Six_Shooter

Yeah Turbo cars, especially ones with larger turbos, generally have a wicked top end charge, but seem to be a bit lazy in the first half of the track.

Factory GM ECMs can be used and tuned, fairly easily. There is a plethora of information on the subject at many corners of the internet. Most notable on www.thirdgen.org, specifically in the DIY PROM forum, along with additional information in ALTERNATIVE PORT EFI INTAKES forum, and ECM/DFI forum. The most commonly used tuning program is Tuner PRO RT, found at www.tunerpro.net, along with a source for the equipment found at www.moates.net. There are other sources for equipment, but haven't used them, except for my Willems Dual Power Programmer, everything else I use is from moates.net, or home made. There are a number of options when it comes to the type of EFI systems that can be used on an engine using GM parts and/or ECMs. From Speed Density, to MAF based systems. There are many parameters that can be tuned including emmisions based parameters. In my own set-up I am planning to use a '7749 ECM with code $59 (www.code59.org) Code $59, was made from a small group of people that liked the basics of code $58 (GMC Syclone and Typhoon), but wanted to build on it, adding 3 BAR MAP support, over 5 times as many tunable points in the main VE table for more accurate tuning, along with additional controls, that can be used for things like alcohol/water inection, nitrous control, boost control, etc. There are new variables and additions being made on a regular basis to improve on it even more.

The watts linkage just locates the De Dion (or any axle) in relation to the body. A track bar could have been used here as well, and I'm sure that a wishbone locator could have been adapted to fit this style suspension. The De Dion part is that large bar that runs side to side, but uses a seperate diff, that would normally be used in a full independant set-up.

I was just about to ask where, when I see you list Perth. I lived there for a little under 6 months. I also lived in Northam for about a month, when we first went to Austrailia. This was 20 years ago, but still remember it fondly. I do want to go back one day and make it to the places I couldn't.

You can use the "edit" button to edit your post. Between those two, I would probably go with the 240, especially if this will be a daily driver and especially being your first vehicle. Not saying that you will wreck or hurt your first car, but I know what I was like with my first car, I was pretty hard on it. I would then find an S30 to be a toy, will also give you more time to save up for a solid chassis and the required time to find a good solid chassis. Other vehilces that could match your criteria are S-series GM trucks/SUVs, I have one that I'm doing a "mild" build up on that will once again be my daily driver and more importantly a tow vehicle. You can pick up V6 3rd gen F-bodies pretty cheap. As much as I hate to suggest this, a Fox bodied Mustang in 4 cyl/LX trim can be had for pretty cheap.

Whoops looks like I need to do better math in my head. I forgot half a second there. Still plenty quick enough.

I haven't actually seen this style suspension in person, read about, and most of what I have read is that it is inferior to even a straight axle set-up. Reasons were strangth of the universal joints, bulky, and something about the way the suspension reacted when going over a bump could cause th ecar to steer from the rear of the car. It has been a while since I read about it though. The only issue I see is getting the tube or link between each knuckle to fit under the S30 chassis. Might have to cut out part of the floor to make it work. unless you can place the link low, basically in line with where the LCAs are now.

Daeron; We seem to be on the same wavelength. I'm more concerned about those significant differences in changes that are not so easily seen, especially from the outside. The marker lights, like you mention for example are of no consquence to me as I will be shaving them, along with a few other items. I think I may have found an earlier 240 anyway ('73). I am e-mailing back and forth with the owner currently.

There used to be kits very similar to this in the street rod world. So yes, it can be done, and with the right parts hold on a hill.

I'll repost from the other thread... Some people just don't understand the desire to modify thier cars, and take it to the next level. I guess swapping in an L28 didn't "ruin the value of the car", eh? I hate the "Buy a Five-Oh", type of guys. Because that's the only thing worth modifying.

I haven't been able to find info that was that "cut and dry". But from what I had read, it seemed to that it was you state cats were added in '76. I am trying to verify this, and if everyone concurs with this, the it seems I/we have the answer now. I have seen mention of the tranny tunnel differences on more than one occasion. It is also listed in the sticky. I was thinking the very same thing, but I only ever see mention of chassis upgrades/stiffening starting in '76, or was there for sure chassis changes made with the introduction of the 260, which was '75?

Sheds a bit more light on the subject, and to be honest, I forgot about the Cali emmisions. Just adds another variable to the mix.

Best reply yet! (In refernce to the idea of a Vista based system on board).

They are exempt from testing, in fact any car built before 1988 is, that's not my point. It's just easier to have all the equipment in place (even if it's not functional) to save the hassel of the fix-it tickets. I also will choose to have all the original equipment installed (well the parts that will work on the new engine ), since they really don't effect performance IMO, when they are functioning properly. The only one I'm worried about is the cat, since it is a restriction in the exhaust. I'd just like to know what the yearly changes were to the exhaust and emmisions equipment on the S30s so I'm better prepared in my search for the right S30 for me.

High 12. 12.80ish. I too, am not a fan of 1/8 mile, too short and just when you are getting into it, the ride is over.

ALL Emissions equipment HAS to be inplace on the car, and supposedly functioning, though it is just a visual inspection for those items. The cats they get a bit touchy over and will check to make sure they are not gutted. This is Ontario Canada, the Nazi province for emmisions. I really have no problem with the emmisions equipment, I just want to figure out what I'm going to need when it's complete. And weigh the pros and cons of each year. The tail pipe emmisions only need to meet the 1980 standards, but everything else has to be there, if the car was so equiped at the time of manufacture. A friend of mine has a 1979 Mustang Pace car, and was pulled over by the E-police, as he pulled into the Horton's parking lot (Coffee shop for those that don't live in the Great White North), and was initially charged with tampering with emmisions equipment, since his car did not have cats on it at the time, well as it turns out after some research, it never did. The Pace cars were not equipped with cats or at least the V8 Pace cars were not, I don't recall what was found out about the 4 cyl Pace cars. So it goes much deeper than the gas cap test. I've already been through this a bit with my other "Hot Rod", my 1985 GMC Jimmy, that at the time had a 3.2L Turbo (check in Members Projects for more details). Installing all the emmisions equipment just saves headaches and the cops that think they're mechanics and issue fix-it tickets.

I've looked through the sticky in this forum and did a search, but haven't found the information I'm looking for. What I have been trying to find and only read vague information about is the changes in the exhaust systems over the years. More specifically when cat converters were added to 1st gen Z-car line (S30)? Looking at the sticky it mentioned a larger tranny tunnel for the '76 model year, and have read the change in tranny tunnel was in relation to the addition of cats, but no year was associated with that info. I'm also curious about other emmision equipment that was used, such as EGR, EVAP canisters, or any other related equipment. The reason I ask is because once I get an S30, and do the requisite engine swap (HybridZ ), I need to keep all the existing or relacement emmisions equipment in place to be road worthy here in Ontario. I'm trying to weigh the pros and cons of going with the later model years, for the stiffer chassis over lack of emmisions, cat is what I'm mostly worried about, since that will effect, somewhat how the turbo will spool, even with a high flow cat. The rest of the emmisions devices have little effect on overall performance anyway, since they are either passive or shut off at WOT anyway. Thanks

QFT!!! Shipping and Handling is not a product, it is a service, AKA Labour, which can not be re-sold. The fact that it is a third party involved, the shipping company, also makes it that much less likely that there would be any sort of refund and would have to contact the shipping company themselves, which by the looks of it, they did thier job, without a hitch which means, services paid for and done with. Services AKA 'labour', is never in all the places I've worked or delt with a refundable "item". This is due to the fact that, as I mentioned earlier, it is not a re-saleable product. What you are basically paying for is someone's/company's time. The only way that it could be, is to go back in time, and change everything that happened in that time period.

Ok, now I see it.

Yep and although it seems that most Honda seat looked similar they probably are closer to the CRX than Prelude that I mentioned earlier.

Sweet, Thanks.

Uhhh, no. All I see is flaked paint from curbing the front bumper.

I find tha trickle charging Optimas just doesn't work, you almost have to force feed them with current. I turn up the charge rate to at least 20 amps, seems to work better at 30 amps or so. This works if the Optima hasn't gone below about 8V or so, even then there's been one or two that haven't come back to being useable. That's not too bad considering that a conventional 12V battery is considered dead and beyond useable capability of being reconditioned at approx 9V.

Looks like late '80s to early '90s Prelude.

Is there really anything wrong with that?