Six_Shooter

I thought about this too. There are a few issues: Hotside pre turbine piping. It will need to route under the oil pan, reducing ground clearance. Now you may be able to bring it up closer to the crossemember and tuck it up a bit in that area, but still wouldn't gain much ground clearance. You would also be introducing a lot of added bends and length to do this. Exhaust passing under the oil pan, especially on the pre-turbine side can heat the oil in the pan, reducing oil life and if heated enough, causing it to break down in viscocisty and have reduced potential to lubrictae the engine. I have been involved in several discussions about this, and the general concensus seems to be that it will work, and not effect the oil temp too much as long as there is a buffer area (space) and/or heat sheald between (tin, heade wrap, etc). The effect seems to be less if the vehcile is moving, and air is allowed to pass the oil pan pulling away heat. This also brings up the issue of air passing over the pre-turbine tube cooling that off and reducing exhaust temps. On the down pipe you would have to run this back under the oil pan to then run into and through the tranny tunnel. The starter is in the way on the right side of the car, to pass the exhaust down that side, along with clutch hydraulics (if manual). You would likely need to relocate the oil filter or have the tubing pass around it, making it difficult to access. (I love how open and easy the L-series oil filter is to get at. ) A brace or bracket would need to be fabricated to support the turbo. Using the tubing alone will cause it to fail pretty quickly with the heat involved. Oil path would be nice and short though, with the oil port on the passenger side. FWIW I've never had a problem with oiling the turbo from the opposite side of the engine. The only gain or "advantage" to this idea is that the cold side piping would be a little easier. I don't see the cold side plumbing being all that difficult from the stock turbo location, in fact it looks MUCH easier than placing the turbo on the right side. I've opted to go with the stock manifold, and location, as it makes for the shortest and most compact placement. Down pipe is much easier to fabricate, and has the best flow of the two turbo placements.

x2. Is this on an L-series? If it is, I can see this becoming a problem with torquing down the intake manifold, since a few of the bolts are shared between the intake and exhaust manifolds. If both manifolds were spaced out using the same spacer thickness I don't think it would be too much of a problem. Another solution, albeit more difficult , would be to weld some standoffs to the intake manifold, to take up that difference in thickness.

LOL, where would the cat get connected to on an EV? I can see it, the dumbass inspectors say: "But you gotta have a cat." Come back with one tie-wraped somewhere in the vehcile.

Yes, the term to describe the Prius, and other hybrid vehicles is completly correct. Sweet, that means I bought a HybridZ. '73 240 with '81 to '82 280ZX engine.

Then it would still be crushed by the J-yard, probably in the condition it was in there. I fail to see the difference. If it was you or I though, we would take ALL of the remaing parts off and sold them to other S30 enthusiasts, and only scrapped the bare chassis.

QFT! This brings new (to me) idea, that I might have to explore, once I get my car converted to manual. It would work well with my (according to at least one site) lower final drive ratio than a factory manual equipped car, great accel with nice cruising RPM. Thanks for bringing this to the newer members attention.

Sweet! Do you have any build up pictures? Also some wider angle shots? I'm going to be back halving mine (might become full chassis), and have been looking at how others have done this in thier S30s.

Optimas don't have the storage capacity needed. The lead acid batteries that are used in most cases are not the size of a conventional underhood battery, but about 3 times that size, physically.

I'm planning a similar deal. I have looked at using a late '60s Camaro fuel tank to do this. Unfortunatly I don't have the dimentions to verify if it will fit or not. I'll likely build a fuel tank from scratch, due to other plans I have for the rear of the car.

Interested in this tool, I've been looming my harnesses for years and haven't seen a product like this, talked about it with someone for a few minutes once a long while ago. It's also not that difficult to loom harnesses, using a couple different techniques. One is to slide the loom on, from one end to the other, while holding the wire and guiding the loom on with a thumb in the split. The other way is to place the loom on, without sliding it, folding the loom backwards with the split towards the wire (duh!), and then roll the loom onto the wire.

That seems to be the problem... Plentful and cheap, but heavy and/or low storage capacity OR Good storage capacity, light but expensive.

The problem I've been seeing, reading and heard about with the DEKA or other AGM small case batteries is that you need more of them to equal the same reserve capacity of a larger case battery, even though the instant discharge rate might be the same or close. This would work well for a short run, high rate of accel car like a drag racer, but not for distance like we want. The guy that is or will be helping me, has been looking into using Li/ion batteries in the AA or AAA size, which we will then place into our own cases, replaceable as modules. I'm likely going to start with conventional batteries to get it going and then switch out later, once the initial cost of conversion is dealt with. jmead; I'm more interested in the choice to use the tranny, especially without the clutch. I've held onto my clutch for now, because I figured it would be easier to drive with, especially while down shifting. I can drive no problem without using the clutch, but still need to work on my clutchless down shifting, I would imagine this would be more difficult (for me) than with a gas engine, since I'm used to the rate of decay or RPM on a gas engine, especially with a heavy flywheel, with just the coupler, the rate of decay should be higher, making that time to slip into the lower gear shorter. I'd rather run without a clutch, since that's added weight that will eat power, on accel, but may help once your rolling along. I'm even considering doing away with the tranny, and going with a taller gear, to save weight, but I'm not sure how towing will be effected by this. Hmmm, removing 1st and 2nd gear, and leaving only the last 3 gears for towing accel and cruising may be an option. Thoughts?

I see you're running or going to be running a 144V system. All 12 batteries in series, correct? I'm a little more than looking into doing this with my 1985 GMC Jimmy. I have a friend who has an electric bike, was a record holder IIRC a little while ago. I'm also looking at using a generator for longer trips and possibly heavy loads. The SUV, which I am currently naming SUVolt, still needs to act like a utility Vehicle, and so it still needs to tow, and get around long distances. Initially I just want to get it running on electric power then I'll add in some of the other niceties. Where did you source your parts from? The guy that I have helping me thinks that I will have more or almost what you have into the entire car, just in the electric conversion. I had considered two banks of batteries, but I think I also want to go with a 144V system, the advantages of the higher voltage system seem to outweigh the lower voltage. Any information you have would be helpful. I have been reading over some posts from a mailing list that is nothing but EV related, I wish I had considered this possible a few years ago, I might actually have started buying some of the needed parts before now. Thanks for sharing.

Kinsler is probably the best source for mechanical injection, and even EFI conversions of the mechanical injection manifolds, but I'm not sure any will fit easily under the hood of an S30. The closest option would be the above pictured "monster" design, where the stacks are short. May have to look into a manifold more like the ones BRAAAP posted that the stacks are pointed sideways, infact I'm sure they would fit, since many of these are shorter than a conventional "low-rise" dual plane manifold, with carb and filter. I would recommend an EFI conversion, as getting a full mechanical injection set-up to run well, under anything but WOT conditions is difficult, due to the course fuel metering, in comparsion to what an EFI system can do, or I hate to admit this, what even a carb is capable of.

Oh come on... That yello car is CRYING for doors like that.

Been a member since 2005, lots of info, and lots of fun, just be forewarned about the Trash or Be Trashed forum, it's a no holds barred, say, post, do whatever forum, that if you have a problem with anyone else because of a post or thread in that particular forum, too bad, because nothing is going to happen. The tech forums are not this way though, and have plenty of useful information and ideas.

That's no where near a "Rat Rod". The car is too finished, and too complete to be a rat rod, flat or faded paint doesn't make a car a rat rod, if that were the case I've owned almost nothing but Rat Rods. As stated Rat Rods are really a joke, taking what is supposed to be a budget build, and spending as much or more on a Rat Rod as what would be spent on a similar "finished" example. There are even "Rat Rod" builder, that charge lots of money for an "incomplete rod". WTF? A Rat Rod, or the vehicles they are supposed to be emulating were the ones built with shoestrings, some bubble gum, a hand full of bolts, some left over or donated parts, and some time with a dash of enginuity. Now there are computer designs and CAD programs being used to build these "Rat Rods". I liked the first few "Rat Rods" I had seen, now they are just annoying, in that everyone seems to be building one, and they are buying new parts that look old, to get the look they are after, instead of scouring the classifieds, barns, feilds and local wreckers to find that perfect part.

This one is hardly started. I just plan to drive it in current form, well except for some improvments, for a couple years, and then it comes off the road for a large cut and build. I'm having way too much fun driving it around, after I got done working on a couple cars for a "second" job of mine, I went driving around for about an hour, I hate the seat, I hate the ride, but I love driving it. I also discovered tonight, the tranny is not an automatic..... I have to shift it into 1st to actually get it to use 1st gear, no wonder it's been so sluggish off the line. Just one more reason to swap in the manual tranny.

Thanks guys. I found one problem this morning, when I was dropping my little sister off at school, I heard a little thud, thud, when I would hit the brakes, sounded like a loose wheel, which would have made sense, since I had teh wheels off last night to change tires, and the wheel in question didn't seem to seat properly previously. Well got home, checked the lugs and they were tight, looked at the caliper through the rim and thought: "that doesn't look right". Reached behind and it's missing a bolt. I tightened up the other one to get me to work, and I'll use my other car to get another bolt at lunch. I really need to change out the seats, they are very uncomfortable. Hopefully I'll be able to get the Prelude seats I have in there by the weekend.

QFT!!! I'm not asking to be spoon fed, but you didn't even open the cupboard. A term like "Smurf Tube" is obviously slang for some other product, and not everyone uses the same slang. Do some checking into dialect of different areas and you'll soon realize that what is being used to describe something in one area is completly foreign to another area. Look at what has happened to this thread, many posts regarding the single post and how "humerous" it was. It was not, and now the thread is getting way too far off topic. Even more effort and time wasted, when a simple link or more information, maybe even just a proper name for the product in question, this could all be avoided. You want to be stand up, there are improv clubs for that, or if you want to do it online, there's the "non-tech" forum. _____________________________________________________________ Back on topic..... I have thought of one minor inconvienence to the use of the "exhaust legos", and that is there are times when the raduis of bend that is being used, is not tight enough, or even wide enough for the header or pipe to clear an object and you must cut a pie shaped piece or just not square to the tubing, to create a tighter or wider radius. I know, I know, it's not ideal to do that, but sometimes there just is no other way to get the job done without maodifying the raduis of the bend. I've had to do this a few times, to get header primaries or downpipes to clear. I'm sure this could be delt with by buying some extra pieces and cutting them apart, to modify them in a way that would mimic the not-square-to-the-pipe cuts, and just mark on the piece what the amount of extra cut is and how it is to be made. I'm sure it's a only a matter time before someone else comes out with a cheaper version, I'll look at buying at that point. With my desire to go electric with at least one vehicle of mine, I probably won't be making too many headers for myself in the future, but using something like that for the new engine going in the 240, would be quite helpful, I know I've wasted a few pieces in the past, or as my uncle always used to say when something was cut wrong or bent wrong: "I didn't screw up, I just made a part for something else, not sure what it is yet, but something else."

That sux, I know I do the same, make plans for the possible free parts, under the same circumstances, just to have the plug pulled on the free parts. Let us know.

Here is the above mentioned site: http://www.cachassisworks.com/ Part number 7000 is just a universal set, that is cut and fit/weld, not specifica for the S30 or any car for that matter.

Or you could provide the requested info and look like less of a d&nk. Not everyone calls something by the same name and "Smurf tubing" definatly sounds like slang that probably wouldn't reveal the product that you are talking about. Not everyone has time to go through umpteen thousand results wondering "Is this what he was talking about?" Still wouldn't work half as well as the product posted in this thread. The "header legos" use the same radius that is common to pre bent exhaust tubing AND has witness marks so that the measurements can be transfered to the tubing for a perfect (or very close to) fit, cutting fab time down quite a bit. Like I said before, if it were half the price I'd likely buy a set, even if it was just enough to do one header on a V engine at a time. One of the best ideas I've seen in a long time for a new tool, it's one of those "wish I had thought of it" deals. There was mention of needing colectors and flanges, this would cause no extra expense, since you would use the actual flanges and collectors that you will be using in the end to make the template.

I took it for a couple highway passes with the GF in the car for her ride. I had it up around 80 to 90 MPH according to the speedo, didn't feel quite that fast, but oh well. I put some new tires on it tonight, look a bit shorter than the originals I pulled off, much better tread. The tire being slightly shorter will make the speedo read high, but it seemed like it was off by more than that. I need to swap that manual tranny in there SOOON, the auto is killing me. Turbo and EFI will be very shortly too, oh and the new alternator, which I'll be calling about tomorrow, I don't like how my car (doesn't) charge, just enough to keep it running and if I rev it, it gets better, turn the lights on, and there's not much. Good to have it on the road though. Definatly needs some rear suspension work, rides rough.

My 240z has finally been registered and driven on the road again. I drove it home from work today. :woot: The last time it was registered was 1998 in Washington state, now it's registered here in Ontario Canada. It needs more power, needs more power, needs more power. It also seems to need some suspension work, I'll have it on a hoist tonight, changing the tires to new (used) tires, I'm hoping that will help, I also took a lot of weight out of the hatch since I got home (manual tranny and a bunch of other parts).