dhp123166

Here are some pix of the rod mounts for the front suspension.

Here are my cheap mod pictures ( I hope ) as attachments. It works, yay I learned a new trick!!!! Cell phone cam, thems the breaks...

I'll try to do it in the next day or so...

Hello, I made front suspension triangulation bars using helicopter rods with titanium rod ends ($15.00 each aircraft surplus). I have the bolt in strut bar from MSA. With rudimentary metal work I fabricated mounts to go from the strut bar to the front of the fire wall (actually the metal where the hood latches to.) These worked so well I bought two more rods and did the same thing to go from the strut bar to the top of the sway bar at the rail. Total cost for rods and hardware; $70.00 tops... A few years back I wanted clear front signal markers, this was before MSA and whomever were offering them retail. I fabricated some out of other vehicles back up light covers which are clear. This worked okay, but I wanted a real replacement. At the pick a part one day, I discovered that the one piece housing from the back up lights of a 1980's era Ford Escort station wagon will fit right into the stock metal bracket of my Z. I just drilled holes in the back for the stock light bulb harness to fit in, mounted the housing and was in business. I think it I paid like $10.00 for the pair. I am probably restating the obvious but going to the parts yard should be like a weekly excursion to Mecca...

1976 280Z stock fuel injection, Cygnus X1 was right on the money...

I thought it was my imagination because I just switched from a 180 to a 160 and have seen my fuel guage move faster than normal...

Hello, What does conventional wisdom say, (if anything) about the relation between radiator thermostat temperature and an increase/ decrease in m.p.g.? I searched for this topic and did not find anything.

You could always do it the old school way where you cut the fenders in a line parallel with the outer wheel well line, extend the fender and fill in the gap with sheet metal...

I have had the MSA fiberglass flares for about 8 years now. I have one or two areas of separation that I have to deal with. I didn't do the body work. Victoria British Z carries metal flares. Had I known about them I would have purchased them. Do yourself a favor and do it the right way; metal to metal. It's why I don't have a front spoiler or airdam or body kit... "Plastic always breaks."

The picture that Six Shooter posted is ( I believe ) the Autoloc trunk kit. It is what I used, but with a few modifications. I did not use the stock bracket, I rigged one so the solenoid mounts parallel with the hatch. I made a "u" shaped bracket which mounts to the inside of the hatch and the solenoid sits inside the bracket. I took the stock latch out and drilled a hole in the part opposite the stock "key pusher". It was a while back so I don't remember exactly but if you take yours out you will see what I mean. Basically you want a place for the solenoid cable to anchor on the stock mechanism so it will pull it when actuated. I attached a piece of thick cable to this point and rehung the stock striker. The next move was to attach the solenoid cable to the striker cable to find the right pressure. It took a little jimmying around to find the right pressure, but this I adjusted with differing anchor points on the cable. The only maintenance is I just keep it lubed with Triflow and I have had years of trouble free functioning.

The engine was a Nissan SD 33 T...

International Harvester '80 came with a Nissan built L6 turbodiesel powerplant. How sweet would it be to drop this into a Z car, boost the heck out of it, and run it on biodiesel? I wish I had some money...

That should read "in the classifieds of HybridZ"

I'm still kicking myself for not purchasing that NEW 1983 5 speed that was advertised on the classified six months back...

The thing is I totally baby my tranny after learning that I do not want to be paying for frigging rebuilds. I really don't feel like doing it myself either and as my Z is my daily driver it would not be practical. I have payed top dollar for rebuilds and it never fails that within six months, something malfuctions. Yes there is a warranty so I should be thankful for that. It just seems that I had more luck when I was ignorant and gambling on used or silver spraypainted "rebuilds"... Hurrah for lifes little ironies...

"racing yellow"

I was basically asking for opinions (note plural of the noun) concerning peoples experience with standard transmissions on the L-28.

Are 240/260/280/z/x transmissions really that hard to rebuild or more prone to failure than average? Are most transmission rebuilders competent or was Frank Zappa right when he said ; "Mediocrity is the standard of excellence in America" If I want something done right do I have to do it myself?

I just replaced my worn out stock diff. mount with... A brand new stock diff mount. I had ordered a solid steel mount but cancelled it when after doing research and ascertaining that a solid steel one might be too noisy and as I have already lost the upper registers of my hearing range extra noise is something I would like to avoid. The weak point in the mount is the rubber which when it is new is not a problem, it is only after a long time of degradation that it fails, and really after normal driving how often do these things fail due to that? Every decade or so, if that? I guess it depends what kind of driving one is doing, 'cause like they say; "If you are not breaking anything you are not trying hard enough..." ______________________________________________________________ '76 280 Z-daily driver "Sometimes stock is good enough"

Sweet

I am in the Socal area. I had a card from this wheel repair service, they might have been called Dingmasters or Wheelmasters. They fix your curb rash right on the vehicle. Anyone use this service or have contact info??

Anyone see the new BMW Z4 hardtops (not the convertible)? They look like somewhat of an update of the 240/260/280 coupe concept. It's especially poetic because it is designed by BMW...

I guess the solution falls into one of three categories; the right way, the wrong way, or the easy way. I have had similiar issues with lighting at the rear through no fault of the wiring. I "customized" my lights, in other words I ended up messing up a perfectly functional system. Anyway I ended up rewiring at the bulbs and it is messing looking but it works. I guess that would qualify for the easy way...

I think it was one of the bushings on the outside of the rear control arm. I don't remember too well, I'm reaching...

1976 280z