jacob80

Hey guys, Having a little trouble, feeling kind of dumb about it. While reassembling my front axle I decided I would top off the grease in the rack in pinion. Assuming that the little bolt in the rack and pinion casing is where you fill it with grease, I removed that and put a grease zerk in its place, filled it with grease until it wouldn't accept anymore and put the bolt back in. Testing the steering, I realize too much grease is in the boots. So I remove some and upon turning the steering, it is as though the air in the boots cannot escape nor can it get any. This results in the boot pushing itself out of position and grease escaping. My question is, have I damaged something? Do I need to pull it apart and rebuild it or is there a quick fix here? Any help here would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!!!!

Hey guys, Does anyone or has enyone had trouble treading up their rotor to buh bolts? I'm playing hell trying to get them to thread up. Thanks

Ok guys, Soon I'm going to attempt to lock in my physical timing. Before I explain my proposed procedure, I do have a question. We have a performance products pulley and it has multiple tick marks. In addition to these tick marks, there is the timing tab that has the tick marks that max out at 30 degrees BTDC (correct me if I'm wrong) therfore introducing two variables. Shouldn't thereo only be one timing mark on the pulley? Which timing mark on the pulley represents TDC per say? Ok anyways, here is my procedure: 1. Turn engine back to ~50 degrees BTDC 2. Loosen distributor and lock it down when light comes on 3. Crank engine and see if timing light/timing tab/pulley marks agree with cranking value in megasquirt. 4. If they don't agree, adjust the timing inside MegatuneSS until its right. Ok so does this sound right? Once I confirm the timing on the pulley and the computer agree, i don't have to mess with anything else other than the computer settings correct? Thanks guys

Hey guys, Just wondering if you could walk me through timing the motor. I'm going by mobys write up and assuming the most advance i'll need is 45 degrees, not sure how to expect this number but i'll go with it, play 5 degrees of trigger so 50 degrees. To my understanding, I set the motor to TDC, then crank it back 50 degrees. Then, I'll turn the distributor until the ignition light on the ECU lights up and lock it down. Now I am assuming I won't have to touch the disctirbutor at all from here correct? Ok so next, somehow I have to make sure/sync the computer with the timing tab using a timing lights and when they match at idle its done then, correct? Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm slowly but surely leaning all this. Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated. MS1 V3.0 Stock oil pan to valve cover Stock turbo Front Mount 42 lb 440cc bosch injectors

You = awesome, thank you so much!!!

No the transverse link is in the front suspension, it goes from the body/front crossmember to the lower ball joint. If you could just look you could see what I mean. Its offset to either the front or the back of the car, I just don't remember cause I didn't look before taking it off doh

Hey, just wondering if the roller is available for loan. If so, I'd like to use it. Thank you!!

Hey guys, I'm putting together my front suspension curently and I have lost the instructions for the measeurements on where to weld the collars on the front strut tubes. If anyone has the ground control coilover instructions if you could post them up or scan them that would be much appreciated. Thanks again! Jacob

Anyone?....

Hey guys, Simple question here. Just removed my stock bushing in the transverse link and putting the new energy suspension bushings in, I noticed that the transverse link is offset to one side by the bushing sleeve. I did not notice this before I took the bushings out so here is my question. Does anyone know if the transverse links are more towards the back of the car or the front. I'm sure those of you who have experience with the suspension know exactly what I'm talking about. If you guys could help me it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!

Thats another no no, ha ha, you can't just cap it off either you must actually have a regulator that rises 1:1 ratio with boost, such as the aeromotive A1000 Fuel Injected bypass regulator.

Well I just think people dont think of the possibility of rust before they plop a battery down on a bare battery tray. This is just a lesson learned that you should never half ass anything!

I too had a lot of trouble finding these fittings, they're basically a big banjo fitting that isn't used on anything on the earth currently. I had to call 5 different places that eventually linked me to the place I needed and the fitting were $50 each!!! GRR! My advice would be to just use a differnt sandwich plate and get a different oil cooler imo.

Yeah thats it, fiber glass, I'm sure of it. Funny thing is there is rust almost identical to this side on the passenger side....must have been done when the new quarters were installed...ugh...morons I tell ya

Ok, posting up some pictures of my rear quarter inner fender liner. Look at how this was done. When we bought the car, it had new quarters installed but is this how the inner liner and quarter panel came together? A heavy piece of tape? Cause obviously rust has begun...

Needle scaler and a scaper for stuff that was too hard. I'm telling you, if you are even considering removing your undercoating, go down to harbor freight and get a needle scaler, no question about it!

Hey guys, Just thought I'd let you guys know my most recent project. I've been removing the rust trap aka undercoating off the front wheel wells of my car. Here are some pics before por-15 and after, enjoy!

Its an oil temperature sensor I believe, correct me if I'm wrong.

I've never used RTV on anything cause I've been told to stay away from it. Is there problems that arise with using RTV as a sealant? Just trying to straighten things out here

Hey guys, For those of you with the performance products pulley, do you have trouble with the timing marks? Due to the factory pulley being so wide, it is much easier to set the timing but with the performance products pulley so narrow, its hard to tell. Does anyone have a solution for this? We've been having an awful lot of trouble with our timing. Thanks guys!!!

So use oil on gaskets where the gasket will be sealing oil? Such as the oil pan? I have never heard of this, and grease on water gaskets?

We have a single 14" electric fan running on our MSA aluminum radiator. I'm not jumping to the conclusion that our headgasket is bad but what I did notice is that after we adjusted our oil pump drive shaft is when the engine started overheating so as of now that is what I am suspecting BUT I just can't seem to get it in the right position, either its one tooth too much forward or one tooth too far behind.

Hey guys, Well we have just rebuild our L28ET and right off the bat, the turbo drain flange gasket is leaking. As far as gaskets, how do you properly install a gasket? Do you use sealant on oil gaskets or nothing at all? Do you use sealant on water gaskets or none at all? This has always been kind of a gray area to me so if anyone could give me some insight on this that would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

Oh, and by the way, we have had a LOT of trouble with our oil pump/distributor shaft. This could cause overheating correct?

I wouldn't use a rising rate regulator, thats a no no with megasquirt, I've learned that the hard way