Corzette

Semper Fi brother! GySgt Baldwin USMC Ret GS-11 Supo My son is signing up as we speak....

Well ughh just paid $18,000 for the Orange BBC 396 280Z T56 and soon to be a 468 with AFR 335s....lol...oh damn then we will need the R230 upgrade as well......then Ross's stubs....ugh....damn..... Terry

Hmmm couldnt we just measure the mounting point difference side by side and have a shop remount the perches? I have an extra set of 240 rears and I just bought this BBC 396 280Z so I can measure the difference if anyone is interested. Im sure the relocation of the perch would not be expensive or time consuming to have it done...anyone interested? I think putting lowering springs on to make up the difference may put undue stress on the travel of your struts by keeping them partially compressed at all times...just thinking into this a little... Terry

If its a drag car put in an auto and convertor to match or your car may really be a drag rather than good at it...However if its the windies you like keep the stick. Damn ur car looks alot like my new BBC 280Z...nice color! Nice vids too! Im already thinking about putting in a Turbo 400 auto as well, just waste too much time shifting and of coarse the possiblities of missing a shift or over reving etc. I blew up alot of trannies in the past learning how to drag with them. I cant afford to blow up a T56, way too expensive! Beautiful car man! Terry

LMAO! Go for it! That would be cool if we wouldnt get in trouble for it! HaHaHAHA. Terry

Amen, wouldnt have it any other way...well I just spent $18,000 on the 280 BBC T56 show car I just got so I must be hooked... CorZette

Hanns, 6.30 at 112? OMG...I wish I could have seen it.....one of these days...Im gonna start saving money from the 24th of June 2005 until sometime in 2010....lol When I get back from japan I will have many questions on how to do it up! Terry

Bob I did a simple calculation on your engine assuming a few things: Bore 4.00 Stroke 3.48 Deck Height .030 Gasket Thickness .040 Valve Reliefs 5 ccs Combustion Chamber 79ccs I calculate 8.28 to 1 Static Compression http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html Also with 200 RWHP your still looking at a high 13 sec 98 MPH quarter cruiser. Terry

WTF? OK Im about to go back into the Gunny mode...I knew there was a reason I had 17 inch guns.....I want him standing tall in my office tomorrow morning.....WTF?

I love it! Thats the look I have been looking for. Were the lights expensive? Terry

Ill chime in here. I had a L28 bored to L29 Mikuni 40s to start and headers, MSD etc.. I know that compared to the SUs, the triples were a major upgrade power wise. I could feel the difference by seat of the pants. I then upgraded to the 44s and did even better. Mikuni also had a 50mm carb setup but was alot harder to tune and keep tuned. The 44s were easy to tune and didnt need alot of adjusting. My mechanic Japanese guy at the time would put a piece of fuel line in his ear and the other end in the carb horn and tune it by ear. They also sold an air meter gauge thingy that you could put over the horn to tune that way. Either way, I never had any problems with them except that you should have a return fuel flow system. The triples will flow over from the bowl out your air horns if you put too much fuel pressure to them. The pressure is really low like 3 to 5 PSI if memory serves me right. You can start a fire really easy on a hot set of headers and raw gas pouring on to them. Webers come in a 45mm setup I think and would be my second choice. The four barrel setup did not work as well from a few people Ive known in the past. Probably because of the way it sits in the compartment and angle in induction etc...just my two cents worth.

I know what ya mean I brought one back in the late eightys. In and Out Burger was the only place I could drive thru with out backing in...lol!

Flare it, the girls like em big and wide...dont tuck it they will never know how big ur rubber is.....

Buy the car and swap all the parts to a good US shell and then youll have a fairlady.....forget the rust bucket, its the parts that count...

Mike its the same externally as the L26 or L28...you have to look on the side of the engine and see what number is stamped on it...L20 etc...Put the L20 crank in an L28 block with L20 Head if ya want more compression... Oh if I remember correctly I did put a L20 head on a L28 and it ran crappy....It was a long time ago though...

FYI....I had a L20 in a Fairlady with triple Solex and header etc and it was a dog. Its comparable to a stock 2.0 liter 4 cylinder. Small small pistons...dont waste your time get the L28 block if anything to start with...Just my 2 cents worth... The 800 extra ccs makes it feel like a rocket comparitively...I was running around 17 sec quarters with the L20 and 14.5s NA with the L28 on a 74 2 plus 2 at Carlsbad raceway in the mid eightys...pics on website, the BAT MO Z... Terry

Hugh http://www.zbarn.com There are some differences, here are a few: Sway Bar "D" Bushing Sets SU1010 18mm Fr. 240-280Z $9.40 SU1012 20mm Fr. 240-280Z $9.40 SU1014 20mm Rr. 240-280Z $9.40 SU2010 21mm Fr. 280ZX $9.40 SU2012 23mm Fr. 280ZX $9.40 SU2014 19mm Rr. 280ZX $9.40 Steering Couplers ST1013 1970-1983 $10.45 Sway Bar Drop Link Kits SU1020 s. bar d.l. kit 70-78 FR. & Rr $20.95 SU2020 s. bar d.l. kit 79-89 FR. & Rr $20.95 Control Arm Bushing Sets SU1026 Front lower 240-280Z $20.95 SU2023 Front lower 280ZX $20.95 SU1024 Rear 240-280Z $73.95 SU2025 Rear 240-280Z $36.70 Strut Rod Bushing Set SU1032 240-280ZX Front $23.05 Differential Carrier Bushing KIt SU1042 240-280Z $29.95 Transmission X-Member Bushing Kit SU1041 240-280Z $10.95 Strut Bump Stops SU1044 240-280Z Fr.& Rr. $10.95 SU1044 280ZX Fr. $10.95 Tie Rod Dust Boots SU1003 240-280Z & 280ZX Fr. $4.15 SU3001 300ZX Fr. $4.15

Back to R200 ratios. I have ran the 354 and a 411. With these cars there is no need to worry about a 354 vice 370 unless you just want more top end. Tire size will tune that ratio as well. I was running a 411 with 27 inch tires and crossing the traps at 6000 RPM in third running 11.97/8s with 1.60 60s. I switched to a 354 R200 and went a best of 11.91 with two 1.59 60s but only crossing the traps at around 5600/700 RPMS Depends where you want the power to end up I guess. If you run an open diff there is no problem hooking with the right tires and suspension but you will eventually break the pin in the diff after 50 to 75 runs if your at 375/400 RWHP. I love the open diff and am looking at a way to fab a 4340 solid steel pin to replace the current ones. The pin seems like the weak link in those diffs but a cheap fix if I can find a way to fab them..... Terry

LMAO, I dont need much encouragement! It would be killer to say "I have a 502 in there for daily cruising"...and the weight ratio is 50/50 50% engine and 50% car! Terry

Thanks Mike!

I know your right Guy and Im probably just talking smack but man the dreams dont stop coming... Terry

Damn this looks like my car except for the flairs. I really want these to upgrade my 240s stance. Are those the YZ rears? http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL83/533777/7386540/96475985.jpg Terry

Yippee! Thats good news......Ill have three years to decide.....may go with the aluminum BBC that grumpy was talking about... Terry

Tim, is the block the same size for a 502 with the same mounting points? I was thinking a 454 block 90 over with a 4.25 stroke for a 503 Cube combo. Then add some AFRs a little bigger cam and wholla.... Hey can anyone run that on the Desktop Dyno.. Flat tops, single plane and 850Dp etc.. Terry

Whew! Thanks again guys. I am in awe as well and cant believe the opportunity came about. The wheels are 18 inch and the dash is an OEM brand new dash with carbon fiber gauges reinserted into the original pods, NASCAR seat belts on RECAROS, DISK upgrades, 300ZX AXLES, Koni adjustable struts, 22 Gallon cell, metal flares, gosh I dont even know what all yet...will post when I get the list. The car just won its class at the show in San Antonio a few weeks back... Terry