Corzette

Spiirit, you da man....I think your talking about a different forum, like RB26 Turbod Cessnas??? CZ (The guy with the fouled damper)

OK, listen to this. I get my exhaust on, fire it up, it sounds great! Too much gas fumes coming out of the tail pipe (real rich, plugs black. I have the AFR190 heads and was running the AC43TS I think it was with the short threads. I call up the AFR guy and says "NO NO GET THOSE OUT OF THERE". He said to use the ACFR3LS plugs with the longer threads etc. They are discontinued so they cross referenced to NGK BCPR5ES. I went and got some, spaced them at around .042 and put them in. I fired her up and WHOLLA no more fumes, smoke anything and is very smooth now with no hesitation. What a difference the correct plugs make. All you AFR guys may want to check them out because it is a very noticeable difference. Now I just have to make sure my power valve is the right size. My cams duration is 282 so the 6.5 might be a little big. I will do a vaccuum check tomorrow and determine. So far so good@! Tomorrow I drive it to break in the engine for the first time on the highway! I cant sleep tonight! Well just thought I would share that strange experience with everyone..... Oh i have new pics too in new albums!

Guys I just wanted to ask your opinions on this. I want to buy the Proform main body for the 750 Holley DP. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D67100C Is this a valid investment? Also, the link below to save me from buying a million different jets, would this be a good option? Anybody got any input on the quality etc? Im thinking about getting both of these upgrades...please advise. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D55001HOL Exhaust is done and man it sounds sweet! Gonna Dyno in a couple of weeks!

OK I give up...it runs fine so Ill run it till it drops then order a 383 short block and do it right next time. Okinawa sucks majorly...Thanks for everyones patience. Engine runs fine timing marks dont jive...is set at TDC etc....just dont make sense....Im done worrying about it. Ill dyno it and see where were at...

So actually its 180 degrees out then? I would just turn it to TDC with the rotor pointing to #6 and take out and reinstall to #1 right? My TDC is correct however. Man if that the case, this thing is really gonna be a screamer...It burns the tire easily now...how funny

Wow! this could be the problem. I installed dot to dot but it friggin starts and runs pretty good. The only wierd thing is when I take off a vaccuum line it doesnt make much difference and it runs rich but no popping etc. I do have to crank the cap all the way left though. Would an engine run like this? I definately did not turn the crank around one rev before installing the distributor. I hope this is the problem! Crossing my fingers...

Here we go around the mullberry bush...OK still havent fixed my damper timing problem. Heres my question...here is what I read from another board on cam install and timing marks: "Observe the position of the "dots" on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket. If your rotor was pointing at the No. 1 terminal and your timing mark on the balancer was at 0 Deg. TDC, the "dots" BOTH should be at the 12 o'clock position on their respective sprockets. Also note the position of the locating dowel on the cam. Should be at 9 o'clock. We won't be installing the new timing chain yet, of course, but just keep the positions in mind or you'll be in for some trouble later. :)" With that said, here is how mine was done....I had the crank set at TDC (with Heads Off) and the crank dowel was pointing at 2 OClock with the dot on the crank sprocket at 12 OClock. My cam sprocket dot was at 6 OClock so the two lined up together . The cam dowel pin was at 3 OClock. The pointer was sitting at ZERO TDC. I put in my distributor at this setting and the rotor is pointing toward the #1 spark plug. This is not what the above post says but did I do it right? This could be the problem but it doesnt backfire or anything at the moment.....Grumpy are you tracking this? Corzette

Can you tell me how you hooked up your sender and gauge and what gauge you have etc. Mine will not work. I have the same cell as you. Thanks in advance! The car looks awesome! CorZette

Spiirit, by the way I got the Damper from Summit. Its the FLUID Street Damper 6 3/4 style part# FLU-716242. The cam is a retro fit roller assembly. CZ

Spiirit, Wow, this is getting exciting since we are getting closer. OK I have to admit I am a DUMB###. I did do everything EXCEPT...let me get this straight one more time.... I remove my distributor, find TDC #1 Exhaust valve, turn the crank to set at lets say 16 degrees advanced. OK here is the big question...with my crank setting at 16 degrees advance (static timing), I would then insert the distributor gear with rotor pointing at the #1 plug correct? If thats so then theres another 16 degrees.....because..... I initially set the distributor with the crank on zero. OK if I have an 8 degree correction on the damper and 16 degree on the initial timing setting, then that would be could be a total of 24 degrees off. 40 or so minus 24 is (DRUM ROLL) 16 total degees! I can then adjust from there right? Man I hope this is the right theory. Your move!

Thanks for all the help. I have just read that this new damper as compared to the old is set differently. about 8 degrees different. I just order the timing tape for this thing so I can see what is truely going on. If it doesnt check out then, I guess I have to drop the pan/cover and degree the cam. The marks were lined up just right however, so maybe the cam grind was out of whack....it sucks hard being in Japan without knowledgable V8 mechanics. I would rather pay someone to fix this and just drive it home. I can do 80% of anything needed but this wrench in the gear takes the cake....Im tired!!! At any rate the exhuast goes on Friday and it does burn the tires off like is so I will do my proper break in and hope nothing breaks out! Hey Im upgrading to a 383 new block when I get home anyway so I just need this thing to last alittle longer....

Spiirit, OK we checked TDC and it came out just right. The mark was the same as I had set it initially. The rotor points to the #1 plug wire as well. The car also starts right up. The timing marks are still like 50. If i rotate either way too much it will die. Again I have changed from an 8 inch Damper to a 6 3/4. Could this thing be the problem? Im going nuts but it seems to run fine. I advanced it until the starter started working to turn it over and then backed it down a bit. Now it will start right up and rev etc without back firing or anything. We are baffled...what else could it be? The drive gear on the distributor vs cam would not make a degree difference would it? I was told it was all compatible when I bought it. Your move ole wise one.....

Spiirit, OK we checked TDC and it came out just right. The mark was the same as I had set it initially. The rotor points to the #1 piston as well. The car also starts right up. The timing marks are still like 50. If i rotate either way too much it will die. Again I have changed from an 8 inch Damper to a 6 3/4. Could this thing be the problem? Im going nuts but it seems to run fine. I advanced it until the starter started working to turn it over and then backed it down a bit. Now it will start right up and rev etc without back firing or anything. We are baffled...what else could it be? The drive gear on the distributor vs cam would not make a degree difference would it? I was told it was all compatible when I bought it. Your move ole wise one.....

Spriit, thanks! I am finding true TDC again tonight via Grumpys advice and will do what you have said! Wish me luck...I will post in a day or so with the results....

During assembly, I put my thumb on the first spark plug hole...I turned the engine over by hand until the timing mark landed on zero. The pressure would blow my thumb off the hole so I knew it was the compression stroke. I then put in the distributor so that the rotor would point towards the #1 plug. Thats it, however when I start it I have to twist it counter clockwise to get it to run it best. Maybe I put the distributor in too far right of the #1 plug? Must Have More Advise....Id hate to drop the pan etc and find the timing gear are OK. Does that help?

Grumpy, TDC checks out. What if I put the distributor in 1 tooth off past the number 1 spark plug setting? Should the rotor actually point just before the #1 plug or towards the #1 piston? Maybe I have it seated a little off? Could that be the problem? Wouldnt hurt to check I guess..... CZ

Thanks guys...this is the damdest thing. I do have it at top dead center and the arrow points to zero. The car starts fine etc but the marks are not lining up when running. More to come I guess...

I used a 6 3/4 damper for my set back conversion. I used to have the 8 inch damper. Well my car runs fine but when I shoot the timing the marks say like 50 degrees advanced? If I turn it back much it will die. Is there any difference in the timing marks on a smaller damper? If I were 180 out would it still run and show the marks like that? Can any one offer some advice? Thanks in advance. CZ

Here it goes...I have the Summit Pro Street Cell with 0-90 GM Tube sender. I have the AutoMeter Gauge. The gauge has plus, minus and signal. The cell only has two wires. I know one is signal but is the other ground or hot? I hook it up many ways but it doesnt work. The needle stays pegged when I put the power to the gauge. Anyone have this happen before? HELP!!!

If anyone is interested, here is what I have to date: 73 240Z/357 SBC. AFR190 Heads, AFR Intake match ported, Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller retrofit 520/510 Cam, Retrofit Hydraulic Lifters and Rockers 1.5, Eagle full floating H Beams, KB106 Hyper flat tops, Scat Crank 3.48, Ceramic Block Huggers, Holley HP750DP, MSD Billet Distributor, MSD 6A Ignition, Blaster Coil, Edelbrock Aluminum WaterPump, Hi Flow Oil Pump, Griffin Aluminum Radiator, Underdrive Aluminum Pulley Set, Morosso 8.5 Red Wires, Fuel Cell 16 Gallon, Holley Blue Pump, 3 Way Return Regulator, AN Fittings through out, Crane Brake Booster Canister with gauge, 700R4 with 2800 stall lock-up, Toyota Front Brake Upgrade, Tokiko Illuminas 5 way adjustables, Dual 2 1/2 with x-pipe into DynoMax mufflers rear, Cowl Induction, Front Mount Tranny Cooler, Drag Lite Racing Rims, Mickey T ETs rear. Not to mention a total restore with floor pans and paint. Must have rollbar!

Hey guys thanks for the post! I am going to San Angelo on Wed. A shop there will shorten and balance for $40. I just hope they don't confiscate my shaft from me at the airport thinking its a pipe bomb or something... Im going to Lisbon NH and Amissville VA via Dulles for two days each as well. Anyone in those areas let me know...maybe we could meet and chat etc... I will have 5 days in Angelo and 2 each in the other areas. Thanks for all the help. I will be a Hybrid Master one of these days! I have some engine install pics coming soon. After I mounted my engine in the set back position for the first time it blew me away. Seems really tight and different than the Scarab. I guess Ill just have to get used to it! Another thing is before the restore it was only running 13.7's at best with about 300 HP crank. This build is supposed to be 450 or so. I havent driven anything with power for about a year and a half so Im sure it will take some getting used to again. Can't wait! Pics will be up soon!

Thanks! That info is a life saver. I am having mine shortened 1 1/4 inches for a total length of 19 1/4 center to center for $40 and balanced in Texas. They wanted $200 here in Okinawa...what a joke..

My drive shaft is too long 20.5 inches center to center 700R4 Stealth yoke. My question is how far should I pull the front yoke out when installing. Should there be about a 1 inch pullout distance figured into the driveshaft? I want to make sure when I have this thing shortened I do it right. I go to the states on leave next Tuesday and plan on taking it with me to fix.

My drive shaft is too long 20.5 inches center to center 700R4 Stealth yoke. My question is how far should I pull the front yoke out when installing. Should there be about a 1 inch pullout distance figured into the driveshaft? I want to make sure when I have this thing shortened I do it right. I go to the states on leave next Tuesday and plan on taking it with me to fix. Also, did any of you have issues with the clearance in the tunnel in the set back position that interferred with the Tranny cooling Lines? Mine look very tight.

My drive shaft is too long 20.5 inches center to center 700R4 Stealth yoke. My question is how far should I pull the front yoke out when installing. Should there be about a 1 inch pullout distance figured into the driveshaft? I want to make sure when I have this thing shortened I do it right. I go to the states on leave next Tuesday and plan on taking it with me to fix.