Six_Shooter

I don't think it's impossible for a 4 door wagon Lambo to exist, I just think the one in the link above is a photo chop, due to a few inconsistancies that would need to be changed to make function IRL.

When cutting the tighter wound coils off, you will raise the spring rate more than cutting the looser wound coils. In fact cutting the looser wound coils could make for a softer spring than desired. Most people would say to not cut progressive springs because of the possible drastic change in spring rate. If it were me I would cut the tighter wound coils, and raise the spring rate as much as possible. There is a way to calculate the spring rate of a consistant wound spring, with simple measurements and the proper formula. I have found it to be very accurate as well.

Nice. I hope to get about 2/3s those numbers. looking forward to the vid. Tire haze in the video or ban!

I also think it looks photo choped, mostly because of the way the rear vent in the doors looks. It doesn't look like the wheelbase has been stretched any, so another reason to be fake.

Ahh, you're talking about a wastegate adaptor.

I've been contemplating making a similar cable set-up to this when I go EFI in my 240, I just wasn't sure how I was going to deal with the ball. I also haven't looked at it that closely either. This pretty much verifies what I was thinking though.

I don't see what the wastegate has to do with the intake manifold. Usually you don't want the wastegate and intake manifold to intereact. Could that Rayjay have an internal gate?

Never even heard of it. Newer movie?

I just looked through all of the posted pictures again, and really don't see why a few of you are sayaing to abandon it, because it's a very solid looking piece. I see two small frame patches in the inner wheel wells, and maybe a couple small floor patches, though the under the floor pictures make that look pretty solid. The battery tray looks just like mine does currently and it's SOLID, in fact there might be less surface rust on the car in these pictures, of the battery tray area. I realize that there will be more rust found, but I can only see getting a less solid S30, than this, unless he were to spend huge amounts of cash. I would personally have no problem using that car to build a HybridZ, as far as a chassis goes, after the few repairs that are needed. I would want a more complete car though, which is part of the reason I bought the one I did, it's even more solid than this one and complete.

I don't know what pictures you guys are looking at, but I really only see frame rail repairs needed, and probably some floor patches, very MINOR work IMO, shouldn't take more than a weekend to complete those repairs with proper tools.

I don't recall where I had seen it, but there was an article a few years ago, but somebody that is well respected in the automotive feild, that showed how to proper cut springs. Involved a torch and even how to flatten that last coil to sit in a flat spring pocket. We have the front coils cut on our '70 Chev pick up that uses a '79 F-body front frame clip. Been riding that way for about 8 years now, maybe longer, I don't remember when we set it back down on it's wheels. This is the second set, since the first set was too low and we couldn't actually remove the jack when we went to set it down. It has never sagged, or had any other ill effects from the cut springs.

I thought maybe it was some way to replace using a manometer, thanks anyway.

Well I looked at the fiche, and there are three different bolts litsed for the manual, depending on the date, and two for the auto, also depending on the date. However one part number from each, matches up. Manual L24 up to 11/72 P/N 12316-21001 Auto L26 from 08/73 P/N 12316-21001 In both cases the P/N could be 12315-21001, the fiche is pretty blurry. In any case it looks like the bolts from the flexplate will work with the flywheel. I hope they will anyway, since that's all I have at this point.

It's a Lincoln Locker, some parts and assembly required.

+1

In a car I did an engine swap and turbo build on, I did something similar, but was replaceable/removable. The fitting was not a banjo bolt, but could be adapted. I used an AN to NPT fitting in the turbo itself. I ran a tap into the opening from the "top" (AN end), I don't recall the actual size or thread at this point. Used a bolt and cut it off at about 3/8" long, so that I ended up with essentially a grub screw (Didn't have any handy, so used what was on hand), drilled a small hole .045" or so, again, it's been a while. Cut a groove accross the end, to use with a flat tip screwdriver. Added some lock tight to the threads, screwed in, and voila, removable, or replacable restrictor.

Similar ideas have been going on for years. I don't like the above picture, due to the distortion.

HOLY ISH!!! IS that really out near you? You'll have to take me over to see it when I come out. I've seen pictures of those cars from long ago, but have never seen one in person. Cool.

I'm sure if you look closer at the 350Z you'll find it to be similar to many other late model cars that pulls air in from smaller vents at the base of the windsheild, where the wiper arms attach.

Doesn't the little scoops at the rad support that funnel air into the upper frame rail (for lack of a better description), end up in that same area? Or do they run only to the vents in/above the kick panels?

Not at all.... read the first post in this thread, that's what needs to be done.

So, as a related question to what has been discussed.... The RB head has the proper cylinder spacing and head bolt pattern to work, it's just the oiling and cooling that has to be modified? If it's really that straight forward as far as bolting on to the block, I'm in. Cam gears can be made or modfied FAR easier than casting a completly new head design, re-routing oiling and cooling is not usually that difficult, though cooling path changing is generally not for the feint of heart to attempt. Is there anything that documents and attempts at putting an RB head on an L-series? I just want to counter one point: I don't see that as being completly accurate, yes the L-series blocks have been around that long, but the technology that we are wanting to use or adapt in the stock forms they are have been around far shorter periods of time than that. We may just simply not be looking at the right offerings out there, and there may still be a head that will fit, with less modification. I've seen new adaptations to older products, just simply because no one had looked at combining those items until now, or a long period of time later, when you would have thought that it would have already been tried before. I'm still looking to swap a different engine, because it will layout better in the engine bay with my plans, but like I said before if a high flowing head can be found that will mate to the L-series block, I'd seriously consider keeping the L-series bottom end.

Interested in more information about this.

The '74 and later tach is a point trigger, not current trigger like the earlier tach.

Very true, the only RBs I've seen are in cars and usually running, in swaps. It's not like they are in a bunch of cars at the local wreckers.