Corzette

OK, I was just told by a racing guru here in Angelo that if I cut a piece of screen door screen the size of a Carb gasket and put it in between the carb and intake, silicon it for a proper seal and torque down the carb, it will get better throttle response and AF mixture. This is because the squirters will then not just shoot raw gas straight into your intake but rather hit the screen and fan out more. Has anyone every tried this? Also you woundnt have to worry about dropping anything in the intake thru the carb. Any input or experience. Its sounds reasonable to me....

Hooker Headers cermaic coated part# 2001 is the way to go and affordable. There is not worry about fit... CZ

Scott just wanted to say it was nice meeting you and appreciate the frindly visit. You have some great ideas that you incorporated into your Z! Be cool... CZ

Itll work! I may go that route later....since Ill probably only race mine and do an ocassional Sonic run. By the way Mike thanks for the hospitality at Cedar Hill. You guys are a class act and I enjoyed the visit. The drive home sucked however...lol. Yeah I forgot to ask about the rotisseri. Oh well dont worry about it as it would be too much trouble to get it now I think. Have a safe move!!! CZ

I guess so...

Know what you mean...Ive been there before....now my son wants to join in two years....what do I say? Semper Fi....

Wow! Thats a huge variation. I might have to call NISSAN and verify before proceeding. Anyone else want to verify???? Terry you out there? CZ

No I just got back from Japan and retiring from the Marine Corps. I used to go to Temple High in the 70s....

Thanks for the data. I cant run mine until spring but I did dyno it in Japan, They only show max HP and the torque and RPMS at the max HP. The chart just drops off after that. I actually had 379.4 at the wheels. I have a dyno sheet on my site below. Anyway it showed max HP at 6120 RPMS and 365 TORQUE at 6120 RPMS with 379.4 HP. I am assuming that my max torque was in the 400s for sure at around 4500 or so. I built the same setup thats on the AFR site for the 450 crank HP build. According to that I should have a peak of 470 ish crank HP which would be around 400 or so at the wheels. Im sure it will vary but Im just trying to compare to get an idea. Japan was also sea level. San Angelo is 2200 ft above. Thanks for the info..

MAS280, what RWHP are you running? CZ

JM, good info....my compressor tank from Lowes will be coming soon! I cant wait to get the air tools... CZ

Hey Z8RED, thats an old RX7 rear spoiler right? I had one on my old Fairlady ZLine. You can see it on my site below. I think it looks great molded into the rear. I wish I could find another one. CZ

I was just told that I will get a $200 fine for having my tinted headlight covers on my Z in Texas. WTF? Is this true Texas Zers...tell me it isn't so....

I have found the answer about doing the flange CV swap and that nasty rear flange bolt removal...please read: Replacing Your Rear Wheel Bearings Replacing rear wheel bearings on your '70-'78 Z car is something you may have not yet undertaken, as it is not part of normal maintenance and usually only needed on very high mileage Z cars. Although some backyard mechanics may seem intimidated by the this project, there's no reason that you can't accomplish it with some guidance. First, securely support the rear of the car and remove the rear wheels. Now you don't have to remove the rear struts off the car. Although arm room is limited and having the car on a lift will help, I have accomplished this just with jackstands. This saves you some time and you don't have to re-bleed the brakes. However, if you're a first-timer, you are probably better off removing the rear strut, as it gives you more access space. Remove each strut by unbolting the rear halfshafts, the brake line, the parking brake cable and the inner lower transverse link mount from the car. There is no need to remove the transverse link arm from the strut, as this can be more difficult than changing rear bearings! After removing the strut, you will see a large 27mm nut on the back side of the stub axle. This nut has a "staked" or "peened" top, which means it's top lip has been bent over on two flat surfaces on the stub axle threads. This technique securely locks the nut in place, preventing it from loosening, but it makes removal somewhat difficult. To remove the peened stub axle nut, first chisel all the way around the top of the nut, not only just where it is flattened. Try to bend the entire top lip of the nut away from the shaft. Do not try to remove the nut until you have done this! This prevents any damage to the stub axle shaft threads as the nut is unscrewed. In addition, the peening greatly increases the amount of torque needed to loosen the nut. Don't worry about damaging the nut, you'll replace it anyway. You can also us a high speed cutting wheel (even a Dremel) to cut away the top of the nut--just go slowly and be careful not to cut the stub axle threads where the nut has been peened over. Now, the easiest method to loosen the nut is to use an air impact wrench. However, if you don't happen to own one, then you will have to resort to a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (usually along with a "cheater bar") and some arm muscle as the nut is tightened down with some 200 foot-pounds of torque! To keep the wheel/tire from rotating as you loosen/tighten the stub axle nut: Go down to your local scrap iron yard and get a 1" by 1" rectangular (hollow) metal bar about five feet long. Should cost you about $5. Drill two holes in one end and bolt it to two of the four holes in the flange that surrounds the stub axle nut. Leave room for your 27mm socket. If the nut is stubborn you can use a torch to heat up the nut. This expands the nut a little and makes it easier to get the nut loose. After the nut is [finally!] removed the stub axle can be removed from the strut housing. The stub axle is pressed into place so it must be driven out. There are two methods: "pushing" or "pulling". Pulling requires using a hub puller that is bolted to the flange where the wheel is mounted using lug nuts. A hub puller looks like a large dent puller with a sliding weight and can be rented from a tool rental place. You then use the sliding weight to pound the stub axle out. It takes a lot of effort, but it is the safer method as it will not damage the stub axle threads. Pushing is easier, because you don't need to have access to a hub puller. Using a large brass hammer the stub axle is hammered out from the backside of the strut. Extreme care must be used so as to not damage the threads of the stub axle! After removing the inner splined flange piece, reverse the 27mm nut and re-thread it back on the first several threads to protect the shaft and use a piece of wood or hard plastic between the hammer and the top of the shaft. Several strong blows will force the stub axle out of the strut. Once the stub axle is has been removed from the strut, examine the splines. Wear here is not unusual and this can cause a "clunking" noise during gear shifts. One of the rear axle bearings (there are two per side), the outer one, will come out with the stub axle. To remove this bearing requires what is called a "clamshaft puller". Again, you can rent one, but I recommend taking the stub axle (along with a new bearing) down to your local automotive machine shop and have them remove the old bearing and put the new one on. There is a hollow tubular "spacer" piece which can then be removed and then the inner bearing can be removed with a brass drift and hammer, after the seal has been pried out. The bearings cost around $15 to $20 each. Aftermarket ones are OK. You will need a new seal as well. Installation is the reverse sequence. Tap in the new inner bearing and then a new oil seal. Lube the lip of the oil seal with wheel bearing grease and force some grease into the new bearings. Re-pack the inner portion show by an asterisk in the below figure with grease. Don't forget about the spacer piece. Install the stub axle and tap into place. During re-assembly, I like to use the '82-'83 280ZX stub axle nut (Nissan part number 43262-W1200). This is a true "lock nut" type, so you do not have to flatten or "stake" it's sides. This will make (dare I say it!) future disassembly easier. When retorquing the new 27mm nut, apply some anti-seize compound to the threads to prevent galling, and torque to the recommended value (which involves monitoring the force required to spin the axle, measured at the wheel stud). The torque required is somewhere between 180 and 240 ft-lbs. However, most people just re-torque to 200 ft-lbs. For this, use a regular Craftsman torque wrench (good to 250 ft-lbs).

I found this surfing and it really helped me understand some things in doing our conversions, especially the rear flange removal with the pinned on nut.. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm Enjoy... CZ

Come on guys first of all lets look at this: I was impressed initially because no one went off on the guy for telling his story. Yes I was thinking "what a dumb #$$" but wouldnt make a fool out of anyone for learning the hard way. ON3GO was a true professional with his reply as well as everyone else. Way to go in holding up Hybridzs reputation (good job). However I can certainly understand that there is a place for this type of thing. I would put it in the non tech forum as well but lets not cut the guys nads off for trying to get our attention. Sometimes typed words can seem offensive when there really not. My suggestion would be to move on because he now knows it was a mistake to post in the this forum so lets let it go and continue to turn wrenchs. I think it was upsetting to some because we initially felt hurt for this guy for being such an idiot by putting sand into his intake and now feel stupid for initially believing it, so some get defensive. Yeah I fell for it too. Hey lets move on and think happy thoughts! Just my 2 cents! Still buds? Hey Im going to Dallas to pick up the Z.....later brothers!

Yeah! I am up at 0400 AM and am going to Dallas to get the Black Pearl of the Orient (well may need a fresh suit of paint later) but my car is here from Japan finally. I hope it didnt get damaged. Last time the hood was smashed from someone running into something. Ill keep my fingers crossed. I will be meeting RPMS and Maichor in Cedar Hill at noon for lunch. Dont know where but anyone in the area come on over. PM RPMS and ask for directions. After that its back down 67S to San Angelo. My transition is almost over....whew! Ill be back! Corzette Gy B

Oh I should have said that the last story about powerlifting was directed at RPMS. He is into that as well. Thought I could relate. Looked kinda funny just blurting that out. Kinda off subject. Sorry I forgot to put that in.

lol... Those were the days...

By the way I was a serious PowerLifter in my prime too a few years back. I won the Japanese Nationals in 1996 in the foreigner division (go Figure). I always competed in the 181 pound class and once in the 198. At 199 I tried to set the Okinawa Squat record at 660lbs in the 220 class but couldnt come up. (I did 650 in the gym a week before. You know how that goes. The thing I was known for was my squat and the fact that my legs were not big. I had a natural talent for big squats but really didnt ever figure out why. I did use my equipment to the max though. I was on the Far East Powerlifting team for a few years with the Marine Corps and had a blast. My coaches were Ausby Alexander, Dave Ricks, and Sylvester Anderson (SLY). All world champions and also Marines with the exception of Ricks who was Navy. My best lifts at 181 were SQ 605 DL 550 BP 350 Best total was 1470. I have an unrepairable right rotator cuff, 2 herniated disks, degenerate disk disease in the knees and double hernia to prove it. Ofcoarse I am 41 now and retired from the sport in 1997. I did a little meet in Lubbock in 2000 with NASA with my son but nothing really.I took everything to heart and ALWAYS pushed for the next 5 pounds. PowerLifting is awesome in that its always just you and the bar, not subjective crap like bodybuilding. Man I miss the sport and want to do it again but I am totally out of commission on the DL. I can probably still do 500 on the squat or so in my current shape but doesnt make sense to try. I still stay in the gym and keep in shape but I really miss the good ole days. And no I didnt use any drugs...I feel the same and hated those who I would beat by 100lbs total in one contest and lose by 100 the next. Those guys were always just here for a short time. I prevailed because I competed for 8 years and was always consistant. I will post more pics on my site soon since I saw yours. I have one squat pic in my first album where I was going for the 660. Check out my album below....anyway it got me excited again....I guess Ill just keep training my son (15) to carry on.....thanks for listening,,, Terry

Awesome! sounds good. Hey Mike lives in Cedar Hill too. I will be at his house after I pick up the Zed. A big huge ugly orange truck and car carrier with U-Haul on the side and carrying a black Pearl from the Orient....(I know Im dreaming again)....anyhow which a ways....call you tomorrow....if my eagle doesnt decide to take a nose dive.... Terry

Thanks, well the nut that came with the adapter from Ross doesnt need peening. I havent looked at mine yet but nothing is ever easy it seems. I may have to just take the whole assy to a machine shop and let them do it for me....thanks for the heads up guys....I will take pics when I do the swap and I will also be doing the rear disk conversion and 280ZX Booster /MC upgrade. Much work to keep me busy. Oh I also have a new wiring harness and signal light switch to install sometime....I just dont seem as motivated to do that as I am with the other stuff! By the way does any of you guys know which power wire feeds the signal light switch to the signal lights. Mine is shorted. the flashers work but the fuse blows for the signal lights. I am thinking about trying to by pass to the column and fuse it from there back to power. I have tried weeks to find the problem with no avail. This would be a temp solution until I do the harness swap. There are three red wires running to the signal light switch with a different color mixed I think. Does anyone know which powers the signal lights? I guess I can try by default until I find it. I would think that if my flashers work, the short shouldnt be in the lights path right? It should be the power feed path that is shorted somewhere right? Just thought I would ask.... Thanks! CZ

Roger that. I guess I should have said the Z. I was thinking about the hot temps in our Zs under the hood. I forgot that there were actually other car types out there...

Terry I got the adapters welded up by Ross and I got the 280ZX CV axles in hand. I also have the new flange nut and washer for each side. So heres what I do right: 1. Have the rear wheels firm on the ground or up on ramps as I like the extra clearance. 2. Remove old U-Jointed shafts from flange and diff and remove. 3.Use pry bar on each side of diff stub axles to pop out. 4.Get 1/2 drive and socket with a pipe for torque bar. 5. Remove nut (I think theres something about this nut that needs to be bent up or something before removing right? A lock of some type? 6. Remove nut and flange. 7. Grease and slide new flange back on. 8. Put on washer and new nut and torque to 180 to 200 ftlbs or so. 9. Make sure I have the right CV axles for each side (I assume the same length as the U-Joint axles will be the same sequence i.e. Longer one on the passenger side and shorter on the drivers side etc. Pop them in. 10. Unbolt the rear A-Arm inner bolts and cross member bolts to allow the A-Arm to swing out enough to clear the CV nipple. Bolt the CVs onto the flanges. 11. Push the A-Arms back into place and bolt up. make sure the diff front mount is tight etc. 12. jack down to level and make sure nothing hits etc. 13. Test Drive.... Did I forget anything? CZ

I will be in Dallas at 7:30 AM tomorrow morn. I have to be at the U-Haul place before 9 to get my trailer and truck. Then down to exit 457B Denton Road on the !35 to vehicle processing place to get Zette. Then down to Maichor's house on the way home....The UHaul place is 1501 W. Airport Freeway.... CZ 8)