Corzette

Roger that! Thanks for the advice. Well I guess I will go a little thicker strap of steel and work that out. My straps are on my site. Let me know what you think about those. The straps were only 1mm galvanized metal however. Ill try a 3 or 4mm strap out of aluminized steel. Thanks for the post! CZ

Well, I went down and made a run on my 240 and freaked everyone out!!!! I was stoked to see the results as well. My build is a 450HP crank build and I expected no more than 340 from the rear. I dynoed a whopping 380 HP from the rear wheels!!!!! I am so happy. The car tried to jump off the roller once and fire shot out the rear when it was coming down...too cool. Everyone at the shop started asking me where the turbo was hiding! I told them it N/A. Then they started asking me what the names and makes of all my parts were....too funny. Needlesss to say I caught thier attention. Remember the SBC 350 is an import over here in Okinawa. I had a great day but I also snapped both steel straps I made to hold the diff down to the cross member. Now I have to fix it before I can get on it. I an just gonna buy the solid diff mount from MSA and forget about it. I will put the dyno sheet on my site. It sucks because they dont show a gradual curve. They only show max HP at the RPM obtained and the torque at the max hp. Its exciting that I made 435 Newton Meters (325 torque) at 6120 at the wheels! According to Afr it really close. They had 375 crank torque at 6000 listed. All the turboed car are running way less torque even though some of them are hitting the same HP or more with heavier cars. The calculator says I should run low 11s! I hope so. My Z is 2410 now without me and 2600 with. What a good day it was today! Now I gotta show up at the next Japan HKS meet in December!!!!! Thanks for reading!

OK I just got back from the HKS drag comp here in Okinawa Japan. I saw a S30 Z with the SR20 DET swap. It looked nice. You can see it on my site under "CAR SHOW". It had a huge Turbo on it and ran a 7.1 sec in the 150 meters. Track too short for a full 1/8th. That is 487.5 feet. I wonder what that equates to in the 8th and 1/4? HorsePower? I dont know the trap speed. It was decent. The fastest car was a 5.3 sec run. There was so many skyline GTRs with the same ole RB setup out there it was not even amuzing. Dont get me wrong, I like the RB26 Turbo setup in a Z, but DAMN everyone basically had the same ole thing. 80% of the people had the same car and engine. Just goes to show you that theres not much flexibility over here. If they could only understand what being original meant. Besides the SR20 DET Z, I would have been the talk of the show regardless of the times I would have run. Theres nothing like the sound of a V8 open headers running down the track. According to similiar horsepower and weight consideration, I expect that my Z will run a 6.2 or so at this track. I will run in Dec at the next meet after I get it tuned and replace the tranny etc. I have to run in the open class because I will be the only V8 there! What a fricken RUSH that will be. As far as I see it, I will beat 80% of the cars there as ther were only about 5 or so in the 5 sec range and maybe 10 in the 6 sec range. The majority were i the 7s to 9s. The Rotaries were impressive but not that impressive considering the money being dumped into these projects. A nicely setup V8 non Turbo with LSD could have easily been the star of the show here today. We all know hooking up isnt a problem if its built right. I am talking about a 1/4 track car for this event only. Slalom builds are another story. More later! CorZette _________________

OK I just got back from the HKS drag comp here in Okinawa Japan. I saw a S30 Z with the SR20 DET swap. It looked nice. You can see it on my site under "CAR SHOW". It had a huge Turbo on it and ran a 7.1 sec in the 150 meters. Track too short for a full 1/8th. That is 487.5 feet. I wonder what that equates to in the 8th and 1/4? HorsePower? I dont know the trap speed. It was decent. The fastest car was a 5.3 sec run. There was so many skyline GTRs with the same ole RB setup out there it was not even amuzing. Dont get me wrong, I like the RB26 Turbo setup in a Z, but DAMN everyone basically had the same ole thing. 80% of the people had the same car and engine. Just goes to show you that theres not much flexibility over here. If they could only understand what being original meant. Besides the SR20 DET Z, I would have been the talk of the show regardless of the times I would have run. Theres nothing like the sound of a V8 open headers running down the track. According to similiar horsepower and weight consideration, I expect that my Z will run a 6.2 or so at this track. I will run in Dec at the next meet after I get it tuned and replace the tranny etc. I have to run in the open class because I will be the only V8 there! What a fricken RUSH that will be. As far as I see it, I will beat 80% of the cars there as ther were only about 5 or so in the 5 sec range and maybe 10 in the 6 sec range. The majority were i the 7s to 9s. The Rotaries were impressive but not that impressive considering the money being dumped into these projects. A nicely setup V8 non Turbo with LSD could have easily been the star of the show here today. We all know hooking up isnt a problem if its built right. I am talking about a 1/4 track car for this event only. Slalom builds are another story. More later! CorZette

Yep...

Yeah....tell me about it..

ZFAN, I got the HP 750DP classic. The guys told me it was 70 primary and 80 secondary. It runs a little rich so I was thinking about putting in 76s on the secondaries to start. Maybe 68s on the front afterwrds. My power valve should be a 4.5 or so since I only get 5 hgs of vaccuum in gear. I have the XE282HR Cam 12-432-8 and love it so far.. retrofit. 8) Corzette

Thanks Mike. I just wanted to make sure I didnt lose any HP by using it. Yeah I can still close the hood. Thanks..

I have the AFR190 heads and intake. What I have noticed is that I MUST run a 1 inch spacer to get the carb to fit without hitting the PCV hose coming out of the intake. Is it OK to run filter on both Valve covers and let it vent naturally without worrying about internal pressure build up? I would then have to run my vaccuum for the brake line straight off my carb instead. Is that OK and has anyone had to do that? First time I have seen an intake like this. Any advice?

Guys heres the pic of my MSD Distributor gear. Grumpy I understand the mod you told me about filing the groove on the shaft just above the gear for better oiling. If you look at the left Mallory the file place is one solid area (not a problem). The right MSD shaft has a break in between the lower area to be filed. This is for fitting an O-Ring for modified blocks that can accept this. My question is do I file both areas at the bottom on the MSD one? The lower area above the gear and the next small area just above where the O-Ring would go? Thanks in advance....

There be NITTOS on my Z....looks awesome. 275 50 15s Now just to get that Bronze gear installed....

So what do you guys think of this for quick jet tuning? Is this legit? I want it! http://shop.store.yahoo.com/gofast/carsolunbloc.html

Thanks Mike!

You drive a hard bargain.....let me think about it,,,

By the way, would a larger gap make the plug hotter or colder? Whick is best....Class PlugGap101 for you college guys...

I know there are a few AFR guys here and I was wondering where to set my GAP on my plugs? I have the MSD Distributor and Blaster Coil running the AFR190 Aluminum heads. What gap would be the best to run? Mine are currently at .042. I saw it written to start at .050 to .060. Is this true since we have a bigger better spark? Adice please...ZFAN, you out there? Corzette, the trouble maker from Asia...lol

Spiirit, lol...were way past that. The distributor lasted about a month before it went. The dist gear is made of cast iron and the cam gear is billet steel. When I pulled it out there was planty of oil on the gear itself. I am making Grumpys mod though before reinstalling. I know, one thing after another...I am in the process of ordering a new 383 short block with everything already done. Im also getting a new Tranny ...I actually need one. Maybe in about 6 months itll be done and Ill have some parts to sell! I should have done it right the first time but then theres the fact I AM IN STINKIN OKINAWA! I had to order fricken Oil Filters from the states! Just another day in the hood...will you be my friend? Peace my Hybrid Brothers....

Race Tech article: Ne w-age Carb Spacers A couple of years ago, I wrote a column on carburetor spacers in which I discussed how spacers worked, how they can be used to tune a given combination, and what materials are used in spacer construction. From my experience and from what most racers already know, there usually isn't much power in a spacer. Oh, you might find a horsepower or two in some cases, and you can move the power band around a bit and help distribution in other cases, but for the most part, there isn't much extra grunt available from a spacer, or is there? Fast forward a few months to the 1999 PRI Show. Joe Petelle of HVH was manning a little piece of a booth shared with his pals from Porta-Tree. The folks in the booth handed me a one-inch-tall carb spacer with the simple words "Try it." Joe Petelle and his son, Keith, own HVH, or High Velocity Heads. HVH may not be well known in drag racing, but it's another story in Winston Cup, where they ported heads and manifolds for Chevy and Ford teams from 1980 to 1992. In addition, HVH designed a series of intake manifolds for Brodix and created the layout for the Canfield big-block Chevrolet head. Currently, they primarily build carb spacers, but they also do limited amounts of custom work for short-track applications and drag race cars (yes, they work on NHRA Stockers, iron heads, and basically anything that flows air). The HVH Super Sucker that I picked up at the PRI Show languished on my desk for months before it was moved to my work bench, where it languished for many more months. Finally, I slipped it into my camera bag on a trip to Speed Way Testing in Richmond, B.C. While talking to John Heida of Speed Way Testing about his SF901 Dyno installation (a rather nice installation, by the way), I opened my camera bag and tossed the spacer to John with the simple instructions "Try it." Heida knows his way around cylinder-head and manifold flow, and we scrutinized the Super Sucker. Sure, it was made from a very composite material, and it was a one-inch-tall version. And, yes, the top side (carburetor mount side) looked like any other four-hole spacer for a standard Holley flange. But the bottom (intake manifold side) was far different than anything we had seen before. I think independently we came up with the same assessment: It's different, but it's a carb spacer. It might be worth a horsepower or two. It's probably nothing more than a tuning aid. Nothing more came from all this until a few days ago, when the fax machine in my office began spewing paper. Out came a couple of dyno-pull results from Speed Way Testing. The results from those tests were remarkable. The engine in question was a relatively mild 355-cid small-block Chevy with a set of small-valve heads that Heida had reworked. If you check the engine's volumetric efficiency against the brake specific, you'll find that the engine is a pretty efficient piece. Data was corrected for 29.92 inches Hg, 60-degree F dry air. The tests were done in a conventional A-B-A format (for the sake of simplicity, I haven't included the final backup test; it matches the first test exactly). Here are the baseline test results: rpm torque horsepower 5,000 402.8 383.5 5,100 401.8 390.2 5,200 397.3 393.4 5,300 400.6 404.3 5,400 393.7 404.8 5,500 390.0 408.4 5,600 386.2 411.8 5,700 380.6 413.1 5,800 375.6 414.8 5,900 376.2 422.6 6,000 370.7 423.5 6,100 366.4 425.6 6,200 362.8 428.3 6,300 359.3 431.0 6,400 352.8 429.9 6,500 349.4 432.4 Peak in baseline configuration was 432.4 horsepower at 6,500 rpm. Maximum torque was 402.8 foot-pounds at 5,000 rpm. The second test duplicated the first with only the one-inch-tall HVH Super Sucker carburetor spacer added. Results follow: rpm torque horsepower 5,000 413.2 393.4 5,100 405.3 393.6 5,200 398.8 394.9 5,300 402.1 405.8 5,400 396.9 408.1 5,500 390.4 408.8 5,600 387.2 412.9 5,700 379.8 412.2 5,800 377.1 416.4 5,900 378.6 425.3 6,000 372.6 425.7 6,100 370.9 430.8 6,200 369.0 435.6 6,300 367.3 440.6 6,400 367.1 447.3 6,500 353.7 437.7 As you can see, the small-block peaked at 447.3 horsepower at 6,400 rpm, and the maximum torque of 413.2 foot-pounds occurred at 5,000 rpm. In comparing peaks, the Super Sucker added 14.9 horsepower and 10.4 foot-pounds of torque (again at peak). There go the assumptions. In theory, the two-inch model should have made even more power. So how in the world does this thing work? I asked that of Keith Petelle of High Velocity Heads. He said, "These spacers work, obviously, by helping the fuel distribution. If you look at the bottom of the spacer, you'll see that the shape is different [in comparison to other spacers]. We wanted to improve the feeding of the outside runners on a single four-barrel manifold. The design picks up the air speed and gives it a specific direction. Finally, the plastic composite material insulates the carburetor. Plenty of people are skeptical. Many people will think that if they spend big money on a hand-fabricated intake manifold, they don't need a spacer. We've had some racers with very powerful engines see major gains. We've had some used on Comp engines. The spacers don't discriminate between expensive, high-horsepower engines and low-cost, low-horsepower engines. They work equally well on either small-displacement engines or big ones. We typically see power increases in the range you found. We've seen more, but it really does depend on the engine and the type of manifold used." Currently, HVH spacers are made from solid plastic composite stock on Haas CNC mill equipment. The company offers one-inch- and two-inch-tall four-hole spacers for 4150 Holley carburetors, one-inch- and two-inch-tall four-hole spacers for Holley Dominator carburetors, open one-inch-tall spacers for Holley 4412 carburetors, and one-inch-tall two-hole spacers for Holley 4412 carburetors. The spacers aren't cheap at a price range between $85 and $105 (racer's net), but they do provide cheap power, and in a well-sorted engine, 15 horsepower for 85 bucks can be considered a bargain. My preconceived notions were definitely wrong: There is power to be gained from a carb spacer, but it takes a special configuration like the one used on the Super Sucker to make it happen.

I would if the stub axles were the GM sized to prevent breakage.

Yeah those things are strong as hell...just dont them too close to the crank or may freeze up....lol! By the way I had to order my oil Filter PH5 from the states because they told me here in Okinawa that they dont make them...oh brother! I hate this place....no wonder everyone over here spends thousands on the blender engines...at least they can get what they want....thank goodness for the Turbo.... JK

Grumpy thanks! I did already take your advice and put 4 magnets in my pan. Those damn things just about cut my finger in half trying to seperate them during install..lol. Should I drop my pan or just drain the oil and change filter?

Thanks Grumpy. Im learning all the time. How hard is it change the shaft gear? My pin goes all the way through with holes on both sides (MSD Pro Billet) After I punch out the pin. do I need a press the get the gear off?

This is what I found... RETRO-FIT ROLLER CAMS... Install For those of you considering installing a "retro-fit" roller cam in your engine, be it a 302 or a 350... BE ADVISED... many cam manufacturers require the use of a "BRONZE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR" which in turn would require replacement of the gear frequently when used for everyday "street" use. S O M E cam manufacturers have already addressed this problem and are offering a retro-fit cam for these popular engines with an iron or steel gear that of course would NOT require frequent changing. Check with your manufacturer or call their tech line before making a purchase of a retro-fit cam to insure you are not buying a cam which would eventually lead to a high maintenance situation. Factory HR cams are made from a dedicated core that is the same material as a regular hydraulic cam. Comp Cams decided to use their readily available steel billet core, which has the appearance of a solid roller cam. This means you'll need to install a bronze distributor gear, which is no big deal. Two different inner diameter bronze gears are available, so measure your shaft diameter before ordering. This gear is mandantory for billet cams as billet steel will simply chew up a standard drive gear." From the net.....Man Im pissed. Summit told me this would work fine...don't listen to the summit guys...do your home work. Learn from my mistakes (and I have had many)....

Well guys one thing after another. I may have found out why my timing marks were so far off and still running. I am tuning my engine tonight and all of the sudden there was a loud sound that came from the engine...sorta sounded like someone dropping a bunch of change or something. Then the engine died. Would nt start up. Rockers were good and turned over but nothing. I tried to get the distributor out but it was stuck. I finally got it out and ALL the teeth on the drive gear are dust@!*&^%. I am sure my can gear is shot too. Damn...does anyone know what could cause this? I was running the MSD billet distributor Part#85551 with the Comp Cams 12-432-8 EX282 HR Retrofit. They told me it would work fine. Were they wrong? Theres something I read about a bronze gear etc...does this apply? I want MSD again so what do you guys recommend? Grumpy have you ever had this happen? What are your wise words of wisdom? I guess I have to tear it down underneath and put in new cam and distributor. Please advise! Damn Okinawa sucks!!!!lol. No support. CZ

Grumpy what single plane intake would you suggest for my build? I run the numbers on DD2000 and I get 35 more HP at 6000 and 13 more Torque at 4500RPMS by using a single plane vice dual plane. Also ofcoarse running open exhaust I get even more. I just want to play with the intake at this point so here are the numbers Im running: 350SBC .040 over 12-432-8 Comp Cams HD Small Tube Headers with DynoMax Mufflers 750DP 04779C AFR190 Heads Dual Plane AFR match ported intake I get 435HP at 6000 and 433TQ at 4500 Dual Plane with mufflers I get 470HP at 6000 and 446TQ at 4500 Single Plane with mufflers I get 460HP at 6000 and 451TQ at 4500 Dual Plane with out mufflers I get 493HP at 6000 and 465TQ at 4500 Single Plane with out mufflers Do you think the single plane would work better since the car is light and I would have better top end? If so what do you suggest? Victor Junior? CZ