Corzette

Thanks! I was scared for a minute! I got it on 3 now down from 5. That might be part of the traction problem. I think 1 or 2 will work better! Thaks again.....

Hey Ive been in Japan for over 15 years total and I love it. It is a single mans dream world at time but the racing seen is serious and they make great cars. Its just crazy expensive over here for parts, that why I like the V8Z so much better. I also have the only one on the Island of Okinawa...I guess Im special...lol. CorZette New Pics on site..

Guys, what setting is the softess on the Tokiko 5 way adjustables? My car rides like a ZED SLED. Dont know which setting is best...

I unstalled a 16 Gal plastic cell on the back of my 240 and it get hot as hell on the underside only. Thats strange but the cell is actually warping because of it. I just ordered the Triangle Aluminum one. Is it OK to mount inside the car as long as it is secure? I will run the vent valve to the outside of coarse. Any input on this or suggestions?

Mark, Ill be back either next year or after 3 more. If I pick up E8 Ill stay another 3 hear.Good money and the wife is a GS-5 with COLA! After that Ill retire. Well things are going pretty good. Did the drive from Kinser to Nago and back for the break in. My fricken tranny is going but I knew it was just a matter of time. Cant race with this one but can drive easily. Still rockets. Funny I have no traction in 1st or second AT ALL! I will be getting my NITTO 555Rs this week or next. 275 50 15s. I hope they work or Im dust. Supposed to be a 450HP build and I would say its damn close. Ill dyno it at techno sports after the new Raptor comes in. $1575 plus $500 for shipping air and customs. Such is life. Next plan is an upgrade to a 413 or 383...dont know yet. That will keep me busy over the next three years! Semper Z Dude! CorZette Hello Grumpy! Hows thew gators there days!

Thanks buddy! Im learning...

Spiirit, you da man....I think your talking about a different forum, like RB26 Turbod Cessnas??? CZ (The guy with the fouled damper)

OK, listen to this. I get my exhaust on, fire it up, it sounds great! Too much gas fumes coming out of the tail pipe (real rich, plugs black. I have the AFR190 heads and was running the AC43TS I think it was with the short threads. I call up the AFR guy and says "NO NO GET THOSE OUT OF THERE". He said to use the ACFR3LS plugs with the longer threads etc. They are discontinued so they cross referenced to NGK BCPR5ES. I went and got some, spaced them at around .042 and put them in. I fired her up and WHOLLA no more fumes, smoke anything and is very smooth now with no hesitation. What a difference the correct plugs make. All you AFR guys may want to check them out because it is a very noticeable difference. Now I just have to make sure my power valve is the right size. My cams duration is 282 so the 6.5 might be a little big. I will do a vaccuum check tomorrow and determine. So far so good@! Tomorrow I drive it to break in the engine for the first time on the highway! I cant sleep tonight! Well just thought I would share that strange experience with everyone..... Oh i have new pics too in new albums!

Guys I just wanted to ask your opinions on this. I want to buy the Proform main body for the 750 Holley DP. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D67100C Is this a valid investment? Also, the link below to save me from buying a million different jets, would this be a good option? Anybody got any input on the quality etc? Im thinking about getting both of these upgrades...please advise. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D55001HOL Exhaust is done and man it sounds sweet! Gonna Dyno in a couple of weeks!

OK I give up...it runs fine so Ill run it till it drops then order a 383 short block and do it right next time. Okinawa sucks majorly...Thanks for everyones patience. Engine runs fine timing marks dont jive...is set at TDC etc....just dont make sense....Im done worrying about it. Ill dyno it and see where were at...

So actually its 180 degrees out then? I would just turn it to TDC with the rotor pointing to #6 and take out and reinstall to #1 right? My TDC is correct however. Man if that the case, this thing is really gonna be a screamer...It burns the tire easily now...how funny

Wow! this could be the problem. I installed dot to dot but it friggin starts and runs pretty good. The only wierd thing is when I take off a vaccuum line it doesnt make much difference and it runs rich but no popping etc. I do have to crank the cap all the way left though. Would an engine run like this? I definately did not turn the crank around one rev before installing the distributor. I hope this is the problem! Crossing my fingers...

Here we go around the mullberry bush...OK still havent fixed my damper timing problem. Heres my question...here is what I read from another board on cam install and timing marks: "Observe the position of the "dots" on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket. If your rotor was pointing at the No. 1 terminal and your timing mark on the balancer was at 0 Deg. TDC, the "dots" BOTH should be at the 12 o'clock position on their respective sprockets. Also note the position of the locating dowel on the cam. Should be at 9 o'clock. We won't be installing the new timing chain yet, of course, but just keep the positions in mind or you'll be in for some trouble later. :)" With that said, here is how mine was done....I had the crank set at TDC (with Heads Off) and the crank dowel was pointing at 2 OClock with the dot on the crank sprocket at 12 OClock. My cam sprocket dot was at 6 OClock so the two lined up together . The cam dowel pin was at 3 OClock. The pointer was sitting at ZERO TDC. I put in my distributor at this setting and the rotor is pointing toward the #1 spark plug. This is not what the above post says but did I do it right? This could be the problem but it doesnt backfire or anything at the moment.....Grumpy are you tracking this? Corzette

Can you tell me how you hooked up your sender and gauge and what gauge you have etc. Mine will not work. I have the same cell as you. Thanks in advance! The car looks awesome! CorZette

Spiirit, by the way I got the Damper from Summit. Its the FLUID Street Damper 6 3/4 style part# FLU-716242. The cam is a retro fit roller assembly. CZ

Spiirit, Wow, this is getting exciting since we are getting closer. OK I have to admit I am a DUMB###. I did do everything EXCEPT...let me get this straight one more time.... I remove my distributor, find TDC #1 Exhaust valve, turn the crank to set at lets say 16 degrees advanced. OK here is the big question...with my crank setting at 16 degrees advance (static timing), I would then insert the distributor gear with rotor pointing at the #1 plug correct? If thats so then theres another 16 degrees.....because..... I initially set the distributor with the crank on zero. OK if I have an 8 degree correction on the damper and 16 degree on the initial timing setting, then that would be could be a total of 24 degrees off. 40 or so minus 24 is (DRUM ROLL) 16 total degees! I can then adjust from there right? Man I hope this is the right theory. Your move!

Thanks for all the help. I have just read that this new damper as compared to the old is set differently. about 8 degrees different. I just order the timing tape for this thing so I can see what is truely going on. If it doesnt check out then, I guess I have to drop the pan/cover and degree the cam. The marks were lined up just right however, so maybe the cam grind was out of whack....it sucks hard being in Japan without knowledgable V8 mechanics. I would rather pay someone to fix this and just drive it home. I can do 80% of anything needed but this wrench in the gear takes the cake....Im tired!!! At any rate the exhuast goes on Friday and it does burn the tires off like is so I will do my proper break in and hope nothing breaks out! Hey Im upgrading to a 383 new block when I get home anyway so I just need this thing to last alittle longer....

Spiirit, OK we checked TDC and it came out just right. The mark was the same as I had set it initially. The rotor points to the #1 plug wire as well. The car also starts right up. The timing marks are still like 50. If i rotate either way too much it will die. Again I have changed from an 8 inch Damper to a 6 3/4. Could this thing be the problem? Im going nuts but it seems to run fine. I advanced it until the starter started working to turn it over and then backed it down a bit. Now it will start right up and rev etc without back firing or anything. We are baffled...what else could it be? The drive gear on the distributor vs cam would not make a degree difference would it? I was told it was all compatible when I bought it. Your move ole wise one.....

Spiirit, OK we checked TDC and it came out just right. The mark was the same as I had set it initially. The rotor points to the #1 piston as well. The car also starts right up. The timing marks are still like 50. If i rotate either way too much it will die. Again I have changed from an 8 inch Damper to a 6 3/4. Could this thing be the problem? Im going nuts but it seems to run fine. I advanced it until the starter started working to turn it over and then backed it down a bit. Now it will start right up and rev etc without back firing or anything. We are baffled...what else could it be? The drive gear on the distributor vs cam would not make a degree difference would it? I was told it was all compatible when I bought it. Your move ole wise one.....

Spriit, thanks! I am finding true TDC again tonight via Grumpys advice and will do what you have said! Wish me luck...I will post in a day or so with the results....

During assembly, I put my thumb on the first spark plug hole...I turned the engine over by hand until the timing mark landed on zero. The pressure would blow my thumb off the hole so I knew it was the compression stroke. I then put in the distributor so that the rotor would point towards the #1 plug. Thats it, however when I start it I have to twist it counter clockwise to get it to run it best. Maybe I put the distributor in too far right of the #1 plug? Must Have More Advise....Id hate to drop the pan etc and find the timing gear are OK. Does that help?

Grumpy, TDC checks out. What if I put the distributor in 1 tooth off past the number 1 spark plug setting? Should the rotor actually point just before the #1 plug or towards the #1 piston? Maybe I have it seated a little off? Could that be the problem? Wouldnt hurt to check I guess..... CZ

Thanks guys...this is the damdest thing. I do have it at top dead center and the arrow points to zero. The car starts fine etc but the marks are not lining up when running. More to come I guess...

I used a 6 3/4 damper for my set back conversion. I used to have the 8 inch damper. Well my car runs fine but when I shoot the timing the marks say like 50 degrees advanced? If I turn it back much it will die. Is there any difference in the timing marks on a smaller damper? If I were 180 out would it still run and show the marks like that? Can any one offer some advice? Thanks in advance. CZ

Here it goes...I have the Summit Pro Street Cell with 0-90 GM Tube sender. I have the AutoMeter Gauge. The gauge has plus, minus and signal. The cell only has two wires. I know one is signal but is the other ground or hot? I hook it up many ways but it doesnt work. The needle stays pegged when I put the power to the gauge. Anyone have this happen before? HELP!!!