Corzette

Well I am going to the Idalou Race Track this Sunday. It s near Lubbock. The closest 1/4 mile around. Also my car is acting up (go figure). The pump is doing wierd crap all of the sudden. Oh well new plugs tonight, oil change tomorrow, carb tune and fuel filter change and away I go. I will et all know what my times are next week. I suspect in the 12's somewhere since Ill be at around 4000 feet elevation. ZFAN great times!!! Terry

Thanks guys....one note to add, when I had my 3.90 diff on it would only take off spinning from one side, no slide from the back end. This diff always spins both tires on take off and slides the back end during lane changes if I punch it....Im happy as can be though CZ

Heres the deal. I have an R200 3.54 diff. It is apparently an LSD by the below pic. As you can see it is posi. This diff came with the car and I got the CV conversion done using the 280ZX shafts. How can this be? I thought that only the 300ZX 3.70 diff was LSD....Anyone care to explain this to me? Tim u out there? CZ

Thanks Tim!!!! You have helped me in the past as well and I appreciate it...

Mike great times on 315HP. I cant wait to get to the track. Once you port match the VJr. Youll be impressed! I say 10s are getting closer! CorZette

Good info: Editor's note: I would NOT suggest that a person use the following fuel mixtures without considering the detrimental effects on your engine, vital engine components (O2 sensor, etc), and other potential damage. That said, the information is interesting. Original published in: GS-Xtra 1213 Gornto Road Valdosta, GA 31602 (912) 244-0577 Editor: Richard Lasetter, president Gran Sport Club of America (GSCA) Formula #1 - Toluene R+M/2.........114 Cost...........$2.50/gal Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium 10%...........94.2 Octane 20%...........96.4 Octane 30%...........98.6 Octane Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores. Formula #2 - Xylene R+M/2.........117 Cost...........$2.75/gal Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium 10%...........94.5 Octane 20%...........97.0 Octane 30%...........99.5 Octane Notes: Similar to Toluene. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, i.e. from 92 to 92.3. Usually mixed with Toluene and advertised as *race formula*. Formula #3 - Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE) R+M/2.........118 Cost...........$3.50/gal Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium 10%...........94.6 Octane 20%...........97.2 Octane 30%...........99.8 Octane Notes: Oxygenate. Very common in octane booster products. Has lower BTU content than toluene or xylene, but oxygenate effect makes the gasoline burn better and produce more energy. Formula #4 - Methanol or Ethanol R+M/2.........101 Cost...........$0.60 - $1.75/gal Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium 10%...........94.3 Octane (Methanol) 10%...........94.7 Octane (Ethanol) 20%...........Not Recommended Notes: Methanol is wood alcohol. Ethanol is grain alcohol and found in Gasohol in 10% ratios. Both alcohols are mildly corrosive and will eat gas tank linings, rubber and aluminum if used in excessive ratios. Main ingredient in "Gas Dryers", combine with water. Formula #5 - Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol R+M/2.........101 Cost...........$0.60-$1.50/gal Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium 10%...........94.5 Octane 20%...........Not Recommended 30%...........Not Recommended Notes: Similar to Methanol/Ethanol. Isopropyl Alcohol is simply rubbing alcohol. Sample Mixture To make your own octane booster, it is easiest to make up a large batch, and then bottle it up in "dosage-size" uses. Below is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products. To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal): 100 oz of toluene for octane boost 25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent) 3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent) This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes.

I have done the CV swap with the 280ZX adapters from Ross and love them, but if I switch to a 87 88 R200 from a 300ZX will the adapters accomodate the new axles or do I need to order a different adapter? CorZette

Heres some power for ya....little pricy though..theres a 525HP 630TQ package for 14gs http://www.turnkeyenginesupply.com/57390.html CZ

WEll if the tranny was drained and you rebuilt it then put fluid in it before install, the answer is yes, you will need to let it run for awhile and I would suggest putting it in drive and reverse after that to make sure the fluid is circulating well. Did you put in about a quart of fluid into your converter before installing? If its dry then hopefully the pump will get it lubricated in a timely manner to prevent any damage. Make sure you have enough fluid in it. I think I put 12 or 13 quarts in mine if memory serves me correctly. Just some thoughts since I have the 700R4 as well....let us know how it turns out. CZ

Make sure the linkage is adjusted correctly...park is park on so on.... CZ

Way to go!!!!!

Merry Christmas all! In Japanese it would be something like.. Meri Kurisumasu! Hope everyone has a a safe holiday. One more month closer to the tracks opening. CZ

I know most people have these inline to protect thier brake boosters, but where in the hell do you get a 3/8 inline check valve? I have tried everyone autoparts place in town and noone sells them. Anyone care to share the secret or part number? Terry

If anyones interested this is a good site for the happenings in Okinawa racing etc... http://www.zeroyon.com Terry

Hey I fixed that rooster....PET CAWK!

Tim, your car looks awesome!!!! Man black is beautiful isnt it! Well remember the road runner? That was one quick chicken! Terry

What the hell??? I guess that was edited by someone. Thanks for looking out. Too funny. I guess they should call it something else... CZ

I just imported my Z to and from. It has to be a 1976 or older to go or come from Japan. At least via the military. I imported a fairlady back in 1986 and EPA was waived after being at least 10 years old. The DOT had to comply. West Coast Imports took care of that for me and cost $800 for the conversion back then. Consists of putting little bullcrap tubing in the doors and bumpers etc. Your windows should have DOT on all of them. They will also install a seat belt buzzer if you dont have one. I have heard that the new AC system is required but dont know for sure. The conversion shop will post your bond for you to cover your car until it is released. Sort of a pain unless your miltary I expect. Just my 2 cents worth since Ive done it three times now....

LMAO!!!!! Hey if we attached it to the space shuttle it could go 17,000 MPH plus in space! Better replace those door seals though! CZ

I did away with the rad mount all together. I have the Griffin aluminum rad and just had tabs welded on each side then it just sits down on the frame and I bolted it to the radiator opening with rubber washers in between. Just another option. Costs me $50 for the tabs and a pet cock (cawk) plumbed in. I think I have a pic or two in my album...Ill check. CZ

OK, heres the deal for those that are thinking of the rear disk swap. If you do it and have a 240 MC and brake booster, replace it with the 10 inch unit or the 280ZX booster and MC. After I swapped that in today I couldnt believe the improvement in braking. Its like night and day. I have a good stiff pedal that stops very well. The back does not lock up with the fronts either even though I still havent put the proportion valve in yet. I dare to say that I am finished with the upgrades.....I still need to get some tubing welded in under the car where the rear frame starts just behind the seatbelt box on the floor. I can see some twisting going on there and need to get it welded in soon. Oh I did have to turn the booster upside down to be able to fit the best thru the firewall (280ZX Booster). I removed the spacer on the booster and had to remove the nut on the the front of the pedal stop then screw it all the way in to get proper clearance for mounting the pedal to the booster fork. Its a perfect fit. You will have to redrill the firewall too if you still have the stock 240 booster. Other than that it was a piece of cake. Terry

Such a sad day.......oh geepers who am I kidding?

Guys I put up some cool pics of my rollcage and some others before I left Okinawa. Check em out below under the RollCage Album.... CZ

Well Im finally finished. Many hours in the garage yesterday to complete the CV swap. It was very easy and I would recommend anyone doing it themselves. I am sorry to say I must defect from JSR because I drove the Z lastnight with great results!!!!! Ill always remember the great times we had on the stands instead of in the stands!!! CZ

Click on my site below, there are many pics on most things there... CZ