dhp123166

Just buy a Koenigsegg and and get it right the first time...

So I have a '76 280 with the large mouth gas tank filler... The locking gas cap for these was discontinued sometime in the 90's. Maybe they make them now but I have no idea. I chanced upon one from Motorsport but it broke a few years back. So this is what I came up with; A swiveling lock hasp (3.99 or so). A cylinder lock with changeable combo ( 4.99 or so). Some metal work to the OEM gas cap (time and drillbit). It works fine and as an extra added bonus on the inside of the OEM gas cap there is a little hole where the stock hanging chain used to reside. I removed the chain and it is a perfect place for a hide-a-key (.59 keyring). This whole set up works great and it is hidden by the filler cover but for some people that is still not good enough but then they are probably not looking at this thread anyway. Has nothing to do with me...

Urethane endlink bushings are a great upgrade. Urethane frays less than rubber and is more durable. Over time and under pressure, urethane shrinks and loses its' spring. Instead of purchasing a new set which can run up to $25.00 for each sway bar, I just put a metal spacer between the nut and the top washer so I can get more torque out of the assembly. There is no danger of overtorquing because of the bolts threads stopping where they stop and the metal tube which acts as a spacer. I am applying extra pressure to the urethane and that is what it was made for. The hardware is grade 8 so it can take the abuse as well... Next; My homemade locking gas cap...

That is an awesome video!!! What a great helper, I never knew about rust electrolysis before... Thanks!!!

I have had that problem intermittently, but I guess not as severe because sometimes it would fix itself or if I turned the brights on then the low beams would then work. I checked and/ or replaced the headlight stalk/ switch, fusible link and headlight connections and haven't had it happen lately...

Hunting down rust and killing it should be a priority. It's not pretty or glamorous but it will save your car. But you already knew that...

Some kind of closed cell foam cut to 1/8"... It's really easy to do, just a little time consuming...

It was cheap and "easy". Also it is easily replacable if I want to go with another material...

I am using 1/8" foam skins that I picked up free from a foam supplier. They are the ends of the huge roll that they shave off and usually discard. I took the stock vinyl and foam off and filled all holes and cracks with Bondo. I painted the metal so the foam will only cover the cardboard/ masonite. I am about to glue using some Loctite spray adhesive. To remount I am not using those lame plastic rivets. Since it is so light I am mounting it with "Extreme Velcro". Instead of the felt widow strip I am using foam weatherstripping. Total cost for both doors; $25.00 P.S.; The foam is easy to work with, durable and forgiving...

Those rods are awesome!! What do they say? Refurbish, reuse, recycle? I am doing my part to be green!!!

Urethane bushings used on skateboard trucks will work on sway bar endlinks. They are cheaper than aftermarket and available in different durometers...

I passed along an idea and some rudimentary pix so go fab one yourself or buy something off the shelf, or is that not enough spoonfeeding for you? lol

Here are thumbnails of my "free" 4 point seat harness...

I will post pictures of my seatbelt set up pretty soon...

New cars suck because they have too much plastic in their design...

I am considering painting the cardboard under the vinyl (removing it first obviously). I was thinking of using some of that there textured paint. It's either that or recover them in black flexible foam, which is tough, forgiving and easy to work with...

I made a 4 point harness utilizing the stock passenger seat belt. I have the SCCA roll bar and I fabbed a set of bars which bolt from the top of the bar to the rear of the pan. I took out the passenger seat belt and "striker" (word?). I removed the lap belt and all that I was left with was a belt on a roller with the stock mount. I drilled a hole in the harness hoop which sits behind the seat attached to the rollbar. Then I drilled a hole in one of my fabbed pan bars. The stock seatbelt mount bolts right to these. For the striker, I cut into the rail by the door and bolted it through this hole. So, in effect it is an extra belt which is not mandatory to use at all times. Oh and the best part is, since they are both stock, they are fully retractable...

I guess you're right and I heard that the steering wheel shape is particularly difficult to craft... Still, I imagine that there would be a large sales demographic for someone who could bring one to market for a competitive price...

"A piece of crap..."

Merde alors...

What a ripoff...

I searched the forums and didn't find anything, so here goes... Does anyone make an aftermarket carbon fiber steering wheel (not the fake that Grant makes)?

I turned my spare tire enclosure into a bass box. I just cut a piece of masonite in the same diameter, mounted the speaker on it and bolted it to the enclosure. I filled the enclosure with cotton batting and also sealed the seam with silicone RTV...

Bonjour, Okay I'll stop with the fractured french. You sound like you' re having a devil of a time. This is just a suggestion but if you are fixing/ replacing fuel injectors do yourself a favor and replace all of them with OEM Nissan (I guess Bosch) injectors. Yeah it's expensive but they last and the cheap ones fail prematurely. I guess it's like the sign on some mechanics' shops wall says, "Fix it right once and cry once, or fix it wrong and keep crying." Something like that I guess.. A bientot!!!

I'll keep my 180, thanks for the knowledge though...