like this? I've thought about using these as well, but have decided to make progessive linkage for dual throttle bodies if I ever feel the need for a progessive set-up.

That was pretty cool, I might need to look into doing something similar, makesa for a neat effect. I too would get frustrated with that many people "helping" me.

I build my cars because NO ONE else would do the things I do/have done, some are very clever, some well, they don't turn out so well, but great learning experiances. So I can't buy what I would want in a car, S30 or otherwise. I also enjoy making things, custom, odd combinations that no one has thought of, or has thought won't work. I have more satisfaction in driving a vehcile I've built than one that I've bought.

x2. I'm interested in keeping my head gasket in the shape it's in now, once I put the turbo on, and know that cooling is paramount, in keeping everything together and working. I'm not going to be using a water cooled turbo, I also don't know where the water cooled turbos return thier water to. So I would think that returning both fittings above 5 and 6, to the bottom of the T-stat housing, would do the job. I'll have my intake off soon, for the EFI swap, so I'll drill and tap at that point. The best solution I think would be to place the T-stat, or at least the coolant return at the back of the head. The T-stat could still be located neare the front of the engine, just fed from a tube or manifold that is fed from a fitting at the rear of the head. Hmmm, I really wasn't planning on pulling my head, since I just want to play with the L28 in my car for the next year or two before I swap in a larger V6..... Just as reference for other cooling modifications on other engines: The small block Doge guys like to drill and tap the water pump outlets (feed to the block) and run a 3/8" to 1/2" hose to the two block drain ports, about midway in the block. It was found that this helped push the stagnant water/coolant from the bottom of the block, where it's really not needed out through the heads, providing a significant drop in engine temp, some say as much as 20 degrees. A Froiend of mine who ran Dodge engines in his dirt cars, found this to be accurate, and actually had to resit to running a T-stat instead of just a restrictor, to get the engine warm enough. Other modifications are very similar to what is being proposed here, is to drill and tap the intake at the rear, where the heads have ports that would line up with the coolant passage at the front of the engine, that leads back to the T-stat. The modification in this case, uses tubes or hoses about 3/8" in diameter and plumb them back into the intake at the front in that same passage that leads to the T-stat. This is done to equalize the temp accross all the cylinders, since it's been found that in a lot of cases the coolant goes through a cycling that is similar to what was posted back on page 2 (IIRC) of this thread where the the coolant doesn't really exit the engine, but cycles around the same cylinders.

260 or 280 2+2 by the looks of it; Link to trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZJfHBvG5dM

That's a pretty nice looking piece. I just installed a battery tray in my Z, that I originally made for my 1985 GMC Jimmy. Here are a few pictures:

Thanks I like the type face of the original gauges as well, but I really prefer the later 280Z type face, it's easier for me to read, with the thinner font, it just doesn't have as much character as the earlier gauges. I may try and play with some new faces for all of the gauges so that they all match, in font, and illumination type, I like the newer gauges with the back lighting as opposed to the side lighting of the original gauges.

Like this: I installed a quad gauge from a Turbo Sunbird GT cluster I've had kicking around, in place of the tach. I was fed up with the factory oil pressure "gauge" reacting so slow, and the temp gauge not working at all, so I went with something that I thought would be more useful, since I'm more worried about what my oil pressure and tempurature is doing that what RPM I'm at. I shift by feel or by the shift light anyway. Here are a few other pictures: This circuit board was originally mounted to the back of the quad gauges, but would not fit inside the 240 tach housing, so I had to remote mount it. Testing the shift light for brightness on the bench: More pictures here: http://domestic.3400z24.com/sixshooter/My%20vehicles/Datsun/Interior/Gauges/ Video (right click, save as): http://domestic.3400z24.com/sixshooter/My%20vehicles/Datsun/Video/240%20new%20gauges%20start.AVI

Man, I like the original dash, but I also like the look of the SX dash.... What am I going to do?

Can you post a picture of the "ECU" of the projection system. There were a few different versions, and some of the older systems, were only marginally better than a carb, yes I'm an EFI guy, and I'm even saying that depending on the exact model, a carb might be the better way to go. So the engine is just not getting fuel? Maybe something as simple as a blown fuse for the ECU or fuel pump. Have you been able to determine what the actual problem is?

Wrong, just about every amplifier company out there makes and sells 50 to 75 watt per channel amplifiers. You need to read a little more about those built in amps in the decks. The 50W rating is very exagerated. True RMS peak at a reasonable amount of THD is closer to 10 to 12W.