Corzette

Well said......A B C D......XYZ..... I think it should be ZETTE vice ZEDD though because in Japan its pronounced as "ZETTO" Just drop the O and add an E.... CZ

WoooHooo! Congrats Denny! Enjoy!

Well I have to say a couple of things... 1. Do you have to upgrade? No the drums will work depending on what your doing with the car. The bad things is that the drum stuff is getting harder to find and keep up etc. Old technology. The Disks are newer technology and more simple to upkeep and last longer with less problems. 2. Do they feel better than the drums? Yes, on mine I could tell a difference in pedal and stopping. I would suggest upgrading the MC and Booster as well if you have a 240Z to put more fluid in the lines and have more vacuum assist for braking. Also, the proportion valve to the rear line is a good thing too to help even out the ratio from front to rear. So far I am very happy I did it. Overall it just makes everything easier and brings it up to date. If you plan on keeping your Z forever like me, then why not upgrade her as you can. The fronts are most important I think however. CZ

UPDATE.... Completed the rear disk swap...too cool!!! Me likey. The vibration was coming from the rear drums and now its smooth as frog hair....me happy. I got rid of the rear clunking over bumps by inserting the spacer washer in the illuminas like I was supposed to in the first place. Figured out the E-Brake thing...Im stupid...however I have to take out the E-Brake mount where the anchor plate is where it swivels just behind the e-Brake arm because it fell out of its hole and is misaligned...does that make fricken sense Tuesday I will take her in for the tranny stuff....more to come....

Well, everything bolted up really easy..no probs there. I did swap the E-Brake cable like suggested and it fits good. I am not putting a P valve in line yet. I really dont think I need one. It stops fine. However I am upgrading to the 280ZX Booster and MC. It just makes sense to me that if you double your caliper volume, adding a bigger MC and Booster goes right in line. I figured out the E-Brake problem but there still isnt a clip that will fit to hold it solid. I think you could put a hose clamp around the top of the mount fork to keep the cable from possibly popping out but Ill think of something. At anyrate it was a cool install. After Monday doing my Booster valve upgrade to the 700R4 and filter/rear yoke seal, I am gonna tackle the CV upgrade...wish me luck......no more vibrations...it was all coming from the drum brakes being out of line....I have all the drum stuff for sale cheap if anyone wants them....oops I better post in the other forum...

Update!!!! Well I finished the rear disk upgrade. It was easy and time consuming but fun. I am still trying to figure out the attachment method for the clip on the E-Brake cable though. Not the one provided but where and how to anchor the cable without having them pop out of the little arm on the 240SX calipers) Also I made a mistake, I am replacing the Boost Valve, not the Throttle Valve on the 700r4 for firmer shifts (Big Difference). Dont let the tranny shop tell you that you have to take off the throttle body to do this because YOU DONT...They just want to make more money. I got an estimate today for the following: Oil and Filter Change (Tranny) Rear Yoke seal replacement (Leaking) Boost Valve .500 upgrade (Super Firm Shifts) for a total price of $100 Im stoked about that! Oh yeah, remember i got the 280 rear strut caps to quieten down the rattle in the back....after taking it apart I found that i had not placed the spacer washer on the top of the Tokiko strut before tightening down the retainer (the cap that holds the strut in the tube). This left an 1/8 of an inch play which caused the rattle....stupid me. Any way I put those in and now it feels like a new car. Oh yeah also when I took my old drums off I found that the drum piston on the left side was out and bent!!!!! remember the vibration I had and thought it was the drive shaft? You got it...after my disk upgrade I drove it and SURPRIZE no more vibrations.... Im happy right now. So after the tranny work is done, I will attempt the CV swap.....more to come... Oh I do have a drain plug! Terry

Yeah its the kit from Ross...Brembo rotors, 240SX calipers, carbon fiber pads with E-Brake and Zinc coated brakets. I got them all on OK and the brakes work but the E-Brake does not and was wondering how you keep the cable from flying off the arm on the calipers. It is too thick to put the stock clip on it. I think the E-Brake is a major problem for Zs anyway. Can someone shed some light on the hold down method of the E-Brake cable once hooked up to the caliper? CZ

Well for all of those that have gone before me, I now share half of your excitement. I started my rear disk swap today. Man It was a beach to get the dust cover off with a hack saw But it was accomplished. Man that setup looks so sweet I just want to sit and look at it. Now I have to do the other side tomorrow! Has anyone done the 280ZX Brake booster and MC swap into your 240? Was it a direct bolt in? Do I really need a spacer and turn the booster upside down? More to come!!!! CZ

Amen to that...I hate everyone too ...uh..well except for the Z brothers and sisters! But seriously, government and policy has gone too far. I do live in the country with 4 acres and I love it. The Marine Corps background helped alot too. My kids are now old enough and programmed the right way that I dont have to worry much about them being one of those kids. My son always comes homes telling me how stupid the kids at school are etc.. He is in JROTC and it has been the best thing for him....I watched him change and influence my other two kids beyond belief....life is good so far....

Cool story...

Well heres something to get us started...not a bad game....kinda stresses you out though...lol http://www.trustmymechanic.com/racegame.html CZ

By the way when I was born, I was already 21 so I was never a kid!

I agree, the kids are reflections of thier parents anyway, some dont want to admit it. Who really knows what goes on behind closed doors. Off with thier heads I say!

Thanks guys...Im on it... CZ

Be advised that the retrofit hydraulic roller lifters are expensive as hell! I think around $400+! from Comp cams....also make sure they dont sell you stuff that is being discontinued. They have done that crap to me twice, once on KB106 pistons and again on the rollers.....be aware when you order to ask the questions... Terry

I would say yes because I have the retrofit stuff in mine. I dont remember asking for a retrofit cam when I bought it but I could be wrong. Just tell the store your buying it from what your plans are and they should be able to put your mind at ease.

Looks great!!!

Hey whats the best way to polish up the WELD rims? I have a drill, do they sell an attachment I can use? Anyone have any input? I know to get the aluminum polishing compound but do they sell an attachment for a drill? CZ

Mike, I was told if all of us married folks wait till were about 70 or so that all the wives will have hooters like that......well a little lower I guess...

Lol! Roger that! Im already freaking out when I get on it now...I havent gotten used to it. Once it hits third gear its like that Racer X feeling on Speed racer... Ive never driven anything faster than 13.7 down the strip so one step at a time I guess... thanks for the input.. Terry

Thought I would throw this out....I found a SBC 400 never bored short block for $100. Its an old Mexican guy that wants to sell it. He said the block is good and he will guarentee it. Question is what do I do initially to freshen it up? Get it tanked amd magnafluxed? Also should I bore out the steam holes? Finally have new freeze plugs installed I assume. I want it to put on my engine stand until Im ready to build it. Should I have the crank turned 10 thousandths as well for the hell of it? Also how much should I have it bored? Is 30 over a good start? Finally should I have all the parts balanced? I dont know all involved between internal and external balancing. which one is best? Question for Grumpy! I want to put my AFR 190s on this engine possibly. My cam is the Comp cams XR282, 520/510. Im running the Holley750DP AFR match ported intake and will run the 1 5/8 block huggers until I can get the Sanderson 1 3/4 Long tubes. I will use my current 5.7 eagle rods full floaters. I will go with some flat top hypers as well and total seal rings. Can anyone estimate the HP in Desk Top dyno? I need to know if my HP/TQ will be better using the AFR190 heads as compared to the 350. My last dyno said 379.4 RWHP so it should be close to 450 off the 350 crank. AFRs build showed that so its close. How will the 406 do in comparison with the same add ons above? I dont want to spend a ton more on new stuff.... ZFAN, if this works out, I may go 406 vice 383....$100 is $100...I hope the block is intact. Thanks in advance...... Terry

Awesome article! Great car!

Cool, that should help tighten it up back there....

Thanks Tim! No it hasnt got here yet but Im sure it will soon. I hate that clunking sound from thr rear. Ill be happy to get those in. Arent the 280 caps about an inch higher than the 240s? If so that will be even better. Terry

Well I am now a member of the Jack Stand Racing Crew. For what its worth here are my current projects that will start December 8th: 1. Change Tranny filter and install Megavalve (Booster valve .500) COMPLETE 2. Install new rear strut caps from Tim240Z Dont need to, fixed the problem 3. Install upgraded 280ZX Brake Booster and MC from Denny411 COMPLETE 4. CV axle upgrade from Ross COMPLETE 5. Rear Disk upgrade from Ross Complete... 6. Do complete torque check on all bolts 7. Put 1/4 inch spacer under rear diff mount to cure drive shaft vibrations. I have the solid mount so it should be easy enough. DONT NEED IT ANYMORE Dont need to now because vibs were coming from rear drums...problem solved. So I guess Ill be busy enough for the winter. Then its off to the track when they open at Wall Raceway here in town in March.... CorZette