Six_Shooter

NHRA press release regarding the investigation of the Kalitta crash: http://www.nhra.com/content/news/30197.htm

Thanks. This is only "temporary", as I plan to make some pretty large changes to the body in a couple years, once I get a couple other projects out of the way.

Well, after a few weeks of having the spook in my possesion, I decided to strip it down and body work it, I didn't take any pictures of it during that process, I think we all know what body work looks like. I also fixed a few cracks while I was at it. I painted it earlier this week and installed it last night. Here are a few pictures: The "bad" side of the car. I like it a LOT more than I thought I would. It just doesn't look the same in the pictures.

You can order fuel rail stock through your local speed shop, Accel supplies it. I'm making my own now, to convert to O-ring injectors on an L28 intake. I had a friend of mine make me a special 3 flute drill bit, that has the proper dimentions for the O-ring injectors. Hopefully it will be done soon.

Most EFI pumps are designed to push. Many are not "self-priming", and so they need to be mounted in such a way that gravity will provide the priming effect. This is also why most OEM EFI pumps are mounted inside the tank (among various other reasons, such as noise control). Mounting the fuel pump by use of rubber isolators can help cut down the noise.

George Carlin passed away yesterday. Great comedian, I always enjoyed his skits. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20080623/us_nm/carlin_dc http://georgecarlin.com/ This seems like something he would say today, since he said it before:

Link still doesn't work.

This has been debated over and over again, since this happened yesterday on yellowbullet.com...... E-town has about a 1/2 mile shut down, one of the longest on the NHRA circuit. The "wall" at the end of the shut down, is not perpedicular to the track, in fact it's curved, the angle of the camera makes it look like it's perpendicular to the track. The curved wall is there, to deflect cars from going into the trees and worse yet, the public road that is just beyond the trees. Here are a couple aerial pictures: Most people seem to feel the sand trap is too short, which could be the case, but I'm not sure how much effect there would have been if the sand trap was extended by even double. There seems to have been no attempt to stop the car, after the initial explosion, indicating that Scott was likely knocked unconcious or possibly killed at that point, the 'chutes were out when the body came off the chassis, like they are supposed to be, but worn shredded by the initial explosion.

LMAO, man that's funny, and a sign of how lazy people are anymore...... "I'm not going to work, I'm going to steal stuff, and I'm not going to learn to use all the tools of the "trade" that I'm getting into." LMAO. Too bad about the owner.

ESPN coverage that has interviews with other drivers: http://sports.espn.go.com/rpm/racing/nhra/news/story?id=3455554

I just saw the video of the crash, and wow, that's bad..... 'Chutes came out but look like they were shredded by the initial explosion, nothing you can do after that, especially since it looks like there was no attempt to slow down, like he may have been knocked out.

I've been burned by members of other forums. So far all has been well with my transactions through HBZ, that includes the purchase of my 240Z! A little disapointed in one transaction, but I should have payed more attention to the pictures that were posted, and it's minor in the grand scheme of things. I also don't think the seller was trying to decieve me in anyway, I know he stated he didn't know exactly what he had. I chalked it up to a learning experiance. "Look at the pictures closer." I see this happen on other forums quite a bit unfortunatly. On one site that I am a moderator of, we have a couple stickies in the classifieds forum, that has one for "rip off artists", which the user also gets a banner attached to thier information bars that says "Rip-off artist". The other, nicer thread is for people to post thier good experiances in transactions. It seems to have helped with people getting what they are supposed to, though there are still some transactions that go bad.

What ever is convieniant. For me that usually means a warm engine, because I will usually decide to change it on my way home, or as I bought the oil, and change it as soon after getting the car up on jackstands or up on a hoist.

I think they've already re-worked the Z aerodynamics:

LOLz You're friend needs to learn to calm down. Anyway. I've had to do this a few times. Open the harness up, by slicing the tape/covering that is on the harness. This will expose the wires that are in there. First start by splicing the wires that are coloured the same from one cut end to the other. You can also use wire gauge to match wires. Sometimes there will be two wires (4 ends) that are the same colour(s), but two different gauges, match the gauge. In some cases this takes care of all the wires, in other cases there may be a few circuits that use the same wire colours and a little more investigation is needed. In the case where there are left over wires, a wire diagram to find the function of each wire will be needed and a DMM (Digital Multi Meter). You can perform continuity tests to determine where that wire goes to, but this can fool you very easily, especially if the harness is still plugged into the car at the other ends. In some instances a few wires will show up with coninuity, even though the wire diagram shows that these should be seperate circuits. The reason this happens is because all electrical devices in the car share the same ground and same positive supply (the battery). Because of this, and the fact that you can read continuity through things like coils (contained/used by relays, injectors, etc), or by filiments (light bulbs), you need to be careful when doing this. What I usually do is on the end connected to the 'source' I will use the actual switch to check for function. Connect the DMM to the suspected wire, and turn the circuit on, get voltage? Good you have found the proper circuit. No change? Try another circuit (switch) until you find it. Finding the matching wire in the other side may not be as easy and may need to disconnect every wire from the end of the harness and do continuity tests to find where the wires are connected to. Proper connection techniques would include, soldering the connection, taping and heat shrink wrapping the connection. Crimp connectors are only good as a temporary solution IMO. Depending on how much slack there is in your harness, you may need to add a few inches of wire to each connection, to get everything to fit back together. You may also want to to add wire to stager the slices anyway so that you don't end up with a large "bubble" where all wires are spliced together at the same point in the harness. I've been working with wires for a couple decades now, so I've now been able to get the slices small and still very insulated so that I only end up with a very small "bubble" where multiple splices are.

Just incase I missed something.... Isn't that exactly the point? To have a new car that is unmistakably a Z car, and pulls a LOT of inspirsation from the S30.

That's pretty neat. I think a better picture might be in order before deciding on whether it suits the Z or not. In the picture it's just a white blob really and can't see any detail. I really like the idea though, and IF something that was interesting enough could be made in similar fashion I might actually consider keeping those vents and not "shaving" them. For some reason I hadn't thought about making a different logo for that area.

I guess I read what was wanting to be learned wrong. I don't know of anyone that actually likes Vista, but with nothing but Lenovo offering XP on new machines, then we will all have to switch over to the newest or least worst OS soon enough.

Threshold is measured where the boost pressure will build, at WOT, since that is a measure of matching the turbo to the engine, using anything less than WOT is irrelevant, when it comes to determining if a turbo is properly matched for the use, since it's really not needed at anything less than WOT. For all intents and purposes, a turbo could be bypassed completly until WOT, since all that would be needed to increase power output of the engine would be to open the throttle farther. (more air and fuel = more power put simply.) At WOT if you want to increase the power you would need to add more air (and fuel), this is done in a turbocharged engine by increasing the pressure in the intake. I don't think many people understand how this really increases flow, and again comes back to a pressure differential. When the intake valve opens the pressure in the intake is higher than in the cylinder, this is true of N/A or forced induction. It is this pressure differential that causes flow from the intake into the cylinder, by increasing the intake pressure, this causes a higher pressure differential and will increase the flow for the same given time (valve open time). Where am I going with this? Just illistrating that boost pressure at anything less than WOT is irrelevant from a max power production point of view, it does factor into driveability and tuning however. This would open a whole 'nother can of worms that has load effecting this, that adds more complexity to the situation. That's NOT surge, that is "stall", where there is a lack of BOV, or stuck BOV, any pressure between the turbo and throttle plate has no where to vent, and goes for the lowest pressure area, back through the compressor (air pressure on the front side or inlet to the turbo) is lower than what is in the intake tract. That is also not a case of the engine "not being able to use" the "boost" or air flow from the turbo, since well the throttle is closed, the pressure in the intake tract won't be "used", it needs to be vented. Stall is also a very bad problem, just so that it doesn't seem like I'm making light of the compressor stall.

Have anyone read Maximum Boost, or Turbochargers (Hugh MacInnes) or any other (published) book that deals with turbocharging? Threshold is not a matter of easing on or mashing the throttle, it is simply where boost will buid in refernce to RPM, Lag is how long something takes, or in this case how long it takes to build boost. Describe exactly how there can be too much boost in the intake that the engine just can't use? That will just show up as high intake pressures. In that video it clearly shows that they are trying to get more boost from the turbo (pressure and air flow) than it (the turbo) is capable of, causing it to overspool and gets into "surging" where it will speed up and slow down repetivly, trying to provide flow it can't. It's not too much flow, it's a lack of ability to flow the needed air.

Correction: You will need a '74 to '78 tach. The '73 is still a current sensing tach. How do I know this? MY '73 had a current sensing tach, and all information I've read confirms this. A '74 260 tach has the same font as the earlier 240 tach, but is voltage (points) sensing. I have one of these that I'd be willing to part with. It will be in a 280 enclosure, since I used part of the 260 enclosure for my gauge conversion. The only difference between the 260 and 280 tach enclosure is the 4 screws that hold the face (black plastic) to the metal rear casing.

Where do you work that your boss wants you to learn how to use Megatune? x2 on the Windows 7 question.

Not in my books. Surge refers to the demand of air being greater than the supply, in otherwords out of the effeciancy range of the compressor, on the far left side if you look at the compressor map. This area of the map would be less flow than what the engine wants. The turbo will try to over spool, and won't be able to keep up. Again, I just can't fathom how a turbo would supply more air than the engine can use, although by definition, "boost pressure" is simply a measurement of how much restriction to air flow there is in the intake tract.

Boost threshold is the point where boost comes in. Usually said by RPM. Lag is a time dependant variable, though many people seem to refer "boost threshold" as "lag". I've never heard of an engine not being able to use the boost created, I'm not even sure what if that's possible, especially since boost, even boost threshold can and is determined by increased load on an engine.

jmead; So what kind of pulling power would a single (any electric still in planning) have connected directly to a diff with 3.73 gears and 26" tall tires? Enough to pull a 3400 lbs vehicle towing a car trailer that weighs around another 3400 lbs, with all equipment? Or should I retain the tranny to have some lower gears for an easier take off from a standing start?