Six_Shooter

Most people find that the engine temps change very little if at all using a FMIC. The heat that is passing through and being exchanged by the FMIC is quite a bit less than what the rad or A/C condenser see, hence why it is usually placed farthest forward. I think the hardest part about a SMIC, would be getting air flow through it. Usually these are placed inside the fender and will need some sort of duct work to pass air through the core. I would also be worried about rocks being thrown from the tire(s) into the core and requires some sort of protection, usually a screen of some sort. This will cause a lower amount of air passing through the core due to simple restriction of air flow. I thought about trying to get SMICs to work on my Jimmy, being on the outside of the frame rails, but decided that it would be easier to combine my two cores and place them between the frame, below the rad support I believe that the air flow would also be better. My previous IC was mounted in front of the rad. I know it's not a Z, but just an example.

Best advice I've ever read! I can't tell you how many times I've seen people screwed over by supoosed "good" shops, and in more than just machine work. I've always been one to do my own work anyway, but the more I see shoddy work done, the more it make me do even more of my own work. I've also been screwed over by people that have no idea what they're doing, too many "alignments" have been done on my cars due to incompentance. I just don't have the equipment to do alignments or I would do it myself, actually I will be trying to make the "home alignment" tools soon, to learn how to do it myself.

Sounds pretty decent.

Not much additional information. To save the rest of you some time, read the posts from Nero, he seems to be the only one that has any information on it, hard to say how accurate it really is though.

That's an interesting routing of the cold piping from the turbo to IC. I like it. Car looks good, sounds good too. I have heard about that miss under similar conditions with other engines too. If memory serves it has to do with tuning the fuel maps in the area that miss occurs. I'm not sure how the Wolf is set-up but the GM ECM this would be adjusted by tuning the VE table.

I've used the Aeroquip teflon braided, and I believe there was another hose company that offered the teflon braided hose. heavy85: You may be right, but the way I read the rule back a few years ago, was any flexible hose. In my eyes the braided is still rubber hose, it just happens to have a stainless steel braid over it. I know the local track gave one of my friends a hard time about having braided run the length of the car as well.

I agree with what some other's have been saying. You'd be surprised what just a simple fluid and filter change can do.

Yeah it needs to be made from carbon steel for it's magnetic properties.

It's generally cheaper to use hard line between the tank/fuel pump and the front of the car than to use braided all the way through. Also racing organizations, such as NHRA only allow a max length of braided line in the main feed line. It used to be 2', it may be different now, as I see a LOT of cars with more tha 2' in the main feed line. Butthey definatly don't allow braided front to rear.

You will usually find that the two heaviest corners will be diagnal from one another.

Look up Saturn5 on thirdgen.org. He used a pair on a 305 with good results.

The most painful experiance happened to me a couple months ago. A friend of mine is a Honduh guy. He had a Del Sol, that we built and did a bunch of work on, well it had a built engine. He decided to sell the car but wanted to keep the engine. So he some nutbar gomer do the swap for him. Well at the time of the engine swap an AEM fuel rail and Thottle body were also installed. After the swap it would not start, every now and then it would start and run for about 20 seconds, tap the gas at any tome before that and it would die instantly. Checked over everything that changed a different engine harness with ECU adaptor was used, thought there was a problem there, did find a couple things, corrected them, still same result. So he has the car towed home, so that it would be easier for him and I to work on it. Spent a couple nights going over the electrical. From the get go the pump never sounded just right, so I thought maybe Gomer had wired it backewards, nope it's right. So I check for fuel at the fuel rail, remove the FPR, no fuel. WTF? So I think maybe blocked fuel filter, so I crack the fuel rail inlet, and there's pressure, ok, now this is odd. Pull off the banjo fitting, glance at it and didn't notice right away, but looked at it again a little closer a minute later and there were NO HOLES in the inlet, fuel could not get into the fuel rail, well it did, but through the threads of the nut. Any way, remove the fuel rail, drill a couple holes in it to allow fuel to flow into the rail. Re-install, fires right up, and runs like a charm, idle a little high, but runs. I notice that there's a small leak at the banjo fitting. So I try adjucting the used and now marred washers to seal it better, this goes on for about 20 minutes, with a small leak always. Well I was getting frustrated, and decided I would lean over the car while my friend turns the key, well the leak was MUCH worse at this point and reacted like a water hose with your finger over the end, high pressure and long distance fuel sprinkler. What do I do? I back away quickly, but I also turn my head to the right, to protect my eyes, that are covered by my glasses, and for the fuel to get a better angle of entry in to my ear. About 30 seconds later I dropped to the ground from the pain of the fuel in my ear canal. I don't go down easily. That was some of the worst pain I've ever experiaced, about equal to cutting the end of my finger off with a table saw. It seems we are all just mutated members here, maybe there's some connection to HybridZ with mutation? HAHA

I don't understand the "transformers" connection.

I think I'm going to build in a back up when I get my 240.

That looks like fun, making want mine that much sooner

Wow, both videos are great. I have been thinking about learning how to dabble in video editting myself.

Have you guys not seen Tomb Raider 2? I've wanted to try this since the first time I've seen it, I just can't afford another hobby. There also aren't any mountains tall enough to around here either.

Or look at the post above yours.

What you are experiancing is the alternator feeding back into the ignition. I'm not familar (yet) with the starting and charging system on the S30, but I am very familar with the GM starting and charging systems. The stud on the back of the alternator is the charge stud and must be connected to the battery. In older GMs this stud was attached to the starter batter terminal through a fuseable link, newer GMs it is attached to the underhood fuse box through a fuse to the main battery input terminal. The Red wire is a "sense" wire that the regulator uses to sense the actual charge voltage to adjust the alternator output. The best place to connect this is also to the battery or same connection point as the main charge lead (starter battery terminal on older GMs). The brown wire is what turns the alternator "on", and is usually turned on through a "charge" light, the light in the guage cluster that shows your actualy charging. This needs to be through an ignition switch wire that is NOT the true ignition wire. Partly so that it isn't trying to charge while starting, but mostly so that the car does not run on like you are experiancing. You can as a quick fix insert a 3 amp diode in this wire with the line in the direction of the alternator. This will keep any power from back-feeding into the ignition system and keeping it powered up. I know on some cars this diode is needed, due to the layout of the ignition switch.

That's two links to moates.net in this thread already. Strotter; What UN do you go by on moates.net and TGO.net? I don't think enough people really find the true potential of the OEM GM EFI systems. I fully agree the learning curve is steep, but I would say it's not much steeper than using any aftermarket system. There's usually more emmisions and fuel economy options with the GM EFI than ANY aftermarket system I've seen.

If he has turned it over and it truely is free with no stuck rings, valves etc, then that's a good sign. I also forgot about the brakes, which will need new pads, shoes and flex lines at the very least, quite possibly calipers and wheel cylinders as well, as the seals will likely be dried out. Remember those things that will pop up that are easily forgotten, yeah I forgot about brakes.

It seems to be a bit much for a non running car but good shells are also hard to come by so you will have to weigh that in your decision. I don't think I would try and test the engine for compression where it sits. There's more to it than simply puuling the plugs screwing in the compression guage and spinning her over, when it's an engine that has sat for a long time. You'll want to take your time, inject some oil into the cylinders through the plug holes, maybe even need to go as far as pouring some diesel fuel into the cylinders to loosen up the rings, not to mention that most likely in the cylinders that have sat there with open valves could be rusty on the cylinder walls, that may take out teh rings the first time you go to turn it over, there are ways to reduce that chance, but take some time to do it right without pulling the engine apart. Best would be to at least pull the head (so a couple gaskets are going to cost a couple bucks), inspect teh cylinders and if they can be cleaned as it sits, then you can turn the engine over to clean up the bores and continue on. There will be a bunch of other issues that will come up that you hadn't thought of, like wiring, possible rodent damage, etc, that could cause problems. I can empatize with you about the wanting to rebuild/repair the project car with your own hands, the only car I've even owned that didn't need that was the daily driver I currently have, a 1998 Malibu, and I've owned a number of vehicles. The biggest thing will be to check over the sheel yourself for rust and rot, that's the hardest thing to repair IMO on any vehcile, other parts can be removed and replaced with doner/new parts much easier.

That'll buff right out.... Naw, it's pretty bad, but looks like it could be repaired. I've seen vehicles that were in worse shape and repaired, and drove like there was never anthing wrong with the car. Do you have any more pics? From the front of the car, I would like to see what your hood looks like, looks pretty good in those pics.

Ok, so I'm a sadistic bastard.... In for pics. Not just because I want to a manged S30, but because it will show me/us how well these cars hold up to an impact, or don't which ever the case may be. Before anyone thinks I'm unfeeling, the OP is fine physically, might be a bit sore in the morning as it usually seems to be the case, but mostly his pride is bruised. How long did you have this car? Doesn't sound long, because of the way you said your "dream car".