Six_Shooter

The engine is completly infront of the front axle center line. The only suspension/engine clearance issue I could see would be when the tires are turned, and the front of the tire possible being very close to the engine. the frame rail does not NEED to go around the sides of the engine, the frame rail could pass over the head, in fact this might be a better way to go, to allow access to the spark plugs and head removal, for the headgaskets you will be replacing. If the inside of the frame rails are 25", and are about what 2.5" accross, that's 30" right there, the same width as the Subie engine according to the posts in this thread, so with the frame rail being modified to pass over the engine, or under if it works better for the intake and exhaust manifolds, then you should really have no tire to head clearance issues, in fact there should still be plenty of space to fabricate a small debris sheild to keep the engine protected from road debris. With the length of the S30 engine bay, this would leave LOTS of space behind the front axle line for large turbos, the rad, since it probably won't be able to stay in teh stock location, and enything else that needs to be in the engine bay, LOTS of space for it. Hmmmmm....... If only the rules of the race I want to enter would allow front frame rail modification.

You're thinking WAAAY too far into it. You use two completly seprate ignition systems, and use the stock firing order for each engine. I also don't think using motorcycle engines would give the desired outcome, due to usually very low torque output. Remember HP doesn't move vehciles, torque does. Horse power just determines how fast it could move the vehicle.

On most cars that means that your alternator is not charging. What voltage does your voltmeter show? Lower than normal?

My butt clenched when the pic popped up. I've done similar myself and know that kinda crap hurts.

It's official. After traveling over 2500 miles in less than 24 hours (mostly by plane), I have finalized the car I will be getting. 1973 240Z. It needs some TLC, but is complete. It looks to have aftermarket carbs on it, is very complete with only a very little bit of rust. A little bit on the driver dogleg, where it looks to have been hit with something, a small hole in the driver side of the front valence, and a less than 2" diameter hole in the passenger floor. There is also a bit of rust on the 1/4s, where the vinyl top trim attached. The carbs need a bit of work, or the choke does anyway, it's a bit hard to get running but does idle very nice when it warms up a bit. I'm very excited about this car and can't wait for it to be shipped home, which will hopefully be in the next couple of weeks, depending on how quick the trucking company gets to it. I don't have any of my pics ready to post yet, but will do so, once I get home (I'm still 2000 miles away at my uncles). I'll post a few pics that the seller posted: (There is a blue fender from the seller's parts car on it now) I have some video of it running from my visit to it yesterday. I'll have to wait until I get home to post it though. The trip from Calgary to Richland only took about 10 hours on Saturday, then drove a few hours back to Spokane through some very bad weather, the rolled over sanding truck just as we were leaving Richland should have been an indication. The trip between Spokane and Calgary (About 400 miles) took just about 12 and a half hours, due to poor weather and slow traffic. At times visibilty was less than 100 feet. according to Google, should have been about 8 hours. Just wanted to share my excitment of finally seeing my 240Z, and getting to meet Mike (the seller), who I would do business with again, the car was just as he described.

Doesn't it seem kinda ironic that the guy that owns the most heavily modified exterior S30 I've seen to say, make it a sleeper? BTW BlueovalZ, yours is one of the cleanest I've seen and for me a guy that doesn't like wide bodies or heavy body mods (on 99%) cars to like yours means that it's very well executed. I've even been thinking about a similar tail light treatment for mine, once I get to that stage of modification. back on topic, that looks pretty clean, but we want the other pictures, the ones that will show just how good it is. The usual rust place pictures.

In OTM's thread his that looked the same were Eagle.

Probably not, it seems that Norway also drives on the right side of the road. http://www.brianlucas.ca/roadside/

Is that a cigarette lighter in the dash?

Wow those "loose sketches" make me think twice about my dis-like of the looks of the G-nose.

Have you checked for voltage and/or trigger for that injector? It's hard to tell from your initial post if you mean that the injector for #6 is actually firing or not, kinda sounds like it is. If there is fuel and spark for sure in #6, then I would look at the valve train. I believe these engines use a cam follower and a hydraulic lifter to provide proper pre-load. If my understanding of these engines are correct the oil pump is at the front of the engine, and so the #6 lifters and cam ournals for that matter would be the last to get oil. I would look at the oil, how old/is there enough? Is the pressure good? Filter condition?

I don't know for sure, but if the S30 2+2 is anything like other cars that had a 2 seater "coupe" or 2+2 option, the only difference in the floor pans when it comes to repair panels was that the coupe panels were shorter than the 2+2 versions.

I've seen more people submarine using stock belts than using only 4 points of a 5 point harness. I can understand you're theory of the body twist, but I still can't see how one would be any more suseptable to submarining than with a stock belt, especially considering that the anti-submarine belt is or at least used to be an option. I was involved in an accident, I was a passenger in a car that was T-boned, the other people both submarined under the dash when they hit us. The lady in the passenger seat was so wedged that she couldn't release herself, I believe her legs were broken when they got her out. The lap belt was in the neck area. I'm not saying her thier belts were adusted properly, but I've seen this on more than one occasion. I think some of it may have to do with how the seat is adjusted and even what kind of seat is used. The plastic drag buckets that I find so uncomfortable, when installed right, give almost no way to submarine, due to the way the front of the seat comes up, and for lack of a better description cups your butt, and the way the lap belts come through the seat and hold the pelvis closer. I don't know who does the testing for the others, but SFI does the testing for NHRA and I believe IHRA as well. From what I have seen it's not usually the sactioning body that tests for safety to make the rules it's usually a thrid party, like SFI that tests and then tells the sanctioning bodies what works and what doesn't.

Wow, worst ebay ad evar!. No mention of what V8 they fit, and the pics are of the worst "quality" I've seen.

With the way this thread is going, there will be next to no 2+2 left soon, since everyone seems to want to scrape them, just for being 2+2s. Soon they will be worth very much more than coupes. I had considered getting a 2+2, but prefer the look with the coupe 1/4 window much more. Yeah I could cut and paste the coupe 1/4 window onto the 2+2, but that's too much like work.

Are you sure you didn't go from a 55A alt to a 65A alt, that would make more sense than going down in capability. Anyway. The stock guage would likely be no less than 60A capable, probably over the 65A if that was an available size. I have seen some smaller, but are usually used in very specific applications. I have seen as low as 30A capacity for automotive and related. Smaller are usually for monitoring specific electronic circuits. The extra 10A of capability most likely wouldn't be a problem, since I doubt you are using the full capacity, and will most likely stay below even 50A, unless you have upgraded to an electric fan, or other power hungry devices AND feeding them off the fuse box or down stream from the Ammeter. If you connect direct to the battery for a main power source, you won't max out the Ammeter, since the load will not be running through the Ammeter. I have not read an alternator upgrade guide that didn't mention changing or swapping out the ammeter for a voltmeter, in cars where that would be applicable. It may also depend on how the ammeter is connected in the system. Some cars had the alternator ran through the ammeter, other had the alternator connected to the battery and then only the vehicle electrical system running through the ammeter. Yes, there are shunt type ammeters, if you really feel the need to know how many amps are being drawn, personally I view that as more of a "bling factor" than anything useful. When talking about high current draw you're not really going to notice any changes that would indicate a problem, until it's too late. A volt meter on the other hand is much more useful in knowing how many volts are currently available in the system and if there is a change is easier and more quickly noticed than a small change in current draw that goes along with a drop in voltage. Pulling out the Ammeter is going to be one of the first things I'm going to do to my 240 when I get it, as I have a stock voltmeter coming with it.

I really can't see a 5 point harness (without using the anti-submarine belt) allowing an occupant to submarine any easier than a stock 3 point, UNLESS it's not been adjusted properly. I find that with most harnesses the lap portion is actually lower on my pelvic region, making it even more difficult for me to submarine, though that could break my hip bones easier it would seem, but the anti-submarine belt won't raise the lap belts any higher either. Also the harnesses ARE designed to release even with great pressure on the clasp, these are designed for racing where vehicles can get upside down. OEM belts are not designed with this in mind and is why most belts in a rollover need to be cut instead of unclasped. Try pulling on your belt next time you unclasp it, it won't be easy. Racing harnesses, are designed different and well there are different harness clasp styles, but most with a lever anyway will be easy enough to unclasp when upside down.

I agree, good for a conversion parts car, but quite rough. (For the Ebay car.) Still cool to look at. Maybe someday I'll invest in a RHD car , for now I have more than enough projects as it is.

Ok?

Yep, I'll be doing the same once I get some time. I'll be using at least two though. I also want to find a way to make a self sufficiant oiling system. Search you tube for "Home made jet turbine" and similar for some videos.

QFT!!! I will be using GM ECMs in my swaps. In my previous Typhony incarnation (see sig for link), I used a '7730 ECM with am EEPROM that had a stock code for a turbo 3.1, it wasn't ideal but it worked. I will be using a '7749 with custom code ($59 www.code59.org), for greater flexibility in tuning. I plan to use the same basic set-up for the 240, once I get to the point of swapping to EFI or when I swap the built engine in. The EFI swap might take place sooner depending on how much work the carbs really need. OEM EFI can do so much, people just don't seem to want to learn about them or buy into the hype about the aftermarket systems. I did look into Mega Squirt back when it first came out, but it didn't do nearly enough of what I needed it to do. No spark control, no emmsisions control and very basic fuel control. Then with the addition of spark control and a few other features that were added, I re-considered it, but after looking at the price of the MSnS system, and what the tuning equipment cost to tune the GM ECMs I decided that sticking with the GM ECM was still the better choice, as it does everything I need it to and more, including emmisions controls.

For anyone in the Southern Ontario area that wants work like this done, contact Tom's Upholstry in Brantford. They do amazing work. A friend of mine had a complete interior for his Del Sol done, custom stitched dash, doors, other parts covered, some parts dyed, new carpet etc, for less than $2000 CDN IIRC. I'll be using them for much of my interior when I get that far and much of mine will be custom parts. I'm torn on the suede, I like it, but I've not be a big fan of that much stitching on a dash. A little bit is ok, but that's getting to be too much. I like the idea of the other dash, I may do something similar in a different colour combination, probably combine different materials.

When I need an exact size I will use masking tape and a good sharp HSS drill bit. I sometimes drill a smaller hole and then file it to the size needed. If I just need a close to proper size hole (for mounting or where a washer will be used), I'll use a unibit or similar hole making device. I find that the ones I biuy from Princess Auto under the Power Fist name work better than the Unibit name brand bit. Two flutes in the Power Fist version, and seems to stay sharp longer and cut better because of the two flutes.

Stack up a second valve cover gasket. Just don't torque it down too much with a pair of gaskets or they will blow out very easily. It's not an ideal solution, but can work for a temp solution. Works better with metal core gaskets, or at least one of them being metal core.

JDM tail lights on a left hand drive? Someone's doing some virtual parts swapping.