Six_Shooter

Yeah, I should have just contacted the seller when I saw the ad, instead of debating on it.

Could venting the inspection covers (I think that's the name of them), or maybe even removing them completly help get the air through the engine compartment/remove heat from the engine compartment as effectivly as raising the rear of the hood? That's an interesting look with the open and sealed "hatch", kinda reminds me of an old 'Vette with thos god aweful "wagon kits" from the '70s, though would probably be much easier to exicute in an asthetically pleasing manner on an S30. I would have to think however that it would only ruin the aero dynamics, just think about the most aerodymanic shape known, that being a water/tear drop shape, where the rear or trailing part is actually a point or as close to in the case of an automobile as can be acheived. Looking at the body lines of the S30 it almost looks like this is alreay in place, the long trailing hatch area, and even the 1/4s taper in behind the wheel wells.

Can anyone else get on http://www.classiczcars.com/ ? I've been trying since last night, to get on so that I could contact a seller in the classifieds about purchasing an S30.

Very cool metal art.

You can take one of the existing bolts with you and can be checked at the place you will be buying the bolts from.

I know this is an old thread, but just wanted to say for sure that the above pictured coil, twin post GM does NOT have a built in igniter. It is a simple coil with twin high tension outputs. There is a positive and trigger connection on the bottom side (below the plug wire towers), that connect directly to the ICM (Ignition Control Module). Only way around the need for the GM ICM (which would be an easy way to get a DIS ignition BTW), would be to use the MSD coil adaptors and only use the coil side of the adaptors to connect to an ignitor or trigger source. I can get pics of these coils if need be. Now the use of the GM ICM with these coils would be very easy to set-up. All it requires is a 7x trigger wheel (6 equally spaced and one "home" signal which IIRC is 10 degrees before #4 TDC on the original 6 cyilnder application). The timing is adjusted via the ECM through 4 other connections, which are the same as a GM elecronic remote coil dizzy. The engine will run without any ECM connection as the base timing is set in the ICM, and deciphers what coil to fire on it's own. The 4cyl variant also uses the same trigger wheel. I don't understand quite how that works, but I found it rather interesting when I had my GM 2.0L DIS crank and my GM 60 degree V6 crank side by side and the trigger wheels were identical. I don't recal where the home signal had to be refernced to for the 4 cyl though.

I use tiewraps to seperate mine.As in I will have a long tie wrap around all the wires in that area, then between the wires will be more tiewraps to seperate them, wraped arond the longer the tiewrap not around the wires themselves. This is easpecially halpful when you need to pull the wires to do a plug cut or work under the valve covers and the wires will then just lay back to thier respective cylinders. Numbering the wires helps too.

Well that sucks. Not that I'm a big fan or anything, but it just doesn't seem right to not watch the highlights (which is about all that I would be able to watch this year since my Sat still isn't set up. ). Hopefully everything gets sorted out by next year. It's too bad we have to live in fear these days.

Now that you posted some clear pics, I see I have the same wheels on my DD (1998 Malibu), but in the silver finish, not the chrome.

Barring the blurry pics, I think the wheels go well with the car. I even hate chrome rims, but on this it seems to match. Going with a less shiney wheel would them make teh bumpers and rocker panel trim overpowering, and then would need to remove parts of those.

*Disclaimer* I'm still learning about these cars, so bear that in mind when I ask these questions. I have seen mention of "T5" being used in the Z cars, but haven't found out how (dis)similar they may be to a domestic counter part, such as Mustang or Camaro T5, are there any pics of the "Nissan" BW T5 around, that I haven'y found yet? Also this collar that is pictured, I would assume it faces the rear of the car and helps keep dust and debris away from the yoke/seal?

YES!

I thought this is Hybrid Z?

Yep, I'm not a fan of Mallory products always seemed cheap and trouble prone.

Why do people do thing so ghetto anymore? The hose block off? Yeah thats good. The throttle linkage is no where near good enough, and will cause problems with the cable binding, putting excess side loading on the throttle shaft and may not hot WOT with that set up. There's one thing to attampt something, yet another to exicute it well.

While buulding your own harness may seem like the way to go, a better way would be to use some of the existing offerings from companies like Painless, Speedwire, Spaghetti Menders, etc. In many cases the wires are prelabled and even pre loomed for the wires that have common termination points. I usually buuld my own harnesses as well, but I'll be using a pre assembled fuse panel/harness, in my S30 (once I get one and to the point of wiring). Reason being is that for the price that I can get them for, it saves so much time just assembling something similar. For circuit selection, find these offerings and they will list the number of circuits and what those circuits are. A basic street car seems to need between 12 to 14 circuits, one with more options such as A/C, power Windows, power locks, etc, can need more, some compaines offer 18 circuit panels (maybe more). In a Race car 8 Circuit seems to be what is common, again sometimes more depending on the amount of electronics, such as dataloggers, EFI, controllers, etc. Also just because that circuit says "radio" doesn't mean that it HAS to be used for a radio, it could be used for another accessory that only needs power in the accessory position.

Taylor has a 4 post main disconnect switch, that will kill both the main battery feed to the vehcile and the Alternator charge lead in the same switch. Part# 1033 http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/pdfs/taylorcatalog37.pdf I'll have to read some of the links in this thread, but I have not heard of any problems with shutting off the alternator output through a disconnect switch, or even when using the two post switch with the charge lead wired to the battery side of the switch. The need to use the switch in this instance is very low and only when something else has gone terribly wrong, such as hitting the wall, at which point I think the alt will be the least of your worries. I could see how this may be a concern during the mandatory test at almost every tech in, especially at a sanctioned event. Also all rules that I have read state thet the positive side of the electrical system must be the switched side, not the negative. NHRA and IHRA for sure, it's been a while since I've seen any SCCA rules though, among others.

Maybe the title has been changed since you posted this, but I knew EXACTLY what he was asking about from the title, and why I clicked on the thread.

Curious why you say this? I have thought about the Ford 2.3 swap in to a 240 (once I get one), but not "box stock", I would only swap it along with a DOHC conversion. I almost bought a 1978 Mercury Bobcat one time, just to perform the DOHC swap and add a turbo to it. But I seem to like playing with slightly larger engines, and a couple more cylinders. There is a Fox bodied Mustang (1985 or so) that is in the 8's in the 1320.

I have had 4 Red Tops, my first one, lasted me about 7 years or so, and I put that one through hell, 4 cars, dead shorting it accidentally a few times with large wrenches, ran it dead one time with my 4-ways, left the stereo on all day and still crank the car. The only reason I replaced it was that it had a bad cell, and if I didn't get my truck to fire on the first start attempt (within about 3 seconds), it would be too discharged to try again. It rested at 9.7ish volts, winter was coming and my truck wasn't the easiest to start in warm(er) weather. My second one, I think I still have, it's been sitting for a few years now, and still holds a charge, I haven't cranked a car with it for a while, but have ran some electrical ite s off of it. 3rd one, was bought for my (now) ex-GF's car, when we broke up, she gave it back to me, and I sold it to another friend, who as far as I know is still using it, that owuld have been almost 4 years ago. 4th one, is the smaller "GM fit" Red Top for my Malibu, been using it for 3 years no issues. What I find with most repeated failed Optima batteries is that there is something in the charging system that is not good enough for the Optima. I find that anything less than an 8 AWG charge lead from the alternator to the under hood battery or 4 AWG for a remote mounted battery, is not good enough. Same goes for the grounds. A VERY good chassis ground is also paramount. I've used Deka batteries in a stereo application and seemed very good for that. I may try them in a starting battery application.

Ahh, yeah, I'm not sure either. Average diameter? *shrug*

Brake like normal. Bedding pads is something else, and even though I have NEVER experianced a difference in the way the brakes perform or last by bedding the pads in a "prefered" or "proper" way vs. Just using my brakes, or getting on them "too hard", "too soon". "prefered way" would be to use light to moderate braking for the first 500 Kms or so, so that the pad and rotor can wear in to each other. The way I do it: I just drive like I normally would, brake hard, brake light, emergency brake ( that's for the 400 series highways of southern Ontario ).

How turbulant can you make air flow in a vacuum environment? At anything less than WOT, any less than perfect flow pathes for the air will not make a differnce in cylinder fill, because well, the cylinders are not being filled as it is. That is that are not taking in as many oxygen molecules as they do at WOT (or fuel, but that's not exactly a function of the throttle plate, for this discussion).

Stay away from "Showcars" body parts. They seem to screw everyone they can. The junk they bring to the cars shows is just that, junk, the metal is always rusty, and more often then not has dents and dings, the fibreglass parts are usually wavy and always seme to have some sort of "repair" done to them. They are shady at best.

You mean the raduis at the end if the velocity stacks? You would take half the diameter of the radius, and subtract that from the total length, that is if you measured all the way to the end of the opening of the velocity stack, subtract half the raduis. For the small radii used in something like this it's only a change of usually about 1/4", when a 1/2" radius is used, which seems to be able average. Some of the more costly manifolds or the stack type intakes, that don't use a plenum I see upwards of about 1" radius, where that measurement might be a bit more critical.